Oak trees are known around the world for their impressive strength, longevity, and significant ecological roles. These trees can live for hundreds of years, growing into massive, sprawling structures with thick trunks and wide canopies. Their deep roots anchor them firmly into the ground, making them incredibly resilient to strong winds and storms. The “mighty” oak has earned its reputation and is a great shade tree for any landscape.

The strong wood of the oak tree is dense and hard, historically prized for building ships, furniture, and structures that needed to withstand time and the elements. Oak trees also support vast networks of life. A single mature oak can host hundreds of species of insects, birds, fungi, and mammals, acting as a cornerstone of woodland ecosystems. Their combination of physical strength and ecological importance has led to cultural reverence as well.

There are many varieties of oak making it a versatile tree that can be used in different ways in your landscape:

The Bur Oak (Quercus macrocarpa) is a large, broad-canopied tree that can reach heights of 70–100 feet, with a massive trunk and thick, deeply furrowed bark. Its leaves are large and have a somewhat irregular shape. They are highly adaptable, drought-resistant, and tolerant of poor soils and extreme temperatures, making it suitable for more arid and open areas. Its broad canopy also offers excellent shade.

The Pin Oak (Quercus palustris) is more pyramidal in shape, typically growing 60–70 feet tall with a straighter trunk and a more symmetrical form. Its leaves are smaller and more sharply lobed, with deep sinuses and pointed tips. The branches of pin oak are characteristically horizontal to drooping on lower limbs, contributing to its distinctive silhouette. Pin oak is a popular ornamental tree due to its symmetrical form and rapid growth.

The Columnar English Oak (Quercus robur ‘Fastigiata’), is a cultivated variety of the native English oak, prized for its narrow, vertical growth habit. Unlike the broad, spreading canopy of the standard English oak, this cultivar exhibits a tightly upright form, making it ideal for landscapes where space is limited or where a strong vertical element is desired. Typically reaching 50 to 60 feet in height with a spread of only 10 to 15 feet, the Columnar English Oak is well-suited to urban settings, avenues, or formal gardens. This tree is hardy and adaptable, thriving in full sun and tolerating a range of soil conditions. However, like other oaks, it can be susceptible to powdery mildew in damp conditions.

The “Mighty Oak” has been a vital tree culturally, ecologically, and in landscaping for hundreds, even thousands of years and it will be for years to come.

Christensen’s has all these varieties of oak available. Contact your salesperson, or stop through the yard to pick the one that’s right for your project.

You may have heard of the rise in popularity of native perennials, making you wonder, “Why should I plant them?”. Well, there are many reasons! 

Native plants are beneficial to our environment. Not only do they provide habitats and food for insects and animals, but they create a healthier place for us and our communities. Native perennials are excellent pollinators and will fill your garden with beautiful flowers, attracting butterflies, hummingbirds, and more! They are also beneficial because they help reduce noise and carbon pollution! Finally, natives require less water due to being adapted to their native environment, saving you money and time!

One of my favorite Michigan natives is Asclepias tuberosa (Butterflyweed). This plant is beautiful in all seasons. The star of the show is its stunning orange flowers that bloom mid-summer. Fall interest continues with unique seed pods! Not only is this plant beautiful, but it is also food for Monarch Caterpillars. By planting Asclepias Tuberosa, you can rest easy, knowing that you are helping preserve one of the most beautiful, and vulnerable, butterflies in North America. Stop by the perennial lot and check out our Asclepias tuberosa. Look closely and you might see the stunning Monarch caterpillar yourself!

Last, but not least, are the Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower). This plant is native to prairies, meadows and woods, making it a very diverse and easy to grow Coneflower. Its bushy foliage and purple flowers provide interest all summer long. Once the flowers are spent, if not dead headed, they will last well into winter, allowing Finches and other birds to munch on their seeds. Fun Fact: Echinacea comes from the Greek word ‘Echinos’, meaning Hedgehog or sea urchin, describing the flowers’ spiky look. Can you see the similarity to the hedgehog in your email?

(Note: Although we do carry many Michigan native plants at Christensen’s there are many more that can be special ordered! Don’t hesitate to inquire about natives and we will do our best to get you what you need!)

Choosing a spreading Juniper can be a daunting task. There are so many to choose from and so many factors to consider. Height, width, color, and overall look varies between each variety. There are several varieties that are considered spreading but can end up being taller than some upright evergreen shrubs! So, how do you choose the right spreading Juniper for your customer’s landscape? While that task can be easier said than done, here are a few tips that may help point you in the right direction!

Juniperus conferta ‘Blue Pacific’

Blue Pacific Juniper is a great option when you are looking for something similar to a ground cover. It stays very low to the ground, only getting to be about 1 foot tall, and will spread to be about 6 feet wide. It enjoys full sun, making it a perfect option for open hillsides and sun gardens. Blue Pacific Juniper has blue-green foliage that will surely add interest to any landscape. Or, if you are looking for a similar plant, but in yellow, take a look at Golden Pacific Juniper. It grows the same, but has bright yellow-green foliage instead.

Juniperus virginiana ‘Grey Owl’

Grey Owl Juniper is another great option to consider when deciding between varieties. It will get a little bit taller, growing to be about 3 feet tall and 6 feet wide. It has a unique gray-green color to its foliage. Because it can withstand full sun, it’s a great option for landscapes with minimal shade.

Juniperus chinensis ‘Sea Green’

Sea Green Juniper is known for its vibrant green color all year long. At full maturity, Sea Greens can reach up to 6’ tall and 8’ wide, making it taller than most spreading junipers. Like the others, it enjoys full sun. Because Sea Greens tend to grow faster than other junipers, they are a perfect choice if you want the new landscape to fill in quickly!

Those are just a few of the options to consider.  If those aren’t quite the Juniper you were looking for, visit the Christensen’s plant yard to view what we have in stock.  Your sales person can also advise you on what can be ordered.

Why Tarping Bulk Material Matters

Keeping your load secure isn't just about safety.

It's the law! (MCL - Section 257.720)

Spring is here, and with it comes a fresh start to another busy season of designing and building beautiful outdoor spaces. As the ground thaws and job sites come back to life, let’s get back to the basics—the foundation of every great paver patio.

That foundation begins with limestone aggregate.

Limestone has been a fundamental building material for centuries, prized for its durability and versatility. The limestone we use today took hundreds of millions of years to form. Once part of an ancient tropical sea, limestone is composed largely of calcium carbonate from marine organisms like corals and shellfish. Over time, layers of these skeletal remains compacted into the dense, sedimentary rock we rely on today.

Remarkably, many limestone aggregates still bear the imprints of their ancient origins—fossilized remnants of prehistoric marine life are frequently visible within the stone, offering tangible connections to Earth's distant past long before humans first learned to craft with stone.

Thornton Quarry: A Massive Source of Limestone

Thornton Quarry, located just south of Chicago, is one of the largest limestone quarries in the world. Spanning 1.5 miles long, a half-mile wide, and reaching depths of 450 feet. The site has been in operation since the 1800s. It supplies crushed limestone for road construction, concrete production, and hardscape base material. The quarry is also notable for its role in flood control, as part of the Chicago Deep Tunnel project. The northern section of the quarry has been repurposed as a reservoir capable of holding nearly 8 billion gallons of stormwater, helping prevent urban flooding. With its vast limestone reserves and dual role in infrastructure and environmental management, Thornton Quarry is both an industrial powerhouse and a critical component of regional water management.

From Quarry to Job Site: The Journey of Limestone Aggregate

The extraction and processing of limestone is a monumental industrial endeavor that combines raw power with precision engineering. Modern quarrying operations employ specialized excavators and blasting techniques to dislodge massive sections of limestone from exposed bedrock formations. These colossal fragments—sometimes weighing several tons each—are transported via heavy-duty articulated dump trucks capable of hauling 100-400 tons per load to primary crushing facilities.

The transformation from raw stone to construction-grade aggregate involves a sophisticated multi-stage crushing process. Initial jaw crushers reduce limestone boulders to manageable sizes, followed by cone or impact crushers that further refine the material. A complex network of vibrating screens—some spanning hundreds of feet across processing facilities—carefully sorts the crushed stone into precisely-calibrated size gradations. Quality control measures throughout this meticulous journey ensure the final product has consistent compaction rates, optimal angularity for interlocking strength, and appropriate levels of limestone fines for each specific application.

Christensen’s stocks a variety of limestone aggregates tailored for hardscape applications, including:

• 21AA Limestone – A mix of fines and larger crushed stone, designed for high compaction. Ideal for structural base layers beneath pavers, driveways, and retaining walls, ensuring long-term stability and load-bearing strength.
• 6A Limestone – A clean, angular stone ideal for drainage applications, backfill behind retaining walls, and permeable base layers. Its uniform size reduces compaction, allowing for efficient water movement and preventing hydrostatic pressure buildup.
• #8 Limestone – A smaller-sized aggregate often used as a bedding layer for pavers and slabs, providing excellent leveling properties and enhanced interlock to keep installations secure. Like 6A, #8 is washed clean, and suitable for permeable applications

The Science Behind the Perfect Base

Every professional in the hardscape industry knows that a patio or retaining wall is only as good as its foundation. Compaction is key—without proper density in the base layer, settling, heaving, and shifting will occur over time, leading to costly repairs and dissatisfied clients.

When compacted correctly, 21AA limestone forms a dense, load-bearing surface capable of withstanding repeated freeze-thaw cycles and heavy use. For applications requiring superior drainage, 6A limestone prevents water from becoming trapped behind walls or under slabs, reducing the risk of erosion or frost heave. Using the right combination of materials not only extends the life of an installation but also improves overall performance, making projects more resilient to the elements.

Limestone in the Bigger Picture

Limestone isn’t just vital to hardscaping—it plays a role in nearly every aspect of construction and infrastructure. It’s a key ingredient in concrete, asphalt, and even soil stabilization. Some forms of crushed limestone are used in agricultural applications to balance soil pH, while others serve as filtration media in water treatment plants. The same stone that forms the base of your patios and walkways is also helping to build highways, airports, and bridges across the country.

As we kick off another season, let’s start from the ground up—literally!
Investing time in selecting the right base material and ensuring proper installation techniques will pay off in the long run. If you have questions about which limestone aggregate is best for your next project, stop by and let’s talk stone.

Here’s to a successful season, built on a solid foundation!

Every year as we start to bring in fresh trees in the fall we hear requests for any and every kind of tree. Unfortunately for us, the cold winters here don’t allow for just any tree to be dug and replanted in the fall. It is a great time to plant trees that have previously been dug and given time to recover in our yard. However, it can be dangerous to dig certain trees late in the year depending on the growth habits of the species and other environmental factors. There are many trees we try our best to avoid digging in the fall to protect ourselves and our customers from finding dead trees in the spring when everything else is nice and green.

Most trees go into dormancy in the fall, entering a state where metabolic processes slow down so they can survive the winter. Digging trees in early spring while they are still dormant minimizes the stress caused by cutting its roots and transplanting it. The root system is preserved more effectively, allowing the tree to recover quickly once replanted. As it warms up in spring, they break dormancy and start putting on new growth which is ideal timing for reestablishing the root system after being dug. Trees dug in spring also have the advantage of cooler but warming temperatures and higher moisture. This combination reduces how much water the tree is losing and provides ideal conditions for recovery. Most species acclimate to their new surroundings better when dug in the spring. This is why we bring in thousands of trees in the spring and hold them year-round. It gives the trees a chance to recover until you need them and minimizes the risk of transplant shock or failure to make sure your newly installed landscape looks good and will last.

Some trees are better suited for fall digging and can reestablish roots before winter. Most species of Amelanchier, Crabapple, Ginkgo, Linden, Lilac, and Maple do well with fall digging and some even seem to do better, avoiding transplant shock. These trees will still develop roots in the cooler months after being dug. With the ground still warm but air temperatures cooling, growth can continue even as the tree's leaves drop. This late growth enables the tree to adjust and recover before winter, preparing the tree to absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil as soon as the weather warms up in spring. During spring, the tree’s energy is directed towards new growth and root development, instead of recovery, which can result in stronger and more vigorous plants. This can enhance the overall health of the tree, making it more resilient to inclement weather, diseases, and pests. In contrast, spring digging can lead to transplant shock, as trees may struggle to adjust and recover while also trying to grow new leaves.

In conclusion, digging and replanting trees is a practice grounded in ecological and botanical science. The combination of biological factors such as dormancy cycles and growth rates with environmental factors like soil conditions and moisture determine the optimal time for digging. By timing the transplanting process correctly, one can set the stage for healthy, vibrant trees that will thrive in their new environments for years to come. So, if you see a tree with some old deteriorating burlap in the fall don’t be too quick to write it off. That tree is not “old”, it was intentionally dug in the spring according to the best botanical practices and held all year just waiting to be planted. It has survived the stress of digging and is primed for replanting, more resilient and ready to thrive in its new environment.

At the risk of sounding lazy, (this is my second article arguing for less work on behalf of pollinators) I’d like to encourage you to talk to your customers about a modified fall cleanup.  Now, before you tell me that fall clean-up is a healthy revenue stream for you, hear me out…

Environmentalism used to be considered a passing fad, merely a trend that would swing in the opposite direction given enough time.  However, as the years have progressed, environmental consciousness has grown into a common practice among many of the younger generations.  While the Boomer generation tends to be split, each generation following tends to have a higher awareness and commitment to the environment. Therefore, a sound business strategy includes incorporating environmentally friendly practices into your business plan as a long-term growth strategy to keep your clientele from aging out of your services.

So now that I’ve argued the business sense around this strategy, let me give you the environmental impact of leaving the leaves:

Many pollinators and other beneficial insects overwinter in or below organic debris. Leaving a layer can help bees, butterflies, moths, spiders, fireflies, worms, and so many more utilize this kind of protection. And, all of these primary consumers provide needed sustenance to secondary, tertiary, and, down the line, apex consumers. Habitat preservation through leaving the leaves plays into the whole food chain in your small area of the world.

And lest you think that you have to leave them where they fall, raking them into designated areas is perfectly acceptable. Utilizing them as mulch in flower beds or around trees & shrubs can suppress weeds and infuse the soil with helpful nutrients for the next year.

The other environmental impact that we see from this idea is the reduction of tons of yard debris being dumped into landfills.  In the yards, the leaves have more access to oxygen to decompose aerobically without releasing excessive amounts of methane.

Of course, this whole argument is for naught, if the homeowners association or city insists on leaf cleanup. However, “leaving the leaves” has been a movement for decades.  As it continues to garner attention and interest, it may become the norm even in city ordinances and HOAs alike.  

I’ve made sure to research this article with some online sources that you can check out for yourself if you want to learn more about “Leaving the Leaves”…

https://www.usda.gov/media/blog/2022/10/17/fall-leave-leaves
https://www.nwf.org/Magazines/National-Wildlife/2015/OctNov/Gardening/Leave-the-Leaves
https://www.webstergrovesmo.gov/708/Leave-the-Leaves
https://mdc.mo.gov/magazines/conservationist/1995-10/autumn-leaves-myth-reality
https://xerces.org/leave-the-leaves?blm_aid=1217656837

Traditional fall perennials like Sedum, Anemone, Mums, Asters, and Rudbeckia are coming into their own! It's the time of year for a refresh into the new season.

However, there are some other fall flowers you may also want to consider. Let us take a look at the staples in the fall garden and then we can get on with some cool stuff!

Mums

Grown for us by a single nursery, they are not just any “Mums” but Belgian mums. Does it make a difference? Yes. Belgian “mums” have much stronger and, more importantly, pliable plant stems. Meaning they do not break when you look at them wrong. They also produce a uniform crown. Don’t forget that all mums are an important fall crop for bees and butterflies.

Ornamental Cabbage & Pansies

Both are waiting for cooler temps before they will show up. Pansies are very cold hardy. We’ve even had potted pansies flowering in January. Cabbage will freeze just like it is and sit like that all winter. Cabbage is an annual whereas the Pansies are semi-perennial – it all depends on how they fill and what the winter is like.

Ornamental Peppers

These have become all the rage. If you have not seen them, they’re worth checking out. They are literally small peppers that come in a multitude of colors.

Swiss Chard

We are going to have some this year – YEAH!! Hopefully, you can get some of them before we buy them all!! This is an ornamental Swiss Chard (yes, you can buy Swiss Chard and Cabbage at the supermarket, but they are just plain old green!) Ornamental Swiss Chard has stems in all shades of red and green with dark green leaves that are thickly veined in white. Very catchy!

Fall Anemone

There are a couple of plants and a few bulbous Anemones that bloom in the spring. However, all the cool hybrids are fall flowering. A couple of our favorites are ‘September Charm (2-3’ tall with pink flowers) and ‘Sweetly’ (from the ‘Fall in Love’ series, these grow 2-3’ tall with dark rose-colored flowers).

Aster

There are a multitude of Asters. Actually, there were so many, and they seemed so different that now we no longer use the word Aster, the new genus word (for some of them) is Symphotrichum. This is where you will find the “Fall Asters”. All of them will come in about 12-24” and there are numerous colors available. We are rather choosy here and try to pick asters that will maintain themselves. Many of the older cultivars need a trim in early summer to keep them compact. (A friend once told me to mow them down with the lawnmower on the 4^th of July. It is advice that I’ve never tried and don’t necessarily recommend, but it certainly gives a strong visual.) We try to only offer cultivars that don’t need that kind of maintenance.

The one everyone loves “Purple Dome” with the purple-blue flowers is one that needs a little trim, but the color is very distinctive. We like the ‘Wood’s’ series. They come in several colors and top out around 12” tall and are compact and uniform. We have also been selling the ‘Kickin’ series which is a new set of cultivars, again numerous colors, reaching about 15”. Aster as a group are a crucial butterfly nectar source in fall. You will find Painted Lady’s, Swallowtails, Sulphur’s, and Red Admiral fighting the bees for winter storage!

Rudbeckia

We will say that because we’re on a butterfly tangent these will supply nectar for Silvery Checkerspot and bees. There are some new ones on the market we have been trialing. They are worth checking out for fall. Some are hardy, others are supposed to be hardy. It will probably depend on the severity of the winter. Time will tell.

‘American Gold Rush’ possesses the traditional Rudbeckia daisy-shaped flowers except they are small but way more numerous. These are hardy and have proven themselves. The plants will reach 2-2.5’ and start blooming in late summer and all the way through fall.

There are numerous hybrids of Rudbeckia hirta and Rudbeckia fulgida, and these are the ones who may not be quite as perennial as hoped! However, even as an annual they are worth it for the fall show!

‘Denver Daisy’ is one of our favorite Rudbeckia. It has a yellow flower that has a mahogany center and a brown eye. The mahogany center is quite large and makes for a spectacular show in the fall. This one should definitely be treated as an annual.

‘Prairie Sun’ has 5” golden yellow petals tipped a lighter yellow. These are a hirta variety and should be treated as an annual. ‘Prairie Sun’ will reach 3-3.5’ tall.

‘Gloriosa Daisy’ are annuals coming in at 24-30”. They are yellow with either a red or an orange edge that start blooming in August.

And, from the same breeding as ‘Goldstrum’, comes ‘Little Goldstar’. We have been carrying this one for a while now and it is a fab little plant. Only 15” tall and covered with traditional flowers from mid-summer to fall.

Sedum

I saved this for the last of the common fall flowers. Everyone seems to think Autumn Joy is it! It’s not. (Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ has the orangish-red flower and stands about 2’ tall.) Check out some of these others for fall flash!

‘Brilliant’ and ‘Neon’ have magenta to reddish flower.

‘Plum Dazzled’ Sedum has plum leaves with raspberry red flowers. ‘Dazzleberry’ has blue-gray foliage with red flowers. Both of these are part of the ‘Sunsparkler’ series. There are several others in the series all with different colored leaves. We like the ‘Sunsparklers’ because of their height – 1-1.5’ with flowers.

‘Mohave Jewels’ also has several varieties in this series with different colored foliage. My favorite is ‘Sapphire’ with purplish-blue leaves and rose colored flowers. (12-15” tall)

Helennium

I call this my happy plant. It makes me smile even when I am just saying the word. The available colors are best describes as an autumn pallet; red, yellow, and orange. They have daisy-like flowers that point up to the sky, reaching 3-5’ tall and 3-5’ wide at maturity.

Heliopsis

H. annus is the traditional annual sunflower. H. helianthoides is the “False Sunflower”. Much smaller flowers but LOTS of them. Like their cousin, the annual sunflower, “False Sunflower” can get 3-5’ tall. There is a shorter one, ‘Tuscan Sun,’ coming in at about 2-2.5’. All flowers are golden sun colored. Heliopsis is unpalatable to deer and rabbits and is a pollinator for bees and butterflies.

Eupatorium

There are several natives belonging to this family and only a few cultivars. Eupatorium are deer, rabbit, squirrel, etc. resistant. Eupatorium produces a sap that tastes bad, can be poisonous and exists thoughout the entire plant. (Pointsettia are a Eupatorium) Nothing is gonna take a bite of these and if they do there will not be a second bite! The native eupatorium can reach 5-6’ even up to 8’ – they can get huge. There are a few dwarf varieties that will only reach 3-4’. Try ‘Little Joe’ 2.5-3’, or ‘Baby Joe’ 2.5-3’. Eupatorium flowers are a dirty white to rose red. This plant is a POWER pollinator. Bees, Monarchs, Skippers, Swallowtails, and Sulphurs, numerous moth species, and Sparrows will eat the seeds. This one feeds everybody!

Before we let you go to enjoy Fall – do not forget your fall bulbs! As long as you’re planting, you might as well drop in some bulbs. They will not brighten up a fall display, but they will be worth it in the spring! You will not be sorry when they start to pop up as the weather warms up next year! And, by then your back will not hurt anymore from all this fall planting!  

Imagine this… It’s a beautiful spring day and I’m wandering a backyard with a client to discuss their landscape needs and wants. The design will include many elements, not only plants, but hardscape, and structures as well as a fire pit and a water feature. They want it all and I’m ready to design the outdoor space that makes them excited to spend many wonderful days entertaining and relaxing.

As I look around, and imagine the discussed possibilities, I see that there will be areas that will be on full display to the backyard neighbors' door. Then, I see that the neighbors to the right have a yard full of kid toys, that while quite natural to see in a home with children, is not the view my client wants to see. Then, of course, the client whispers that they have not gotten along with the neighbor on the other side of their yard for years. The client would rather not have them looking into their space.

OK, maybe you don’t often run into all these scenarios on the same site, but it does happen. Privacy and creating intimate spaces is not something new, but we don’t have to address it in the same way every time we run into the need.

The old standard, “let's plant a row of arborvitae” is not the only solution and should not be the only consideration. While it may indeed be the best solution for a particular scenario, as a designer, its good to branch out and look at other possibilities.

Sometimes an Emerald Green Arb will not be a good fit. For example, if you have deer wandering around your space, these Arborvitae will likely be lunch for the deer, at least as far up as they can reach. There are other varieties of Arbs that will be less likely to be browsed by deer. Green Giant Arbs or Wintergreen Arbs are better solutions for deer areas if, indeed, you and/or your client want the row of Arbs.

You need to know your plants, as they all have different growth rates and height and width requirements. Then there are also considerations like utility lines over a fence line to consider. There is no worse thing than planting beautiful things only to have the utility company come through and chop it all in a very unattractive way.

If space allows, why not create something with more variety of plants giving winter screening, spring or summer flowers, fall color, and just more interest. As we have seen in previous years, a monoculture of plants, can also be a bad idea. If an insect, disease or fungus decides to go after whatever you’ve planted, the entire screening row of plants is wiped out.

Mix different plants and different focal points for a more interesting look and seasonal interest overall. Adding plants that flower in the spring, have wonderful fall color, include evergreen options and great interest during all the seasons makes a garden more enjoyable all year long. Of course, talking to the client to find out where it may be necessary to have year round coverage is a must. Perhaps, its important to the homeowner to have flowers during a specific time of the growing season, as they have a large picnic at that time every year. Maybe feeding the birds is important to them. All these things can and should be considered when selecting the plants for a natural screened area. Also consider plant growth habits so that you are providing the correct size and type of plants to accomplish the privacy. Sometimes an immediate need changes the plants as there just isn’t time to grow in the coverage. It’s also important not to over-plant as some plants' health and development will be compromised if crowded.

Plants are not the only options to consider. Beautiful screening options can be considered as well.

 Custom-built trellis for clematis or cut metal panels can help break up a plant row while still providing beautiful options for privacy. These panels are a particularly great idea when space is an issue. They take up very little yard space and still can be set to provide the blocking of areas. Trellis and metal panels can be mounted to give extra height where needed as well. Then plants can be installed under the area for added interest. These types of panels can also be installed on the side of a pergola or hanging from a roof over a patio.

Because it is not fencing, permitting is not usually needed for this type of installation, however, if you do too long an area, you could have issues. To avoid problems, contact the municipality in the area to see if there are questions about how many continuous panels are too many to be considered a strictly decorative installation that does not need permits.

When we design, there’s so much more than just picking out pretty plants. Professional landscape design needs to encompass all of the needs of the homeowner along with the physical limitations of the space. If you find yourself in need of designs, I’m here to help and can be reached at barowley02@gmail.com or 734-890-9386.

Pruning is a powerful tool that can significantly impact how a tree grows and develops. Japanese Maple are elegant ornamental trees that can be delicate and require pruning to maintain an ideal shape. Pruning can alter growth patterns, improve structural development, and reallocate resources. It encourages vigorous, healthy new growth and contributes to the long-term well-being of the tree. However, it’s important to apply the right techniques and timing to ensure that the benefits are fully realized and that the tree continues to thrive.

Japanese Maples can be a significant investment for your clients and providing pruning maintenance to them can be a way to set your business apart. Just be sure you are prepared for the task, with knowledge, and with sharp shears!