Every year as we start to bring in fresh trees in the fall we hear requests for any and every kind of tree. Unfortunately for us, the cold winters here don’t allow for just any tree to be dug and replanted in the fall. It is a great time to plant trees that have previously been dug and given time to recover in our yard. However, it can be dangerous to dig certain trees late in the year depending on the growth habits of the species and other environmental factors. There are many trees we try our best to avoid digging in the fall to protect ourselves and our customers from finding dead trees in the spring when everything else is nice and green.

Most trees go into dormancy in the fall, entering a state where metabolic processes slow down so they can survive the winter. Digging trees in early spring while they are still dormant minimizes the stress caused by cutting its roots and transplanting it. The root system is preserved more effectively, allowing the tree to recover quickly once replanted. As it warms up in spring, they break dormancy and start putting on new growth which is ideal timing for reestablishing the root system after being dug. Trees dug in spring also have the advantage of cooler but warming temperatures and higher moisture. This combination reduces how much water the tree is losing and provides ideal conditions for recovery. Most species acclimate to their new surroundings better when dug in the spring. This is why we bring in thousands of trees in the spring and hold them year-round. It gives the trees a chance to recover until you need them and minimizes the risk of transplant shock or failure to make sure your newly installed landscape looks good and will last.

Some trees are better suited for fall digging and can reestablish roots before winter. Most species of Amelanchier, Crabapple, Ginkgo, Linden, Lilac, and Maple do well with fall digging and some even seem to do better, avoiding transplant shock. These trees will still develop roots in the cooler months after being dug. With the ground still warm but air temperatures cooling, growth can continue even as the tree's leaves drop. This late growth enables the tree to adjust and recover before winter, preparing the tree to absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil as soon as the weather warms up in spring. During spring, the tree’s energy is directed towards new growth and root development, instead of recovery, which can result in stronger and more vigorous plants. This can enhance the overall health of the tree, making it more resilient to inclement weather, diseases, and pests. In contrast, spring digging can lead to transplant shock, as trees may struggle to adjust and recover while also trying to grow new leaves.

In conclusion, digging and replanting trees is a practice grounded in ecological and botanical science. The combination of biological factors such as dormancy cycles and growth rates with environmental factors like soil conditions and moisture determine the optimal time for digging. By timing the transplanting process correctly, one can set the stage for healthy, vibrant trees that will thrive in their new environments for years to come. So, if you see a tree with some old deteriorating burlap in the fall don’t be too quick to write it off. That tree is not “old”, it was intentionally dug in the spring according to the best botanical practices and held all year just waiting to be planted. It has survived the stress of digging and is primed for replanting, more resilient and ready to thrive in its new environment.

Every time I call a market “mature” someone surprises me with a new product. Recently, I mentioned to a friend that Oreos have done just about everything you can do with such a simple cookie sandwich. Change a couple of flavors, add some food dye…what else is there? Then, what appears this summer? Pop Rocks Oreos! Okay, they got me, never saw that coming.

Another surprise to hit the market this year is Alliance Outdoor Lighting’s latest innovation, BT Ally Bluetooth Lamps! Designed with installation contractors in mind, these cutting-edge lamps are set to revolutionize the way you approach outdoor lighting projects. BT Ally have all the tech built right in to the lamp, there is no longer a need for installing entirely new fixtures to enjoy wireless, color-changing functionality.

Let’s dive into the details of the four new types of BT Ally lamps, their impressive features, and how they can seamlessly upgrade older fixtures.

1. BT Ally for Bullets (Spotlights): Perfect for highlighting architectural features and garden elements, these spotlights offer precise control of your light, allowing you to focus attention at areas of interest. With Bluetooth connectivity, you can easily adjust settings from your smartphone, ensuring the perfect ambiance for any occasion.
2. BT Ally for Path Lights: Illuminate walkways and garden paths with style, keeping the light directed downward and out of your guests eyes. The Bluetooth functionality allows for effortless color changes and dimming, providing both safety and aesthetic appeal.
3. BT Ally for Flood Lights: Ideal for larger areas, these flood lights deliver powerful illumination with the added benefit of Bluetooth control. Whether you’re lighting up a driveway or a backyard, you can customize the lighting to suit your needs.
4. BT Ally A19 Lamps: These versatile lamps can be installed into existing porch lights and other traditional fixtures. The A19 lamps are a game-changer for retrofitting older 120v setups with modern, smart lighting solutions.

Features That Shine

• Color Changing: The BT Ally lamps offer a full spectrum of colors, allowing you to create dynamic lighting scenes. Whether it’s a warm white for a cozy evening or vibrant colors for a festive gathering, the possibilities are endless.

At the risk of sounding lazy, (this is my second article arguing for less work on behalf of pollinators) I’d like to encourage you to talk to your customers about a modified fall cleanup.  Now, before you tell me that fall clean-up is a healthy revenue stream for you, hear me out…

Environmentalism used to be considered a passing fad, merely a trend that would swing in the opposite direction given enough time.  However, as the years have progressed, environmental consciousness has grown into a common practice among many of the younger generations.  While the Boomer generation tends to be split, each generation following tends to have a higher awareness and commitment to the environment. Therefore, a sound business strategy includes incorporating environmentally friendly practices into your business plan as a long-term growth strategy to keep your clientele from aging out of your services.

So now that I’ve argued the business sense around this strategy, let me give you the environmental impact of leaving the leaves:

Many pollinators and other beneficial insects overwinter in or below organic debris. Leaving a layer can help bees, butterflies, moths, spiders, fireflies, worms, and so many more utilize this kind of protection. And, all of these primary consumers provide needed sustenance to secondary, tertiary, and, down the line, apex consumers. Habitat preservation through leaving the leaves plays into the whole food chain in your small area of the world.

And lest you think that you have to leave them where they fall, raking them into designated areas is perfectly acceptable. Utilizing them as mulch in flower beds or around trees & shrubs can suppress weeds and infuse the soil with helpful nutrients for the next year.

The other environmental impact that we see from this idea is the reduction of tons of yard debris being dumped into landfills.  In the yards, the leaves have more access to oxygen to decompose aerobically without releasing excessive amounts of methane.

Of course, this whole argument is for naught, if the homeowners association or city insists on leaf cleanup. However, “leaving the leaves” has been a movement for decades.  As it continues to garner attention and interest, it may become the norm even in city ordinances and HOAs alike.  

I’ve made sure to research this article with some online sources that you can check out for yourself if you want to learn more about “Leaving the Leaves”…

https://www.usda.gov/media/blog/2022/10/17/fall-leave-leaves
https://www.nwf.org/Magazines/National-Wildlife/2015/OctNov/Gardening/Leave-the-Leaves
https://www.webstergrovesmo.gov/708/Leave-the-Leaves
https://mdc.mo.gov/magazines/conservationist/1995-10/autumn-leaves-myth-reality
https://xerces.org/leave-the-leaves?blm_aid=1217656837

As we sit here under the clouds in Plymouth, contemplating more rain and clouds in the coming week, let’s talk about some full-sun shrubs that can liven up your plantings. We can help make a landscape pop with vibrant colors and beautiful flowers. Here are a few unique options to consider when trying to find the right plants for uncovered landscapes:

Summer Wine® Physocarpus opulifolius

Considered to be an improvement to Ninebark, Summer Wine grows to be 5-8’ tall and wide, with dark purple foliage and white flowers in the spring that can even be cut for arrangements. This plant is very low maintenance and provides a great contrast of color wherever it’s planted. As it grows it will also give a unique look as its stems start to splay out, but its tidy habit rarely requires pruning. (If you find you like this plant but need to tuck it into an even smaller space, check out Tiny Wine Ninebark!)

Czechmark Trilogy® Weigela

Czechmark Trilogy Weigela stays relatively small, between 3-3.5’ tall and wide. The interest in this plant comes in spring with its flower color, varying from white, pink and red at any one time. As for the rest of the season, Czechmark Trilogy will have glossy green foliage that stays looking brand new.

Double Play® Candy Corn® Spiraea

Candy Corn Spirea is a part of the Double Play series, and has only made an appearance in landscapes in the past few years. It is relatively new, but sets itself apart from other Spirea with its foliage showing all different shades of yellow, orange and green. A very compact plant that stays around 2-2.5’ tall and wide, this is another low maintenance beauty. While the foliage provides the show all year long, Candy Corn has dark purple flowers in the spring and early summer that contrast beautifully with the vibrant leaves.

These are only a few options for planting in full sun, but there are many more out there if you put your sunglasses on and take a look around!

Photos for this Article Courtesy of Proven Winners - www.provenwinners.com.

Christensen’s is dedicated to always doing a better job of supplying landscapers. To that end, we added Techo-Bloc to our hardscape lineup 2 years ago and this year we’re bringing back Oaks Landscape Products. 

Right now, we can order whatever you need from the full line of Oaks pavers, slabs, steps, curbs, walls, copings, and accessories. Large orders of 10 pallets or more can be here at Christensen’s within 2 days of ordering. You can pick up smaller orders in Wixom on the same day. Christensen’s can bring in orders of less than 10 pallets if an adequate lead time is available.

Next year, we’re planning to stock several product lines. Since we’re still in the early stage, you can let us know what products you might need at a moment's notice, so we can have it ready for you in 2025. Just stop by and talk to one of our friendly Hardscape Team members about the products on your wish list.

One product that we’re excited to have available in this product line is the Nueva 24”x24” Smooth Pillar Caps (in two colors). Besides the intended purpose of topping off pillars, these can also be used as a slab paver for walkways or in gapped patios for the popular “California look.” The Nueva offers curbs, walls, steps, slabs, and pavers in matching colors to complete a uniform space with the same look.

Oaks Landscape Products introduces a different price point to the Christensen’s Hardscape product lineup. New sample boards with examples of the rich Oaks colors and styles have arrived in the yard, so we would like to invite you to peruse our selection of all of our Hardscape lines, now including, Unilock, High Format, Techo-Bloc, Fendt, and Oaks.

Traditional fall perennials like Sedum, Anemone, Mums, Asters, and Rudbeckia are coming into their own! It's the time of year for a refresh into the new season.

However, there are some other fall flowers you may also want to consider. Let us take a look at the staples in the fall garden and then we can get on with some cool stuff!

Mums

Grown for us by a single nursery, they are not just any “Mums” but Belgian mums. Does it make a difference? Yes. Belgian “mums” have much stronger and, more importantly, pliable plant stems. Meaning they do not break when you look at them wrong. They also produce a uniform crown. Don’t forget that all mums are an important fall crop for bees and butterflies.

Ornamental Cabbage & Pansies

Both are waiting for cooler temps before they will show up. Pansies are very cold hardy. We’ve even had potted pansies flowering in January. Cabbage will freeze just like it is and sit like that all winter. Cabbage is an annual whereas the Pansies are semi-perennial – it all depends on how they fill and what the winter is like.

Ornamental Peppers

These have become all the rage. If you have not seen them, they’re worth checking out. They are literally small peppers that come in a multitude of colors.

Swiss Chard

We are going to have some this year – YEAH!! Hopefully, you can get some of them before we buy them all!! This is an ornamental Swiss Chard (yes, you can buy Swiss Chard and Cabbage at the supermarket, but they are just plain old green!) Ornamental Swiss Chard has stems in all shades of red and green with dark green leaves that are thickly veined in white. Very catchy!

Fall Anemone

There are a couple of plants and a few bulbous Anemones that bloom in the spring. However, all the cool hybrids are fall flowering. A couple of our favorites are ‘September Charm (2-3’ tall with pink flowers) and ‘Sweetly’ (from the ‘Fall in Love’ series, these grow 2-3’ tall with dark rose-colored flowers).

Aster

There are a multitude of Asters. Actually, there were so many, and they seemed so different that now we no longer use the word Aster, the new genus word (for some of them) is Symphotrichum. This is where you will find the “Fall Asters”. All of them will come in about 12-24” and there are numerous colors available. We are rather choosy here and try to pick asters that will maintain themselves. Many of the older cultivars need a trim in early summer to keep them compact. (A friend once told me to mow them down with the lawnmower on the 4^th of July. It is advice that I’ve never tried and don’t necessarily recommend, but it certainly gives a strong visual.) We try to only offer cultivars that don’t need that kind of maintenance.

The one everyone loves “Purple Dome” with the purple-blue flowers is one that needs a little trim, but the color is very distinctive. We like the ‘Wood’s’ series. They come in several colors and top out around 12” tall and are compact and uniform. We have also been selling the ‘Kickin’ series which is a new set of cultivars, again numerous colors, reaching about 15”. Aster as a group are a crucial butterfly nectar source in fall. You will find Painted Lady’s, Swallowtails, Sulphur’s, and Red Admiral fighting the bees for winter storage!

Rudbeckia

We will say that because we’re on a butterfly tangent these will supply nectar for Silvery Checkerspot and bees. There are some new ones on the market we have been trialing. They are worth checking out for fall. Some are hardy, others are supposed to be hardy. It will probably depend on the severity of the winter. Time will tell.

‘American Gold Rush’ possesses the traditional Rudbeckia daisy-shaped flowers except they are small but way more numerous. These are hardy and have proven themselves. The plants will reach 2-2.5’ and start blooming in late summer and all the way through fall.

There are numerous hybrids of Rudbeckia hirta and Rudbeckia fulgida, and these are the ones who may not be quite as perennial as hoped! However, even as an annual they are worth it for the fall show!

‘Denver Daisy’ is one of our favorite Rudbeckia. It has a yellow flower that has a mahogany center and a brown eye. The mahogany center is quite large and makes for a spectacular show in the fall. This one should definitely be treated as an annual.

‘Prairie Sun’ has 5” golden yellow petals tipped a lighter yellow. These are a hirta variety and should be treated as an annual. ‘Prairie Sun’ will reach 3-3.5’ tall.

‘Gloriosa Daisy’ are annuals coming in at 24-30”. They are yellow with either a red or an orange edge that start blooming in August.

And, from the same breeding as ‘Goldstrum’, comes ‘Little Goldstar’. We have been carrying this one for a while now and it is a fab little plant. Only 15” tall and covered with traditional flowers from mid-summer to fall.

Sedum

I saved this for the last of the common fall flowers. Everyone seems to think Autumn Joy is it! It’s not. (Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ has the orangish-red flower and stands about 2’ tall.) Check out some of these others for fall flash!

‘Brilliant’ and ‘Neon’ have magenta to reddish flower.

‘Plum Dazzled’ Sedum has plum leaves with raspberry red flowers. ‘Dazzleberry’ has blue-gray foliage with red flowers. Both of these are part of the ‘Sunsparkler’ series. There are several others in the series all with different colored leaves. We like the ‘Sunsparklers’ because of their height – 1-1.5’ with flowers.

‘Mohave Jewels’ also has several varieties in this series with different colored foliage. My favorite is ‘Sapphire’ with purplish-blue leaves and rose colored flowers. (12-15” tall)

Helennium

I call this my happy plant. It makes me smile even when I am just saying the word. The available colors are best describes as an autumn pallet; red, yellow, and orange. They have daisy-like flowers that point up to the sky, reaching 3-5’ tall and 3-5’ wide at maturity.

Heliopsis

H. annus is the traditional annual sunflower. H. helianthoides is the “False Sunflower”. Much smaller flowers but LOTS of them. Like their cousin, the annual sunflower, “False Sunflower” can get 3-5’ tall. There is a shorter one, ‘Tuscan Sun,’ coming in at about 2-2.5’. All flowers are golden sun colored. Heliopsis is unpalatable to deer and rabbits and is a pollinator for bees and butterflies.

Eupatorium

There are several natives belonging to this family and only a few cultivars. Eupatorium are deer, rabbit, squirrel, etc. resistant. Eupatorium produces a sap that tastes bad, can be poisonous and exists thoughout the entire plant. (Pointsettia are a Eupatorium) Nothing is gonna take a bite of these and if they do there will not be a second bite! The native eupatorium can reach 5-6’ even up to 8’ – they can get huge. There are a few dwarf varieties that will only reach 3-4’. Try ‘Little Joe’ 2.5-3’, or ‘Baby Joe’ 2.5-3’. Eupatorium flowers are a dirty white to rose red. This plant is a POWER pollinator. Bees, Monarchs, Skippers, Swallowtails, and Sulphurs, numerous moth species, and Sparrows will eat the seeds. This one feeds everybody!

Before we let you go to enjoy Fall – do not forget your fall bulbs! As long as you’re planting, you might as well drop in some bulbs. They will not brighten up a fall display, but they will be worth it in the spring! You will not be sorry when they start to pop up as the weather warms up next year! And, by then your back will not hurt anymore from all this fall planting!  

Imagine this… It’s a beautiful spring day and I’m wandering a backyard with a client to discuss their landscape needs and wants. The design will include many elements, not only plants, but hardscape, and structures as well as a fire pit and a water feature. They want it all and I’m ready to design the outdoor space that makes them excited to spend many wonderful days entertaining and relaxing.

As I look around, and imagine the discussed possibilities, I see that there will be areas that will be on full display to the backyard neighbors' door. Then, I see that the neighbors to the right have a yard full of kid toys, that while quite natural to see in a home with children, is not the view my client wants to see. Then, of course, the client whispers that they have not gotten along with the neighbor on the other side of their yard for years. The client would rather not have them looking into their space.

OK, maybe you don’t often run into all these scenarios on the same site, but it does happen. Privacy and creating intimate spaces is not something new, but we don’t have to address it in the same way every time we run into the need.

The old standard, “let's plant a row of arborvitae” is not the only solution and should not be the only consideration. While it may indeed be the best solution for a particular scenario, as a designer, its good to branch out and look at other possibilities.

Sometimes an Emerald Green Arb will not be a good fit. For example, if you have deer wandering around your space, these Arborvitae will likely be lunch for the deer, at least as far up as they can reach. There are other varieties of Arbs that will be less likely to be browsed by deer. Green Giant Arbs or Wintergreen Arbs are better solutions for deer areas if, indeed, you and/or your client want the row of Arbs.

You need to know your plants, as they all have different growth rates and height and width requirements. Then there are also considerations like utility lines over a fence line to consider. There is no worse thing than planting beautiful things only to have the utility company come through and chop it all in a very unattractive way.

If space allows, why not create something with more variety of plants giving winter screening, spring or summer flowers, fall color, and just more interest. As we have seen in previous years, a monoculture of plants, can also be a bad idea. If an insect, disease or fungus decides to go after whatever you’ve planted, the entire screening row of plants is wiped out.

Mix different plants and different focal points for a more interesting look and seasonal interest overall. Adding plants that flower in the spring, have wonderful fall color, include evergreen options and great interest during all the seasons makes a garden more enjoyable all year long. Of course, talking to the client to find out where it may be necessary to have year round coverage is a must. Perhaps, its important to the homeowner to have flowers during a specific time of the growing season, as they have a large picnic at that time every year. Maybe feeding the birds is important to them. All these things can and should be considered when selecting the plants for a natural screened area. Also consider plant growth habits so that you are providing the correct size and type of plants to accomplish the privacy. Sometimes an immediate need changes the plants as there just isn’t time to grow in the coverage. It’s also important not to over-plant as some plants' health and development will be compromised if crowded.

Plants are not the only options to consider. Beautiful screening options can be considered as well.

 Custom-built trellis for clematis or cut metal panels can help break up a plant row while still providing beautiful options for privacy. These panels are a particularly great idea when space is an issue. They take up very little yard space and still can be set to provide the blocking of areas. Trellis and metal panels can be mounted to give extra height where needed as well. Then plants can be installed under the area for added interest. These types of panels can also be installed on the side of a pergola or hanging from a roof over a patio.

Because it is not fencing, permitting is not usually needed for this type of installation, however, if you do too long an area, you could have issues. To avoid problems, contact the municipality in the area to see if there are questions about how many continuous panels are too many to be considered a strictly decorative installation that does not need permits.

When we design, there’s so much more than just picking out pretty plants. Professional landscape design needs to encompass all of the needs of the homeowner along with the physical limitations of the space. If you find yourself in need of designs, I’m here to help and can be reached at barowley02@gmail.com or 734-890-9386.

When designing a patio much time and consideration is usually spent choosing the proper paver. Generally, a homeowner will be making an aesthetic choice. Your customer is counting on you to be knowledgeable about the rest of the paver system.  

Though unseen and not as exciting as choosing paver color, let's focus on edge restraint. Forces from above push down on the pavers, causing the bedding layer to be squeezed outward. If allowed to migrate out from under the pavers, low spots can form in the paver field and the border of the paver system may completely fail. Edging material contains the outward migration and halts the shifting that may otherwise take place.

Paver edging combats these forces by creating a wall, of sorts, attached to the base aggregate and extending up past the bedding material, but generally not far enough up the side of the paver where it can be seen. It prevents lateral movement of pavers during freeze-thaw cycles and under heavy traffic. There have been numerous improvements of these systems throughout the years, but they have not been without their problems. 

(Of course, you do not need to install an edge restraint against hard surfaces, only soft surfaces. That means pavers up against walls, foundations, existing driveways, or any hard surface that can contain those pavers will not need an edge restraint installed.)   

The most popular edging materials are concrete and plastic edging.

At Christensen’s we stock Quikcrete bags and BEAST plastic edging. Concrete adheres to the base aggregate and extends up past the bedding sand. Plastic edging has long spikes (ardox spikes) driven down into the base material and ends up oxidizing, grabbing on to the plastic and aggregate.

While these are both popular, both have drawbacks to their use. Subsoil movement is a major cause of plastic edging popping up. The spike is meant to corrode and secure itself on to the fines of the base creating a strong bond to the base and preventing that spike from being pushed up through the plastic restraint. This makes it an ideal restraint for a traditional base preparation that includes fines in the base material, but not for an open graded application where the base is prepared with a clean stone that has no fines.

Concrete adheres to the base aggregate, but can crack with significant heave which will reduce its ability to prevent lateral movement over time. That is why it is recommended to steel reinforce with rebar or fibers added to the concrete mixture. With these additions, the concrete collar will be reinforced to prevent cracking and eventual separation.

A newer option in our market is fiber reinforced edging. It is designed to move along with the base as the subsoil moves. We stock the best value of the newer reinforced concretes, Edgecrete from SEK.  Modern fiber reinforced concrete edging materials contain long polymers that hold the concrete together as it flexes with the base material.

The natural elements and Earthly forces provide a malleable, everchanging canvas for us to work with. Even areas that seem flat and stationary change with precipitation and temperature. Hardscape installations should stand up to the elements. A properly installed concrete paver patio or sidewalk is a system. Each piece of the puzzle plays its part in keeping everything in place. 

For the first time since 1988, Christensen’s will open to the public! Christensen’s Plant and Hardscape Centers end of season Yard Sale will be held on September 14, 2024 and October 12, 2024. Our entire line of products, plant material and hardscape products, will be available. These events are to reduce our overwinter inventory levels and allow us to refresh and restock with new inventory for the 2025 season. We will be offering our products at our wholesale trade pricing with select products at special sale prices. The event is cash (or credit card) and carry, and all sales are final; we will not be tagging or holding product for pick up later and we will not be offering delivery, planting, or installation services.

How will our customers feel about us selling to the public? Our intent is not to compete with our customers, but with the retailers and box stores. The do-it-yourself person that will be attracted to this event is not someone who would normally hire a professional landscaper for their project. Truly, this will be a benefit to our customers by allowing us to sell our products that haven’t been turning and replace them with fresh more popular items. The pricing for this event is our catalog price with no cash or quantity discounts available; there will be selected items on sale with special pricing. We will be making our pricing available through a digital link that will only be available for the event.

No warranty or guarantee is expressed or implied, other than plant material is true to name and disease free at time of sale. All sales are final; we will not be accepting returns or offering exchanges.

Cornus (Dogwood) is not a species of plant that we put much thought into. Most of them sit in the background being the workhorses they are. Cornus are one the of the few species that cover all “types” of plants. From the 3” perennial Cornus canadensis (“Bunchberry”) to the shrubby ‘Ivory Halo’ types (many of them natives) to multiple sizes of ornamental trees which also include many natives.

Let’s start with humble Cornus sericea and its cultivars, the “Redtwig’ and “Yellowtwig” dogwoods. We’ll cover the natives first, then cultivars.

C s. Baileyi… Wait, I said natives first!!! And ‘Baileyi’s’ gets included in with the natives. Unlike its cousins ‘Bergessons’, ‘Kelsy’ etc., ‘Baileyi’ is a naturally occurring hybrid that was found on the side of the road in Minnesota by a worker from Bailey Nursery. Yes, officially ‘Baileyi’ are considered a cultivar (scientifically speaking) but because it is a naturally occurring hybrid it is usually ok to swap for straight Cornus sericea. The straight species, ‘Baileyi’, and all the other cultivars of Cornus sericea like wet to swampish locations and have a vase-shaped habit. What is the difference? ‘Baileyi’ has a deeper red color in the winter! That is it! …officially

Unofficially, there is another problem. I can get you #3 or #5 Cornus s. ‘Baileyi’ all day long. Nice full plants, foliage fairly clean, well maintained, and pruned accordingly for success. However, to get a native Cornus sericea, I have to go to smaller nurseries that specialize in native material. Typically, straight Cornus sericea is available in a #2 or #3 pot with a couple of sticks sticking out of the pot in all directions. It’s hard for me to sell, and more importantly, really hard for you to sell. I understand and you do also, but know that if you want straight species, I am going to sell it to you – only because even though it may be 2 sticks in a pot it is rock solid hardy, and will grow up to be a nice 7-9’ tall plant. It just doesn’t start as pretty as ‘Baileyi’ or any other cultivars.

Other sericea that are noteworthy are:

• ‘Kelsy’ A cute little mound of green leaves and bright red stems growing 2-3’ x 2-3’.
• ‘Buds Yellow’ is an older cultivar but a well-established “Yellowtwig” that is 5-7’ tall with a vase shaped habit.
• ‘Bergessons Compact’ grows 4-5’ x 4-5’ with dark red stems.

Very closely related is Cornus alba ‘Ivory Halo’ or tartarian dogwood. These are not as aggressive as Cornus sericea cultivars can be. The stems get red but not as red as the “Redtwigs”, but the green and white variegated leaves are where it is at!

Another closely related species is C. sanguinea “Bloodstems”. Proven Winners® have some newer ones that are just starting to hit the market in quantities. We had a few here last year, but we will see more this year. ‘Arctic Fire’, ‘Arctic Fire Yellow’, and ‘Arctic Fire Sun’ all have a nice, rounded habit, get 3-4’ x 3-4’, and have bright red (or yellow) stems.

There are many others on the market these days. Many are native to us or other parts of the states. We have our favorites and they have theirs.

Before I go, I would like to go back to the natives for a minute.

• Cornus racemosa “Grey dog’” prefers a swampy area and will reach 10’ tall. It has red stems but not a great color.
• C. amomum “Silky dog”. It really has no stem color and like the “Grey dogs” like a wet swampy area. “Silky’s” have a nice, rounded habit.

Ps: There is a rather large elephant in the room while I talk about Shrubby Cornus. All “dogs” from the perennials to the trees have fungal leaf spot issues! Less sun, water on leaves, and tight space only exacerbate the issues.