Sticks & Stones – News & Views from Christensen's Plant Center

Designing with Natives

White Pine, Iris versicolor, Prairie Dropseed, and American Beech in Southern Lower Michigan

When designing landscapes in Southern Lower Michigan (West Central/East Central/Southwest/Southeast), native plants offer unmatched ecological benefits and timeless beauty. Four species in particular—White Pine, Iris versicolor, Prairie Dropseed, and American Beech—stand out for their versatility, habitat value, and ability to root designs firmly in place. Each of these plants is native to the region, making them both resilient and ecologically significant.

The Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobus), Michigan’s state tree, is a towering symbol of strength and heritage. Historically, it was prized for lumber, shaping much of the state’s economic development. In landscapes, its tall, soft-needled form provides year-round structure and shade. White Pines are excellent for screening, windbreaks, or as specimen trees in large open areas. Their adaptability to sandy soil and cool Michigan winters makes them a low-maintenance choice for long-term plantings.

Thriving along wetlands, pond edges, and moist soils, the Blue Flag Iris (Iris versicolor) is a native perennial with vibrant purple-blue blooms in late spring to early summer. Beyond its beauty, it provides nectar for native pollinators and functions as a natural water filter, stabilizing soil along shorelines. For designed landscapes, Iris versicolor adds color and seasonal interest, particularly in rain gardens or bioswales where water management is key.

The fine-textured, clumping grass of Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepsis) is one of the most graceful prairie species native to Southern Michigan. Its fountain-like foliage turns golden in fall, releasing a subtle, coriander-like fragrance as seeds mature. Prairie Dropseed is ideal for mass plantings, borders, and sustainable lawn alternatives. Deep root systems make it drought-tolerant and excellent for soil stabilization. Additionally, its seeds feed small birds, while its foliage provides shelter for insects and ground-nesting wildlife.

The American Beech (Fagus grandiflora) adds an elegant, long-lived presence to woodlands and landscapes. Known for its smooth, gray bark and glossy, serrated leaves that turn golden-bronze in fall, it provides year-round interest. In natural ecosystems, Beech nuts are an important food source for birds, squirrels, and other wildlife. While it thrives in rich, well-drained soil, it is slower growing, making it best suited for parks, large gardens, or naturalized woodland plantings.

Why Do Natives Matter?

These four species together represent the ecological and aesthetic diversity of Southern Lower Michigan. From the towering canopy of White Pine and Beech to the ground-level beauty of Iris and Prairie Dropseed, they illustrate how layered plantings create resilient, dynamic landscapes. Using native plants supports pollinators, improves soil health, conserves water, and connects landscapes to Michigan’s natural heritage.

For landscapers and homeowners alike, designing with natives like these ensures that plantings not only look beautiful, but also function as part of a larger, living system. By choosing White Pine, Iris versicolor, Prairie Dropseed, or American Beech, we help preserve the unique ecological identity of Southern Lower Michigan—one thoughtful planting at a time.

Information for this article was obtained from the following website: www.canr.msu.edu/nativeplants/plant_facts/local_info/south_lower_peninsula

New(ish) Trees at Christensen’s

Every year, there are new-to-us tree varieties that show up at Christensen’s. I wanted to take a moment and tell you about three that have shown up in the past year or so.

First, we have two new varieties of Redbud: ‘Flame Thrower’® and ‘Black Pearl’™.

‘Flame Thrower’® Redbud has some very unique foliage and color.  In the spring, when it starts to leaf out, the leaves are a burgundy red color. During the season, the leaves will start to change to copper, orange, and yellow and finally finish off a bright green, creating the appearance of a multi-colored tree all year long.  Along with the beautiful foliage, Flame Throwers will have the nice, purple, spring flowers redbuds are known for.  The full-grown height and shape of the tree is 15’ to 20’ tall and wide.

In the spring, when leaves appear on the ‘Black Pearl’™ Redbud they are a dark, glossy, purple, making them appear almost black, hence the name Black Pearl.  They also have nice, lavender-pink flowers in the spring.  This tree grows a little bigger than the ‘Flame Thrower’, maturing at around 15’-20’ tall and 20’-25’ wide.

The last tree to highlight is the First Editions® ‘Gladiator’™ Crabapple.  This is one of those trees that has been around since the mid-2000s but is new to Christensen’s. The ‘Gladiator’ is a narrow, oval-shaped crab (as you can see from the yard picture), with a mature height of 20’ and a width of 10’. Foliage is a bronze purple with bright, pink flowers in the spring. Since we're closer to fall than spring, we've included a sample of the pinks you'll see from the flowers. The 3/8” fruit is a reddish purple. The known benefits of the ‘Gladiator’ are listed as being excellent against scab, fire blight, cedar apple rust, and mildew.

I hope that I have helped broaden your knowledge of a few new(ish) trees available from Christensen’s for use in your next project.

Fall Bulbs

At Christensen’s, there are flowering plants for every season. Springtime showcases Forsythia and Creeping Phlox. Summer highlights just about everything from Peony to Echinacea and Hydrangea. And fall shines a spotlight on Mums, Sedum Autumn Joy, and spectacular fall grass blooms. But what if you could plant something in fall that gave you the earliest of spring blooms?! Fall bulbs make this possible. Fall bulbs include varieties such as Narcissus, Crocus, Tulips, and “unusuals” like Hyacinth, Allium, Muscari and Fritallaria.

The best time to plant fall bulbs in Michigan is in October, or before the ground freezes. Minimum soil temperatures must be in the 40-50 degree range so that the bulbs can establish roots before winter. It is important to find a nice, sunny spot with well-drained soil. Most varieties prefer full sun but would tolerate some partial shade. Bulbs should be planted 4-6” deep (pointy side up, flat side down). It is also helpful to cover with mulch for extra protection from animal damage and for extra insulation from the harsh Michigan winter.

Put on your creative hat since fall bulbs provide endless possibilities! I will share some of my favorites but there are many other options!

Tulips come in every color you can imagine, with different spring bloom times. Keep it classic with varieties like Red Emperor, Pink Impression, or Golden Parade. Or mix it up with Darwin Hybrid Mix, Emperor Mix, or Lily Flowering Mix to give you blooms of multiple colors. You can also stagger bloom times so that when one is done blooming, there is another to follow.

When it comes to Narcissus, or Daffodils, there are many options to choose from. The stunning Yellow Dutch Master, Yellow Cheerfulness, and February Gold are certainly the stand outs. But these cuties come in many looks, cup sizes, and even some bunch-flowering varieties.


The smallest, and first bulbs to bloom are the Crocuses. These delicate, purple flowers are often seen blooming in the snow! If you are looking for early spring activity, then Crocus may be for you!!

If you are looking for something a little less common, check out our “unusuals”, with my favorites being the Hyacinths. Coming in many colors, these bright, tubular flowers are the most fragrant of the spring bloomers. (Seriously, they smell AMAZING). Also known for their smell, we also carry Allium Bulbs. Their large purple and white blooms are hard to miss, and their height gives some dimension to your garden.

Your options are endless when it comes to fall bulbs. Have fun with it, get creative, and plant something in fall that will surprise you in the spring! Christensen’s bulb flyer is available on our website, www.christensensplantcenter.com (Password:6282cpc). Early order pricing is available, with a deposit, through September 3rd. Don’t see what you are looking for? Our sales team is here to help you find exactly what you need! There are plenty more varieties available than what is listed in the bulb flyer.

Globe Arborvitae

Globe arborvitae are some of the most common plants you’ll find in a landscape. But there are many reasons to justify its frequent use.

Globe arbs are slow growing and relatively low maintenance plants, making it an easy choice for anyone wanting smaller evergreens that they can plant and not have to worry about.

Globe arbs do best in either full or partial sun with well-drained soil. They can be just a little picky on where they want to be planted but you'll know pretty quickly if they aren’t happy. Luckily, when they're happy, they look great!

There are many varieties of Globe arbs to choose from, varying in size, color, and foliage making it easy to find the right one for your project.

You can find these at Christensen's.

One of the slower growing varieties, Hetz Midget will reach around 4’ at maturity, but it will take a number of years to do so.

Also known as Linesville, Mr. Bowling Balls will stay around 2-3’ and have scale-like foliage that is different than other arborvitae.

Golden Globes grow similarly to an average Globe Arborvitae, reaching around 4’. But, what makes these stand out is its bright yellow-green foliage.

Fire Chiefs will have yellow-green foliage in the middle with the ends turning a brighter red. They grow to be about 4’ with scale-like foliage, similar to that on a Mr. Bowling Ball.

Visit Christensen's yard to pick out the perfect Arborvitae for your next project!

Water Wars

Every year, our local high school seniors organize what has affectionately been named “Water Wars”.  A non-school activity, it is effectively a huge water balloon and squirt gun fight, all done in the spirit of good, clean fun. That event got me thinking of Landscape Water Wars”.

“Landscape Water Wars” is also an annual occurrence that starts around July 4th, when Christensen’s starts receiving numerous phone calls regarding plants that have defoliated or declined. The week after the holiday tends to be when we receive the most phone calls since it’s usually one of the first, really, hot weekends. Many times, it’s also a long weekend, leaving plants to rely on new irrigation systems for the first time without much attention.

So, I thought I would take a moment to give everyone a friendly reminder to pass along to your homeowners and building managers.

New plantings need a thorough watering every two to three days for the first month or two. Moving from pot to landscaping is stressful and they need to be weaned from the scheduled watering they receive at the nursery. At Christensen's, plants are watered a minimum of twice a day. This is what plants are used to, making the weaning process very important.

  • Water slow enough that the water does not run off, and long enough to get the newly planted root ball wet. For the first month, the roots are only in the root ball. As a result, this is the only place where the plant will get water.
  • The ever-popular Hydrangea will be the first indicator of a lack of water. Hydrangeas will wilt within 24 hours of insufficient water and drop leaves within 3-4 days. Keep an eye on these to see if your landscape needs water.

After the first two months, watering may be reduced to every five to seven days, depending on the air temperature and the amount of wind we have experienced.

Over-watering can be just as problematic. Unfortunately, it presents with many of the same symptoms as under-watering. So, watering needs to be measured and monitored.

All of you, our awesome contractors, install such beautiful landscapes for your clients. It kills me to see them injured or destroyed by something so preventable. 

I suggest incorporating plant care and homeowner education into every job, so your projects thrive, and your clients continue to celebrate their new landscape.

Woody Bee Plants

Here at the Christensen’s, we get a lot of honeybees. One of our neighbors keeps several hives. The bees look at the Christensen’s yard as an all-you-can-eat buffet! We can be proud of that (until inventory day).

If you were to research planting to support honeybees, it would appear all information points to herbaceous perennials.

However, there is a long list of shrubs that will support honeybees (along with butterflies and hummingbirds).


Azaleas and Rhododendrons are great for early feeding! They also feed butterflies and hummingbirds.

Although insignificant to us, Berberis flowers are just the right size for bees and have lots of nectar. It is also the correct color for hummingbirds to feed. Barberry is home to a caterpillar that will eventually pupate hanging from underneath to become a moth for summer.

Caryopteris ‘Bluebeard’ is the right color and provides ample nectar and pollen. Pushy butterflies try to get the bees off these plants with hummingbirds sometimes entering the fray.

Clethra of any flavor is a bee, butterfly and Hummingbird magnet! The plant produces copious amounts of nectar and pollen. Clethra also flowers at a time when there isn’t much else available for the bees.

Diervillea. You can’t avoid them, bees need them. They are also a big attraction to hummingbirds and butterflies.

Hamamelis is one of my favorite plants! “Virgin Witches” and vernalis, along with x intermedia hybrids, are great for early spring as well as late fall. “Witch-hazels” attract bees, butterflies and small mammals.

Hydrangea paniculata hybrids. While bees will feed from them, these aren’t a great choice. Some of those flowers were bred for largeness and in the breeding lost the nectar repositories.

Itea (“Sweetspire”) cultivars are bee magnets. Some types of bees are particular and only like one plant. However, all bees like Itea. Itea also attracts butterflies, especially “Skippers”.

Ligustrum vulgare “Privet” it is a wonder food. They produce nectar and pollen. It attracts all bees, butterflies, moths and caterpillars.

Physocarpus opulifolius, and all its cultivars, produce lots of nectar and pollen for bees, as well as butterflies. Physocarpus are also a Finch magnet.

Can you spot the bee on the Diervilla?

Rosa species and cultivars attract bees. However, the Drift® and Knock Outs® are not good pollinators. They have been bred for other things, losing most of their nectaries. Older varieties, like Rosa rugosa cultivars, are the best for bees and butterflies

Salix species are a favorite food of Queen Bumblebees. Typically, Salix are early bloomers, providing nectar and pollen when not much else has started to flower. They are also butterfly plants. “Viceroy and the “Cloak” Butterflies lay their eggs on Salix and the caterpillars feed on the leaves when they emerge.

I hate having to count Spiraea during the summertime inventory. When you count, you have to move every plant and hope its bees don’t get mad at you! Cultivars available today bloom all year, giving the bees and butterflies a solid food source.

Syringa vulgaris, really any Lilac will do. They are also food for butterflies, several of which use it as a caterpillar plant.

Any and all varieties of Viburnum are heavy nectar producers. If you plan correctly, you can have  Viburnums blooming all season. It is another plant that feeds not only bees and butterflies but also birds and mammals. 

Tannin Stain Tips

Professional landscapers spend much of their time beautifying peoples' homes and commercial properties. A critical part of maintaining these spaces is the removal of natural debris.

Every spring, we get several frustrated calls about brown stains on concrete paver patios. These almost always turn out to be tannin stains. Over the winter, it's very common for leaves, bark and other debris to pile up in corners and around furniture. This wet debris sits for long periods, allowing the tannins to leach, leaving dark stains on porous material, such as concrete.

Different stains require different solutions. Christensen's stocks several types of concrete cleaners. Contact the Hardscape Center to discuss which will address your specific issue.

The Pro's Secret:  Pool Shock (Yes, Really!)

For organic stains, such as tannins and mildew, your best bet is bleach - specifically sodium hypochlorite.  The easiest way to obtain that is pool shock.  You can find it at most hardware stores. It's cheap, strong and works fast. Many homeowners will already have the product, and you may be able to walk them through cleaning the patio themselves.

How To:

1. Wear eye protection and boots

2. Mix 1/2# of crystallized pool shock into a bucket with 3-4 gallons of warm water.

3. Pour the solution directly over the stained areas.

4. Scrub with a stuff brush.

5. Rinse the area thoroughly with clean water to protect nearby vegetation or other items.

6. Avoid contact with fabric or metal furniture.


The dark tannin or mildew stains will disappear in minutes. 

Prevention: Keep it Clean, Keep it Sealed

The most effective stain removal strategy is prevention. Encourage your clients - or your crew - to adopt these habits to reduce staining over time.

Routine Cleaning (especially in spring and fall)

  • Sweep or blow patios frequently during heavy leaf seasons.
  • Remove leaves and other debris after a rainfall
  • Avoid letting mulch or compost wash onto hardscape surfaces.

Sealing Concrete Pavers

  • A breathable, penetrating sealer helps resist stains
  • Industry-recommended sealers include Alliance Gator Hybrid Seal
  • Reapply every 2-4 years or as wear and UV exposure dictates

The Underappreciated Beauty of Yellowwood

In the world of landscape design, familiar favorites like maple, oak, and elm often dominate shade tree selections. However, one elegant native species remains consistently underused despite offering exceptional aesthetics, seasonal interest, and versatility: the yellowwood (Cladrastis kentukea). For landscape professionals seeking to diversify their plant palettes, while adding beauty and function, the yellowwood deserves a second look.

Yellowwood is a medium-sized deciduous tree, native to the southeastern United States, yet hardy in zones 4 to 8. It typically reaches 30 to 50 feet in height with a rounded crown that provides graceful, dappled shade. The name “yellowwood” comes from the tree’s inner heartwood, which is a rich yellow color, visible when the wood is cut.

Despite its many benefits, yellowwood remains curiously underutilized in both residential and commercial landscapes. This may be due to its relatively slow growth when young, or alack of awareness among nurseries and clients. Yet for landscapers willing to look beyond the usual suspects, yellowwood offers unique traits that can elevate any planting design.

Perhaps the most show-stopping feature of yellowwood is its late spring to early summer bloom. Every few years (typically every 2–3), mature trees produce breathtaking panicles of fragrant, wisteria-like white flowers that cascade up to 12–15 inches in length. The floral display rivals that of many ornamental trees, making yellowwood a seasonal focal point when in bloom.

While not guaranteed to flower heavily every year, the rarity and abundance of its blossoms when they do appear add a delightful element of surprise—perfect for clients who appreciate plants with character and a story.

Yellowwood offers multiple design and ecological benefits that make it an ideal candidate for a variety of landscape settings:

  • Shade Tree Excellence: With a broad, rounded canopy and dense foliage, yellowwood provides excellent shade without the excessive size or messiness of some larger species. It’s ideal for patios, sidewalks, or lawn settings.
  • Low Maintenance: Once established, yellowwood is relatively pest-resistant, drought-tolerant, and requires minimal pruning. It maintains a tidy form and has attractive smooth, gray bark that adds winter interest.
  • Urban Friendly: Its non-aggressive root system and moderate size make it a good choice for urban or suburban environments, including street tree applications and compact yards.
  • Pollinator Friendly: Its flowers are attractive to bees and other pollinators, supporting local biodiversity.

Yellowwood performs best in full sun with well-drained soil and benefits from some protection from strong winds due to its softer wood. It has a naturally vase-like to rounded form and can develop a strong central leader if pruned properly when young.

Because flowering can be infrequent, it’s wise to combine yellowwood with consistent bloomers or use it where its graceful form and fine-textured foliage can be appreciated regardless of bloom status.

The yellowwood tree remains one of the most underutilized gems in American landscapes. For landscapers looking to deliver both beauty and function with a native species, Cladrastis kentukea offers a unique blend of elegance, seasonal drama, and practical utility. Whether used as a focal point or integrated into a broader shade canopy, yellowwood can bring both character and cooling relief to your next landscape design.

French Drain Guide

While the little ones may enjoy playing in a mud puddle, excess water on a property can be damaging.

A French Drain is a simple, yet effective, solution for managing excess surface water and groundwater around a home.  If your customer is facing issues with water pooling, or soggy areas in their yard, installing a French Drain can help redirect water away from problem areas.

For a modern and efficient approach, a great option is using the NDS Flo-Well system.  Keep reading for a step-by-step guide.

Materials Needed (all are available at Christensen's)

  • NDS Flow-Well
  • Flo-Well Drain Inlet
  • 4" Tri Wall Pipe or 4" Perforated Pipe
  • EZ Flow Mesh Pipe
  • Gravel (clean, coarse)
  • Landscape Fabric
  • Pulaski Axe
  • Shovel
  • Trenching spade
  • Level
  • Tape measure

Planning Your Drainage System

Before you begin digging, plan the layout of your French Drain. Identify the areas where water accumulates and determine where you want to redirect it.  The Flo-Well should be installed at the low point of your drainage system to collect and disperse water effectively.


Digging the Trench

Use a shovel and trenching spade to dig a trench for the French Drain.  The trench should be about 6-12 inches wide, and deep enough to accommodate the pipe and a layer of gravel, typically around 18-24 inches deep. Make sure the trench slopes away from the home at a gentle slope (around 1% slope or 1" of fall for every 8' of pipe) to ensure proper water flow.


Laying Down Landscape Fabric

Place landscape fabric at the bottom of the trench. This fabric will prevent soil from mixing with the gravel and clogging the system, while allowing water to flow through. Extend the fabric up the sides of the trench so it can be folded over the gravel later.

Installing the Drain Pipe

Lay the drain pipe in the trench on top of the landscape fabric. If using perforated pipe, ensure the holes in the pipe are facing downward to collect water from the surrounding soil.  Connect the sections of pipe as needed, and check that the pipe has a consistent slope.

Adding Gravel

Cover the perforated pipe with gravel. Fill the trench with gravel up to about 2-4 inches from the surface. The gravel should be clean and coarse to facilitate good drainage. As you add gravel, gently compact it to ensure it settles evenly around the pipe.

Placing the Flo-Well

At the end of the trench, where you want the water to disperse, place the NDS Flo-Well. The Flo-Well is a modular, underground stormwater management system designed to collect and infiltrate water efficiently. The Flo-Well has 3 sides: each side has 4 locations where the drain pipe can be connected. Position the Flo-Well accordingly to connect to the drain pipe, ensuring it is level and securely placed in the gravel-filled trench.

Installing the Optional Drain Inlet

At this point, you can install an optional surface Flo-Well Drain Inlet to the top of the Flo-Well.  A surface Drain Inlet will help surface run-off to drain directly into the Flo-Well. It also provides a way to clean out debris that may get into the Flo-Well without having to dig it up.

To install the surface Drain Inlet, remove the center knockout on the Flo-Well lid and attach the Inlet.  It's best to cover the grate of the Inlet with tape until installation is complete to prevent sand and soil from falling into the Flo-Well.

Wrap and Cover

Fold the landscape fabric over the top of the gravel. This will keep soil from entering the gravel and clogging the system. You can now back fill with EZ Flow Mesh Pipe. Finally, backfill and cover the remaining area with soil and grass or other landscaping material to blend the French Drain with the yard.

Test the System

After installation, test the system by running water through it to ensure it flows properly into the Flo-Well and that there are no areas where water pools or backs up.


By following these steps, you can effectively manage water runoff around your customer's property and prevent potential damage caused by excess moisture. The NDS Flo-Well system provides a durable and efficient system for managing stormwater, ensuring that the landscape remains healthy and dry.

Elements of Fun…Even At Work

According to TIME Magazine, Crossword puzzles were invented by Arthur Wynne, an editor at the New York World. The puzzles became an escape from the otherwise depressing news of World War I.

Believe it or not, the New York Times resisted adding these new word games to their publication. They even went as far as publishing editorials against Crosswords.  It wasn't until February 15, 1942 that the first Times Crossword was published.  But, they insisted that it must be the best in the nation!

In the interest of helping our readers add a little fun to their workday, Dave created this Crossword Puzzle.  Click on the image to link to a printable Google Doc.

No cheating. But when you're ready for the Answer Key, click on the image at the right.

New APP... just for you!

Looking for ways to save time and energy?  You've got to see this exciting new technology - just for you!

1 2 3 53