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Tannin Stain Tips

Professional landscapers spend much of their time beautifying peoples' homes and commercial properties. A critical part of maintaining these spaces is the removal of natural debris.

Every spring, we get several frustrated calls about brown stains on concrete paver patios. These almost always turn out to be tannin stains. Over the winter, it's very common for leaves, bark and other debris to pile up in corners and around furniture. This wet debris sits for long periods, allowing the tannins to leach, leaving dark stains on porous material, such as concrete.

Different stains require different solutions. Christensen's stocks several types of concrete cleaners. Contact the Hardscape Center to discuss which will address your specific issue.

The Pro's Secret:  Pool Shock (Yes, Really!)

For organic stains, such as tannins and mildew, your best bet is bleach - specifically sodium hypochlorite.  The easiest way to obtain that is pool shock.  You can find it at most hardware stores. It's cheap, strong and works fast. Many homeowners will already have the product, and you may be able to walk them through cleaning the patio themselves.

How To:

1. Wear eye protection and boots

2. Mix 1/2# of crystallized pool shock into a bucket with 3-4 gallons of warm water.

3. Pour the solution directly over the stained areas.

4. Scrub with a stuff brush.

5. Rinse the area thoroughly with clean water to protect nearby vegetation or other items.

6. Avoid contact with fabric or metal furniture.


The dark tannin or mildew stains will disappear in minutes. 

Prevention: Keep it Clean, Keep it Sealed

The most effective stain removal strategy is prevention. Encourage your clients - or your crew - to adopt these habits to reduce staining over time.

Routine Cleaning (especially in spring and fall)

  • Sweep or blow patios frequently during heavy leaf seasons.
  • Remove leaves and other debris after a rainfall
  • Avoid letting mulch or compost wash onto hardscape surfaces.

Sealing Concrete Pavers

  • A breathable, penetrating sealer helps resist stains
  • Industry-recommended sealers include Alliance Gator Hybrid Seal
  • Reapply every 2-4 years or as wear and UV exposure dictates

The Underappreciated Beauty of Yellowwood

In the world of landscape design, familiar favorites like maple, oak, and elm often dominate shade tree selections. However, one elegant native species remains consistently underused despite offering exceptional aesthetics, seasonal interest, and versatility: the yellowwood (Cladrastis kentukea). For landscape professionals seeking to diversify their plant palettes, while adding beauty and function, the yellowwood deserves a second look.

Yellowwood is a medium-sized deciduous tree, native to the southeastern United States, yet hardy in zones 4 to 8. It typically reaches 30 to 50 feet in height with a rounded crown that provides graceful, dappled shade. The name “yellowwood” comes from the tree’s inner heartwood, which is a rich yellow color, visible when the wood is cut.

Despite its many benefits, yellowwood remains curiously underutilized in both residential and commercial landscapes. This may be due to its relatively slow growth when young, or alack of awareness among nurseries and clients. Yet for landscapers willing to look beyond the usual suspects, yellowwood offers unique traits that can elevate any planting design.

Perhaps the most show-stopping feature of yellowwood is its late spring to early summer bloom. Every few years (typically every 2–3), mature trees produce breathtaking panicles of fragrant, wisteria-like white flowers that cascade up to 12–15 inches in length. The floral display rivals that of many ornamental trees, making yellowwood a seasonal focal point when in bloom.

While not guaranteed to flower heavily every year, the rarity and abundance of its blossoms when they do appear add a delightful element of surprise—perfect for clients who appreciate plants with character and a story.

Yellowwood offers multiple design and ecological benefits that make it an ideal candidate for a variety of landscape settings:

  • Shade Tree Excellence: With a broad, rounded canopy and dense foliage, yellowwood provides excellent shade without the excessive size or messiness of some larger species. It’s ideal for patios, sidewalks, or lawn settings.
  • Low Maintenance: Once established, yellowwood is relatively pest-resistant, drought-tolerant, and requires minimal pruning. It maintains a tidy form and has attractive smooth, gray bark that adds winter interest.
  • Urban Friendly: Its non-aggressive root system and moderate size make it a good choice for urban or suburban environments, including street tree applications and compact yards.
  • Pollinator Friendly: Its flowers are attractive to bees and other pollinators, supporting local biodiversity.

Yellowwood performs best in full sun with well-drained soil and benefits from some protection from strong winds due to its softer wood. It has a naturally vase-like to rounded form and can develop a strong central leader if pruned properly when young.

Because flowering can be infrequent, it’s wise to combine yellowwood with consistent bloomers or use it where its graceful form and fine-textured foliage can be appreciated regardless of bloom status.

The yellowwood tree remains one of the most underutilized gems in American landscapes. For landscapers looking to deliver both beauty and function with a native species, Cladrastis kentukea offers a unique blend of elegance, seasonal drama, and practical utility. Whether used as a focal point or integrated into a broader shade canopy, yellowwood can bring both character and cooling relief to your next landscape design.

French Drain Guide

While the little ones may enjoy playing in a mud puddle, excess water on a property can be damaging.

A French Drain is a simple, yet effective, solution for managing excess surface water and groundwater around a home.  If your customer is facing issues with water pooling, or soggy areas in their yard, installing a French Drain can help redirect water away from problem areas.

For a modern and efficient approach, a great option is using the NDS Flo-Well system.  Keep reading for a step-by-step guide.

Materials Needed (all are available at Christensen's)

  • NDS Flow-Well
  • Flo-Well Drain Inlet
  • 4" Tri Wall Pipe or 4" Perforated Pipe
  • EZ Flow Mesh Pipe
  • Gravel (clean, coarse)
  • Landscape Fabric
  • Pulaski Axe
  • Shovel
  • Trenching spade
  • Level
  • Tape measure

Planning Your Drainage System

Before you begin digging, plan the layout of your French Drain. Identify the areas where water accumulates and determine where you want to redirect it.  The Flo-Well should be installed at the low point of your drainage system to collect and disperse water effectively.


Digging the Trench

Use a shovel and trenching spade to dig a trench for the French Drain.  The trench should be about 6-12 inches wide, and deep enough to accommodate the pipe and a layer of gravel, typically around 18-24 inches deep. Make sure the trench slopes away from the home at a gentle slope (around 1% slope or 1" of fall for every 8' of pipe) to ensure proper water flow.


Laying Down Landscape Fabric

Place landscape fabric at the bottom of the trench. This fabric will prevent soil from mixing with the gravel and clogging the system, while allowing water to flow through. Extend the fabric up the sides of the trench so it can be folded over the gravel later.

Installing the Drain Pipe

Lay the drain pipe in the trench on top of the landscape fabric. If using perforated pipe, ensure the holes in the pipe are facing downward to collect water from the surrounding soil.  Connect the sections of pipe as needed, and check that the pipe has a consistent slope.

Adding Gravel

Cover the perforated pipe with gravel. Fill the trench with gravel up to about 2-4 inches from the surface. The gravel should be clean and coarse to facilitate good drainage. As you add gravel, gently compact it to ensure it settles evenly around the pipe.

Placing the Flo-Well

At the end of the trench, where you want the water to disperse, place the NDS Flo-Well. The Flo-Well is a modular, underground stormwater management system designed to collect and infiltrate water efficiently. The Flo-Well has 3 sides: each side has 4 locations where the drain pipe can be connected. Position the Flo-Well accordingly to connect to the drain pipe, ensuring it is level and securely placed in the gravel-filled trench.

Installing the Optional Drain Inlet

At this point, you can install an optional surface Flo-Well Drain Inlet to the top of the Flo-Well.  A surface Drain Inlet will help surface run-off to drain directly into the Flo-Well. It also provides a way to clean out debris that may get into the Flo-Well without having to dig it up.

To install the surface Drain Inlet, remove the center knockout on the Flo-Well lid and attach the Inlet.  It's best to cover the grate of the Inlet with tape until installation is complete to prevent sand and soil from falling into the Flo-Well.

Wrap and Cover

Fold the landscape fabric over the top of the gravel. This will keep soil from entering the gravel and clogging the system. You can now back fill with EZ Flow Mesh Pipe. Finally, backfill and cover the remaining area with soil and grass or other landscaping material to blend the French Drain with the yard.

Test the System

After installation, test the system by running water through it to ensure it flows properly into the Flo-Well and that there are no areas where water pools or backs up.


By following these steps, you can effectively manage water runoff around your customer's property and prevent potential damage caused by excess moisture. The NDS Flo-Well system provides a durable and efficient system for managing stormwater, ensuring that the landscape remains healthy and dry.

Elements of Fun…Even At Work

According to TIME Magazine, Crossword puzzles were invented by Arthur Wynne, an editor at the New York World. The puzzles became an escape from the otherwise depressing news of World War I.

Believe it or not, the New York Times resisted adding these new word games to their publication. They even went as far as publishing editorials against Crosswords.  It wasn't until February 15, 1942 that the first Times Crossword was published.  But, they insisted that it must be the best in the nation!

In the interest of helping our readers add a little fun to their workday, Dave created this Crossword Puzzle.  Click on the image to link to a printable Google Doc.

No cheating. But when you're ready for the Answer Key, click on the image at the right.

The Mighty Oak

Oak trees are known around the world for their impressive strength, longevity, and significant ecological roles. These trees can live for hundreds of years, growing into massive, sprawling structures with thick trunks and wide canopies. Their deep roots anchor them firmly into the ground, making them incredibly resilient to strong winds and storms. The “mighty” oak has earned its reputation and is a great shade tree for any landscape.

The strong wood of the oak tree is dense and hard, historically prized for building ships, furniture, and structures that needed to withstand time and the elements. Oak trees also support vast networks of life. A single mature oak can host hundreds of species of insects, birds, fungi, and mammals, acting as a cornerstone of woodland ecosystems. Their combination of physical strength and ecological importance has led to cultural reverence as well.

There are many varieties of oak making it a versatile tree that can be used in different ways in your landscape:

The Northern Red Oak (Quercus rubra/borealis) is a fast-growing oak that can reach heights of 60 to 90 feet, with a straight trunk and a rounded crown. Their leaves are long and slender, with pointed lobes and bristle tips, turning a brilliant red in the fall—a signature trait that gives the tree its name. This species thrives in a variety of soil types, though it prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soils.

The Swamp White Oak (Quercus bicolor) is a medium to large deciduous tree, typically reaching heights of 50 to 60 feet with a broad, rounded crown. The leaves are oval with wavy edges and a dark green upper surface, while the underside is pale and silvery-white—giving rise to its species name bicolor. In autumn, the foliage turns a soft golden-brown. Swamp White Oak is appreciated for its adaptability, tolerance to urban conditions, and relatively fast growth rate. It transplants well when young and is resistant to common oak pests and diseases.

The Bur Oak (Quercus macrocarpa) is a large, broad-canopied tree that can reach heights of 70–100 feet, with a massive trunk and thick, deeply furrowed bark. Its leaves are large and have a somewhat irregular shape. They are highly adaptable, drought-resistant, and tolerant of poor soils and extreme temperatures, making it suitable for more arid and open areas. Its broad canopy also offers excellent shade.

The Pin Oak (Quercus palustris) is more pyramidal in shape, typically growing 60–70 feet tall with a straighter trunk and a more symmetrical form. Its leaves are smaller and more sharply lobed, with deep sinuses and pointed tips. The branches of pin oak are characteristically horizontal to drooping on lower limbs, contributing to its distinctive silhouette. Pin oak is a popular ornamental tree due to its symmetrical form and rapid growth.

The Columnar English Oak (Quercus robur ‘Fastigiata’), is a cultivated variety of the native English oak, prized for its narrow, vertical growth habit. Unlike the broad, spreading canopy of the standard English oak, this cultivar exhibits a tightly upright form, making it ideal for landscapes where space is limited or where a strong vertical element is desired. Typically reaching 50 to 60 feet in height with a spread of only 10 to 15 feet, the Columnar English Oak is well-suited to urban settings, avenues, or formal gardens. This tree is hardy and adaptable, thriving in full sun and tolerating a range of soil conditions. However, like other oaks, it can be susceptible to powdery mildew in damp conditions.

The “Mighty Oak” has been a vital tree culturally, ecologically, and in landscaping for hundreds, even thousands of years and it will be for years to come.

Christensen’s has all these varieties of oak available. Contact your salesperson, or stop through the yard to pick the one that’s right for your project.

Benefits of Planting Native Perennials


You may have heard of the rise in popularity of native perennials, making you wonder, “Why should I plant them?”. Well, there are many reasons! 

Native plants are beneficial to our environment. Not only do they provide habitats and food for insects and animals, but they create a healthier place for us and our communities. Native perennials are excellent pollinators and will fill your garden with beautiful flowers, attracting butterflies, hummingbirds, and more! They are also beneficial because they help reduce noise and carbon pollution! Finally, natives require less water due to being adapted to their native environment, saving you money and time!

One of my favorite Michigan natives is Asclepias tuberosa (Butterflyweed). This plant is beautiful in all seasons. The star of the show is its stunning orange flowers that bloom mid-summer. Fall interest continues with unique seed pods! Not only is this plant beautiful, but it is also food for Monarch Caterpillars. By planting Asclepias Tuberosa, you can rest easy, knowing that you are helping preserve one of the most beautiful, and vulnerable, butterflies in North America. Stop by the perennial lot and check out our Asclepias tuberosa. Look closely and you might see the stunning Monarch caterpillar yourself!

Another showstopping Michigan native available at Christensen’s is Lobelia cardinalis (Cardinal Flower). This crimson red beauty is known for its deep, tubular flowers that attract hummingbirds. This plant is commonly found in wetlands, so it will tolerate wet areas and a variety of soils. This plant is an easy to maintain, late-summer bloomer! Check them out today!

Last, but not least, are the Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower). This plant is native to prairies, meadows and woods, making it a very diverse and easy to grow Coneflower. Its bushy foliage and purple flowers provide interest all summer long. Once the flowers are spent, if not dead headed, they will last well into winter, allowing Finches and other birds to munch on their seeds. Fun Fact: Echinacea comes from the Greek word ‘Echinos’, meaning Hedgehog or sea urchin, describing the flowers’ spiky look. Can you see the similarity to the hedgehog in your email?




Landscaping choices have a meaningful effect on the world around us and our communities. Selecting natives not only benefits the insects and birds, but also the people. Making the choice to plant natives will give your customers low maintenance, pollinating options that will make the world a better place!

(Note: Although we do carry many Michigan native plants at Christensen’s there are many more that can be special ordered! Don’t hesitate to inquire about natives and we will do our best to get you what you need!)

Spreading Junipers

Choosing a spreading Juniper can be a daunting task. There are so many to choose from and so many factors to consider. Height, width, color, and overall look varies between each variety. There are several varieties that are considered spreading but can end up being taller than some upright evergreen shrubs! So, how do you choose the right spreading Juniper for your customer’s landscape? While that task can be easier said than done, here are a few tips that may help point you in the right direction!

Juniperus conferta ‘Blue Pacific’

Blue Pacific Juniper is a great option when you are looking for something similar to a ground cover. It stays very low to the ground, only getting to be about 1 foot tall, and will spread to be about 6 feet wide. It enjoys full sun, making it a perfect option for open hillsides and sun gardens. Blue Pacific Juniper has blue-green foliage that will surely add interest to any landscape. Or, if you are looking for a similar plant, but in yellow, take a look at Golden Pacific Juniper. It grows the same, but has bright yellow-green foliage instead.

Juniperus virginiana ‘Grey Owl’

Grey Owl Juniper is another great option to consider when deciding between varieties. It will get a little bit taller, growing to be about 3 feet tall and 6 feet wide. It has a unique gray-green color to its foliage. Because it can withstand full sun, it’s a great option for landscapes with minimal shade.

Juniperus chinensis ‘Sea Green’

Sea Green Juniper is known for its vibrant green color all year long. At full maturity, Sea Greens can reach up to 6’ tall and 8’ wide, making it taller than most spreading junipers. Like the others, it enjoys full sun. Because Sea Greens tend to grow faster than other junipers, they are a perfect choice if you want the new landscape to fill in quickly!

Those are just a few of the options to consider.  If those aren’t quite the Juniper you were looking for, visit the Christensen’s plant yard to view what we have in stock.  Your sales person can also advise you on what can be ordered.

It’s the Law

Why Tarping Bulk Material Matters

Keeping your load secure isn't just about safety.

It's the law! (MCL - Section 257.720)

Secure Every Load

Trucks must be loaded in a way that nothing falls, leaks, or blows off while driving.


Seal All Openings

Make sure tailgates and tarps are tightly closed and secured to avoid spillage.


Watch for Gaps

Check your truck for any holes or cracks that could let materials escape.


No Spillage?

Still a Violation

Even if nothing falls off, an unsecured or improperly loaded vehicle can result in a fine.


Responsibility Falls on

More Than the Driver

Anyone involved in loading a truck that enters the road unsafely can be held responsible, not just the person behind the wheel.


Penalties for

Non-Compliance

Violating these rules can result in more than just a ticket:

- Up to $500 fine

- Up to 90 days in jail

- Or both

Spring Party!

A long time ago, I would have said, “Ugh!” to shrubs. However, over the last few years, I have grown fond of a few. I thought I would showcase my favorites.

We’ll start with my second favorite.

Fothergilla

Really? Fothergilla Kim?!?!  You bet. I agree that in the summer, there isn’t much to talk about when it comes to Fothergilla. During the summer it sits in the landscape as a perfectly well-behaved, quiet, little shrub. (Maybe not so little as Fothergilla gardenii gets to be 3-4’ and Fothergilla ‘Mt Airy’ comes in at 4-5’.) But spring brings the WOW effect of flowers! Even with their “dirty white” color, the little “bottle brushes” are adorable! Flowers appear from April until May. Green leaves don’t appear until after the flowers, making the flowers more fab!

Fall brings vibrant purple, maroon, burgundy, red, yellow, orange and gold to Fothergilla gardenii. (Did I miss a color from the rainbow?) Fothergilla x ‘Mt Airy’ tends to stay in the yellows and oranges.

One more thing about Fothergilla gardenii and ‘Mt Airy’. Ready for it?? They do it all in part shade or full sun. I have Fothergilla gardenii planted in nearly full shade at home and they are just as fabulous as those in full sun. 

Now my favorite.

Hamamelis – “Witch-hazel”

Some of you may say, “Kim this is a tree, not a shrub”. I agree that it’s not really a shrub, but instead a small multi-stemmed tree. Hamamelis virginiana is the bigger of the two at 15-20’, while Hamamelis vernalis is much shorter at around 6-8’. Both are native to Michigan and bird magnets.

Hamamelis vernalis flowers January-March and Hamamelis virginiana flowers October-November. Both have yellow flowers that get tinges of red and flower without the leaves. However, Hamamelis vernalis flowers before leaves while “Virgin Witches” flower after leaf drop.

Christensen’s will have a few other Hamamelis varieties this year. I am looking forward to seeing the ‘Grape Fizz’, spring-blooming, Hamamelis. The flowers are a deep shade of purple-red and can reach 4-5’ tall.

‘Carmine Red’ Hamamelis, flowering in … red. These can reach 10-12’.

Hamamelis ‘Diane’ has an amber-orange flower and grows to 8-12’.

And of course, customers will find Hamamelis ‘Arnolds Promise’, with its yellow flowers.

All of these varieties bloom in early spring and are officially Hamamelis x intermedia hybrids.

And finally, my third favorite shrubbery is…

Pieris

I know it doesn’t do all that great for us and needs a proper location to thrive. But it is worth it! Pieris are ericaceous broadleaf evergreen shrubs, like a Rhododendron. Pieris may need winter help, so it doesn’t desiccate (dry out). The white flowers are born in early spring.

Pieris ‘Mt. Fire’ has huge clusters of flowers, but the show comes from its foliage. New foliage is red but ages to green. Because new foliage emerges all year, there is always some red streaked in. Remember it needs a proper, shady and well-drained, location!

Contact your Sales Rep to add one or more of my favorites to your next project.  

Happy Spring!  k

Bring on the Blooms!!

Can you really have too much of a good thing? Of course!  I can think of many times I’ve eaten myself sick on foods that I rarely get a chance to eat. (Most notably, crawfish in New Orleans… It just tastes better in the French Quarter)

But too many flowers?  Nah, never!  Many years ago, when I heard gardeners complaining about Reblooming Lilacs, the arguments sounded like a kitten growling at an elephant. Why would you bemoan a beloved plant blooming long past its season? A direct quote from one article is “But who wants a lilac up the nose when they’d otherwise be carving pumpkins?” The short answer is, “A lot of people!”

If your customers would love to experience lilacs all season, plant Bloomerang® Syringa.

To maximize the flourish, follow this specific pruning schedule.

  • Do not prune them before the first flush in the spring.  Since they flower on old wood, they set their first buds on the previous year’s growth.
  • After the spring bloom, there’s a window of about 6 weeks before the next flush.  This is the optimal time to cut back a Bloomerang bush. The trim will encourage new growth and this is where the strong re-flush comes from.

However, be sure to manage expectations.  Yes, they re-bloom, but they never reach the full spring flush.  The second flush is enhanced by pruning. But afterwards, the flowers are best described as sporadic.

What about a plant that obscures all the foliage with flowers making it look fake?

Bobo® Hydrangea…I’ve seen the marketing pictures of this plant, but I’ve also experienced it in real life. And, let me tell you, the pictures don’t show how full of color the plant is in the garden. The best description I can come up with is…Unreal. The plant looks like a vase jammed full of mophead, clean-white flowers.  Do you need to have foliage to make a plant look nice?  I know flower shop employees that create arrangements would staunchly say that adding greenery is important.

I disagree.  There’s no such thing as too many flowers.

Adding these stunners to your designs ensures that your customers feel the ‘Wow!’ factor without a lot of work or taking up a lot of space (it’s a dwarf panicle hydrangea).

Pruning Bobo® Hydrangea also encourages new blooms. Consider giving your customers’ Bobos a trim during dormancy (Late fall-winter).  I say trim because taking just 1/3 off the top and shaping up the plant is optimal.  You can prune them to the ground (like some roses) and they will come back nicely. But it is certainly not necessary, especially with such a compact plant.

As I wrote this article, the song “Too Much Fun” by Daryle Singletary kept running through my mind.  I think ole Daryle said it best with the lyrics, “Too much fun, what’s that mean? It’s like too much money, there’s no such thing… …No matter what they say, I’ve done, but I ain’t never had too much fun.” Now, replace “fun” with “bloom”.

Marci McIntosh