Cornus (Dogwood) is not a species of plant that we put much thought into. Most of them sit in the background being the workhorses they are. Cornus are one the of the few species that cover all “types” of plants. From the 3” perennial Cornus canadensis (“Bunchberry”) to the shrubby ‘Ivory Halo’ types (many of them natives) to multiple sizes of ornamental trees which also include many natives.

Let’s start with humble Cornus sericea and its cultivars, the “Redtwig’ and “Yellowtwig” dogwoods. We’ll cover the natives first, then cultivars.

C s. Baileyi… Wait, I said natives first!!! And ‘Baileyi’s’ gets included in with the natives. Unlike its cousins ‘Bergessons’, ‘Kelsy’ etc., ‘Baileyi’ is a naturally occurring hybrid that was found on the side of the road in Minnesota by a worker from Bailey Nursery. Yes, officially ‘Baileyi’ are considered a cultivar (scientifically speaking) but because it is a naturally occurring hybrid it is usually ok to swap for straight Cornus sericea. The straight species, ‘Baileyi’, and all the other cultivars of Cornus sericea like wet to swampish locations and have a vase-shaped habit. What is the difference? ‘Baileyi’ has a deeper red color in the winter! That is it! …officially

Unofficially, there is another problem. I can get you #3 or #5 Cornus s. ‘Baileyi’ all day long. Nice full plants, foliage fairly clean, well maintained, and pruned accordingly for success. However, to get a native Cornus sericea, I have to go to smaller nurseries that specialize in native material. Typically, straight Cornus sericea is available in a #2 or #3 pot with a couple of sticks sticking out of the pot in all directions. It’s hard for me to sell, and more importantly, really hard for you to sell. I understand and you do also, but know that if you want straight species, I am going to sell it to you – only because even though it may be 2 sticks in a pot it is rock solid hardy, and will grow up to be a nice 7-9’ tall plant. It just doesn’t start as pretty as ‘Baileyi’ or any other cultivars.

Other sericea that are noteworthy are:

• ‘Kelsy’ A cute little mound of green leaves and bright red stems growing 2-3’ x 2-3’.
• ‘Buds Yellow’ is an older cultivar but a well-established “Yellowtwig” that is 5-7’ tall with a vase shaped habit.
• ‘Bergessons Compact’ grows 4-5’ x 4-5’ with dark red stems.

Very closely related is Cornus alba ‘Ivory Halo’ or tartarian dogwood. These are not as aggressive as Cornus sericea cultivars can be. The stems get red but not as red as the “Redtwigs”, but the green and white variegated leaves are where it is at!

Another closely related species is C. sanguinea “Bloodstems”. Proven Winners® have some newer ones that are just starting to hit the market in quantities. We had a few here last year, but we will see more this year. ‘Arctic Fire’, ‘Arctic Fire Yellow’, and ‘Arctic Fire Sun’ all have a nice, rounded habit, get 3-4’ x 3-4’, and have bright red (or yellow) stems.

There are many others on the market these days. Many are native to us or other parts of the states. We have our favorites and they have theirs.

Before I go, I would like to go back to the natives for a minute.

• Cornus racemosa “Grey dog’” prefers a swampy area and will reach 10’ tall. It has red stems but not a great color.
• C. amomum “Silky dog”. It really has no stem color and like the “Grey dogs” like a wet swampy area. “Silky’s” have a nice, rounded habit.

Ps: There is a rather large elephant in the room while I talk about Shrubby Cornus. All “dogs” from the perennials to the trees have fungal leaf spot issues! Less sun, water on leaves, and tight space only exacerbate the issues.

Can your heart break for a plant?  My heart has been broken by men, dogs, cats, and one particularly painful financial (but also sentimental) loss, but I never thought it could break for a flower… until I spiraled ‘down the rabbit hole’ of tulips. (Thanks, Betsy, for introducing this captivating subject to me.)

Of all the flowers in horticulture, the Tulip might be the most intriguing.  A modern homeowner may associate the Tulip with spring, bulbs, and maybe the Netherlands without ever realizing the crazy, rich history of these flowers. While no Sticks & Stones article could touch all of the facets of Tulip history, I’d like to share some points that were tragically shocking to me.  Who knows?  Maybe you’ll find a future Jeopardy answer or an intriguing conversation starter for your next tradeshow within this article. I hope I don’t break your heart as well, but we all know that misery loves company.

While the average homeowner, if asked, would probably say that Tulips come from Holland. A ‘fact’ that is reinforced by the Holland, Michigan Tulip Time Festival every year.  However, Tulips, veritably, came from central Asia and were first cultivated in Iran (Persia) in the 10^th century. Before they were prized in the Netherlands, tulips were a symbol of power in the Ottoman Empire. The Dutch botanist Carolus Clusius is believed to be one of the first to plant tulip bulbs in central Europe. Clusius’ variegated tulips were so coveted that he was often the victim of theft.

Alas, Semper Augustus (and many others of the time) were ‘broken’ tulips. Broken tulips are varieties that are infected by a virus (Tulip breaking virus or TBV, a potyvirus) that affects their petals causing patterns of flames and feathers. The virus that makes them so beautiful eventually kills them making the blooms wilt quicker and depleting the energy in the bulbs.  Worst of all, it is contagious (to other tulips, carried most often by aphids) and the bulbs carry the virus to the next generation of bulbs until they slowly disappear.

In modern times, we know all about viruses and the effect they can have on a crop.  Broken tulips are carefully regulated and quarantined away from healthy tulips so the virus does not spread. Unfortunately, in the 17^th century, widespread knowledge of viruses was limited and eventually led to the first modern stock market, an economic bubble and crash. If we want to delve into the economics of Tulip Mania, we’ll have to do it another time, as the financial implications would require a whole other article (or two).

But wait, don’t we see broken tulips at Christensen’s each year?  Well, no. Yes, you can see a similar coloration.  Modern hybridization has evolved to create look-alikes of the Rembrandt tulips. Nowadays, you can pop into the plant center to buy (or pre-order!) Carnaval de Rio, Quebec, etc... and have your very own Semper Augustus look-alike without the danger of a plant virus overtaking your landscapes.

This is, of course, a very simplified article.  If you would like to get deeper into Tulip History, these articles are a good place to start.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/semper-augustus-tulip-netherlands
https://www.nytimes.com/2017/05/11/science/broken-tulips.html
https://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/pdf/10.1094/PDIS.2000.84.10.1052

Pruning is a powerful tool that can significantly impact how a tree grows and develops. Japanese Maple are elegant ornamental trees that can be delicate and require pruning to maintain an ideal shape. Pruning can alter growth patterns, improve structural development, and reallocate resources. It encourages vigorous, healthy new growth and contributes to the long-term well-being of the tree. However, it’s important to apply the right techniques and timing to ensure that the benefits are fully realized and that the tree continues to thrive.

Japanese Maples can be a significant investment for your clients and providing pruning maintenance to them can be a way to set your business apart. Just be sure you are prepared for the task, with knowledge, and with sharp shears!

Sweetbay magnolia (Magnolia virginiana) is a native tree species found primarily in the southeastern United States. It is renowned for its graceful form, fragrant flowers, and glossy green foliage, making it a beloved choice for gardens throughout its range.

Sweetbay magnolia is a medium-sized tree that averages heights of 10-35 feet, depending on growing conditions and variety. Its narrow, oval-shaped leaves are dark green on top and silver-gray underneath, creating a striking contrast when rustled by the breeze. In late spring to early summer, the tree produces creamy white, lemon-scented flowers that stand out against the foliage. These are followed by cone-like fruits that attract birds and wildlife.

Sweetbay is often overlooked in favor of its popular cousin, the southern magnolia.  But, as the name implies, the southern magnolia can be affected by the mercurial Michigan weather.  You could miss a whole season of blooms if the conditions are not right.  But the Sweetbay avoids this with a later bloom.

In conclusion, Sweetbay magnolia is an enchanting plant that deserves a place in any garden or landscape design. So why not consider adding one of these captivating trees to your plantings and experience their unique charm firsthand?

Steep slopes and uneven terrain can be a common burden that presents itself in a landscape. This less-than-ideal planting situation can make it all the more challenging when it comes to plant selection. Low-maintenance shrubs are often desired in these kinds of areas, and there are a select few that not only thrive in these conditions, but they look great as well! Here are a few that can offer a lot of character to a landscape while also stabilizing these hillsides.

Junipers:
Spreading and low-growing junipers can cover large areas and provide a unique look and color to a landscape. Some varieties to consider are Blue Pacific or Blue Rug. There are many varieties of Juniper that could be used in these situations, but these two are known for how well they do in these tricky environments.

Drift Roses:
There are endless options for color when it comes to drift roses. There’s anything from pinks and red to yellows and whites. They have a spreading growth habit and can be great in a landscape for someone who loves roses.

Deutzia:
Some varieties of Deutzia include Nikko, Nikko Blush, or Chardonnay Pearls. This can be a more unique plant to be put on a hill, but it has a mounded shape that can look great as a mass planting.

There’s a reason I work in the Hardscape Center amidst the limestone aggregate and the concrete pavers... I’m easily distracted by rocks.  (...as you might remember from my previous Sticks & Stones article) It makes perfect sense that my vacation time allows me to get closer to some monumental formations.

On a recent trip to Arizona I was able to check two places off of my bucket list.

The first story begins 50,000 years ago when a meteor slammed down onto what is now Arizona. The impact struck with more power than early nuclear bombs, creating a crater ¾ mile wide, 600’ deep! The shockwave vaporized everything near ground zero, pushing winds outward at over 600mph within a 2 mile radius. Animals over 1 mile away likely were killed by the pressure wave and debris, vegetation was destroyed over 200 miles away, and regional weather would have been affected for several weeks.  

Early non-indigenous people thought the crater was an extinct volcano caldera. In 1902 self-taught geologist Daniel Barringer proposed the idea that the geological feature was actually a collision crater. It wasn’t until the 1950’s that this idea was accepted by the scientific community.   The site of the crater is currently preserved by the Barringer family. It’s a family-friendly tourist site if you’re in the Flagstaff/Sedona area.

This second story starts back even further in time. Just a short drive away from Barringer Crater, but 200 million years back in time, Arizona was covered in forests and swampy rivers.   I was originally excited about seeing so much petrified wood and quartz, but upon arriving at Petrified Forest National Park, I became enamored by the gorgeous colors painted across the mounds of layered sediment. Scattered almost everywhere in the park are logs and pieces of petrified wood. In places, they look like hundreds of petrified wood “headstones”, memorializing a place in time where these trees once stood.

It was a surreal experience walking behind my long evening shadow, feeling the cool sinking air on my face as I strolled between mounds of bold reds and crumbly gray rocks and fossils. Then, to turn around and witness the sun sinking beneath the horizon. To say it took my breath away is an understatement.  I became lost in wonder and pure beauty.     

Historic Route 66 runs through the park, so if you’re thinking of a road trip, this would be an excellent stop.

Where’s next on my bucket list?  Someday I’d like to check out 'Jurassic Coast' in England and The Gates Of Hell in Turkmenistan!

With Boxwood still in limbo I thought I would give a refresher on some plant substitutions that have been flyin’ out the door as a replacement.

I would have to start with Ilex glabras – seriously! I would have considered these an underused plant, but their time has come to step out in the world! “Inkberries” are hardy to a zone 4, not too bothered by wet feet, and can take part shade. They are not as deer-resistant as boxwood but are on the ‘least browsed’ list. Ilex glabra do not like our alkaline soils and to look their best with an acidic fertilizer applied. (Our alkaline soils are why they get yellow.) They are also salt tolerant. Straight Ilex glabra gets rather leggy and is known to sucker. However, the newer cultivars are an improvement in both leafing all the way down and less suckering (…they say no suckers but… I don’t always believe what they say.)

Even “Mugos” have seen a resurgence. Pinus mugo prefers full sun but is light-shade tolerant. Of all the evergreens it is the one that gets the least winter burn. They will tolerate our heavier soil but prefer something a little sandier. Pinus mugo is also deer-resistant and tolerates salt. Nothing new and fab but some tried and true ones are available…

Globe shaped Thuja occidentalis have been moving up the popularity ladder for the last several years. The Globe “Arbs” have some newer well-behaved cultivars (not that the older cultivars are not well-behaved!!). Thujas will take our alkaline soil as well as wet soils. They prefer full sun but will take part shade.

I have a chain-link fence that I hate. Well, I don’t hate it. It serves the purpose of containing my Corgis outside while I leave the house.  They do not like to be corralled into the house, so the dog door to the porch and the ugly fence keep my little doggos happy. Many years ago, I began obscuring the hideous chain-link fence with shrubs. There’s lilac and Rose of Sharon, but my favorite addition was when I started adding Clematis.

I began accumulating Clematis as I traveled in my position for a large plant brand.  At that time, the company I worked for did not offer any Clematis in our product line. So, as I visited customers, I was intrigued by this perennial that could hide that loathsome fence in such a lovely blanket of color.  Nearly twenty years later, I can’t remember the variety of my first Clematis, but I distinctly remember carrying the 1 gallon pot onto the plane and holding it in my lap for the hours-long flight from New Hampshire to Michigan. My first clematis was gifted to me and started my love affair with the bright, big blooms. 

And, is that such a bad way to spend a few minutes on a hot pre-holiday afternoon?

So, here’s my quick attempt at the original logical, informative argument…

Why plant clematis when there are so many other climbing plants to choose from? Many other climbing plants can be invasive, like trumpet vine (I’m trying to keep this one off the fence), honeysuckle or wisteria (though some non-invasive cultivars do exist), most Clematis, at least in our area of the country, are not. If you avoid Sweet Autumn Clematis terniflora, there are a lot of excellent non-invasive options in this genus. Nicknamed ‘Queen of the Vines’, it is an incredibly beautiful climbing plant to choose.

If you want to wax poetic about Clematis, come see me sometime!

If you have seen me around the nursery lately, you might have noticed that I look a little different. That would be because I am currently 9 months pregnant, expecting my first child- a baby girl, due on July 21^st. With this article's due date, and my actual due date approaching, I wanted to think of a way to tie my baby to the horticulture industry. Not only would that make this article a memorable keepsake, but also something I could relate to on a personal level. Then it dawned on me, BABY plants! Considering the approaches of seeds, seedlings, and plugs when starting a garden or in nursery production.

Which is better when starting your own garden- seeds, seedlings, or a mixture of both? Well, that depends on how much time and money you have to invest into this project.

If choosing to start with seeds, you will have the benefit of variety. There are endless varieties of seeds available, which would allow you to grow exactly what you want. Seeds are also typically less expensive, so if cost were a factor, seeds could be a little easier on the wallet. However, do consider the added costs of materials needed for seed propagation which could include seeding trays, special tools, and equipment like grow lights (depending on your location).

Another important detail to consider is the time-consuming nature of seeds, and the time it takes to reach maturity on your selected varieties. This timing is crucial to having your crops ready when you want them. Some seeds are quick to reach maturity, such as lettuce and spinach which can be ready in as little as 30 days. Other crops such as tomatoes and peppers can take months to fruit after planting, which makes them a better option to start as a seedling. In this case, knowing your limits and making these choices based on time to maturity will be your best bet.

Lastly, when choosing seed propagation, there also is a sense of pride in growing something start to finish. That feeling of pride is something I have experienced in the past but am now feeling in a way I never thought possible. Starting something from scratch and looking back and saying “I DID THAT” is a very special feeling. Especially in the end when you see your perfect baby- or cucumber, that you grew from scratch.

Starting a garden from seedlings- or transplants, is a much easier route to get the garden of your dreams. There is no shame in letting a professional start your plants off, grow them up and then plant the established transplants in a straight row. Think of this like sending your seeds off to daycare!! The benefits of this include less planning time, less loss, and can give you more predictable results. Timing is still something to consider when planting seedlings, but MUCH less so. Instead of all of the planning of maturation times, you will just need to make sure your seedlings are not planted too late, giving them time to bear fruit by their desired harvest date. A downfall of starting with seedlings can be cost. Generally, the transplants from your local nursery are more expensive than seeding the garden. Keep the cost in mind if this is the route you are considering.

Here at Christensen’s, we do some of our own perennial production. Considering that we are not a farm, or greenhouse, we start all our production from plugs (comparable to transplants). Over the years, through trial and error, I have learned what does, and doesn’t work for us. Cell sizes in the industry range from 128 cell-teeny tiny cells, all the way up to 21 cell- jumbo cells. These individual units are called liners. Over years of experimentation, I have learned that the larger cells- 30c to 21c- work best for me. Depending on the plant, and time of year, I get the best finish out of these. There is a lot of planning when it comes to perennial production. For example, a Nepeta started past Memorial Day can finish off in 4 weeks, whereas an Echinacea started in April, will typically not be available until mid-June. My main tip is to start at your desired finish date and work backwards as to when it should to potted, crop by crop. The plug size and temperature when planting are factors you must consider. Or just come see us for all of your perennials. We’re happy to help!

In conclusion, there are benefits to starting your garden with seeds, seedlings, and a combination of both. As with most things, time, money, and determination are factors that can help make the decision for you. Choose wisely, but just know that like with becoming a parent, there will be much to learn. In my case I am going to go into it with an open mind, taking advice from those around me, while also finding my own way. I have learned that growing my little ‘seedling’ is not easy. In fact, it is the most challenging thing I have done to date. But I know the reward at the end will be the most glorious of ‘gardens’ I could have ever imagined.

Gardening enthusiasts are always on the lookout for unique and visually striking additions to their landscapes. And many homeowners love to be the ‘Joneses’ rather than keep up with them. An inimitable tree that stands out for its beauty and distinctive characteristics is Heptacodium.

Heptacodium miconioides (also known by the original species name, jasminoides and commonly known as Seven Son Flower) is native to China. First introduced to the West by the plant explorer E. H. Wilson in 1907, it would be mostly forgotten until the 1980s when additional seeds and cuttings were brought to the Arnold Arboretum. Most modern Heptacodium in North America can be traced to this shipment. Considered to be rare in the wild, this tree has been gaining popularity in gardens worldwide due to its elegant appearance and unique blooming habits.

In addition to its ornamental value, Heptacodium holds cultural significance in its native China, where it is often planted near temples and sacred sites. The number seven is considered auspicious in Chinese culture, hence the name "Seven Son Flower."

The Seven Son Flower is an excellent special-order option from Christensen’s. While it is gaining in popularity, we do not stock this variety (yet). However, we are happy to bring in what you need, just ask!