Landscaping – Page 11 – Sticks & Stones

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Water: too much – or too little?

Mud puddle

WATER, WATER, EVERY WHERE
And all the boards did shrink;
Water, water, every where,
Nor any drop to drink.

Some may recognize these verses from Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s “The Rime of the Ancient Mariner.” Even if one does not, it is worth noting this work, now approaching 200 years since it was written, was one of the first works advocating a more responsible use of our natural resources. The mariner’s senseless killing of an albatross leads us to question how we use and treat the fauna of this planet. Much of what is written could be applied to the flora as well.

If we remember back to this spring, days of rain created saturated soils and standing water. This did not bode well for some plants. In Coleridge’s story the sailors had no fresh water to drink, but here our trees and evergreens had more than enough fresh water, yet still could not absorb that water. Why not?

Stranded in the equatorial waters of the Pacific all but the ancient mariner eventually die from heat and lack of water.

The overabundance of water and saturation of the soil interfered with a plant’s ability to respirate and to absorb nutrients and water through its roots. The cold, wet spring also encouraged the growth of fungi, like Phytophora, in the soils which can cause lesions on the roots, which, in turn, interferes with a plant’s ability to metabolize whatever it needs. This is called root scald. At first glance some trees looked like they were wilting, in some respect they were, their roots were unable to take in nutrient and moisture causing the plant to collapse. Usually if a plant is dry leaves will wilt, turn yellow from the inner and lower branches, and the plant will begin to drop foliage to compensate.

When a plant is too wet it will begin to wilt only to have the apical branches turn reddish -brown but not separate from the plant.

overwatered and dead

How can one prepare for weather extremes? First, there is more than one way to plant a tree. Common sense goes a long way! Planting depth, the type of planting media, and choosing plants that will tolerate different soils are basic questions any landscaper should be considering for every site. It isn’t rocket science, but there is a lot more to landscaping than digging a hole and throwing the plant in!

Does the site drain well? If not, should I elevate plants in beds that will cause excessive water to run off? Choosing plants with higher metabolisms, plants with dark, more fibrous roots that can handle periodic or ephemeral flooding and including beneficial mycorrhizae in the planting media to protect root nodes will lead to transplant successes. If your planting losses are over 10%, is it due to lack of planting experience and good practices, or is your company guilty of cutting corners and careless installations? Even if you are not warranting your work, poor workmanship will catch up with any company eventually.

healthy tree

If heavy plant losses are “an albatross around your neck,” be a “sadder and wiser man,” and question practices and losses. Remember “the best gardeners have killed just about everything!” Becoming a more responsible contractor and pursuing best planting practices Will reduce losses and increase the bottom line. It pays to care!

“...but this I tell to thee…
He prayeth well, who loveth well
Both man and bird and beast.


He prayeth best, who loveth best
All things both great and small;
For the dear God who loveth us,
He made and loveth all.”

Jeff Good

The Christensen’s Mobile App is here

We are pleased to announce the release of this
time-saving tool that you are going to love.

It's been months in the making, but the day has arrived for the unveiling of our new smartphone app that is designed to make your life easier.

Watch Todd's video for all the highlights, then head to either the Google Play Store or iTunes to download your FREE copy.

Want to get YOURS?
It's free - and it's easy!

iTunes QR code - CPC app

Scan this QR code to go to our app in iTunes

If you're an iPhone user, simply go to iTunes and search for "Christensen's Plant Center" - or click this link.

GooglePlay QR - CPC app

Scan this QR code to go to our app in Google Play

If you're an Android user, go to the Google Play Store and search for "Christensen's Plant Center" - or click this link.

Questions?  Give us a call at (734) 454-1400

Why you should tarp that load!

Tarped semi trailer

We hear it every day - "I don't need to tarp my load - I'm only going a short distance!". Well, there are good reasons why you should tarp every load, no matter how brief your travel time is.

Firstly, it's the law in Michigan that all loads must be secured so that debris can not fly off into the path of following vehicles​ or onto the roadway.

Another reason is that travel speeds expose your purchases to drying winds that WILL affect the foliage, maybe not while you are doing the planting, but the next day or week. Your customer is going to be on the phone to you wondering why his expensive landscaping is turning brown ​and you might be facing at the least, a counseling session - or a possible profit-killing replacement.

Don't be that guy! We are here with the know-how and the materials you need to secure and tarp your loads ​so that you can be on your way safely.

Steve Krogulecki

Why plant annuals?

Kims petunias

Annuals? Why!

I know I am the perennial lady and so bad mouthing annuals should be a full time job for me! However I am not here to bad mouth them, I am only here to find out why you would want to plant them?!? I have asked around for answers and I just don’t think the answers I have received are of much merit any more. I have heard “They flower all year”, “They have such awesome colors and patterns”, “They are easy to maintain”, and “They are bulletproof”. The first two reasons could be true, the last two are not! Even if they were all true, annuals are very expensive (even if your customer is paying the bill – no one has ever been able to retire off planting annuals alone) and very labor intensive (at a time of year when you can make a better margin off other plants).

New breeding in perennials has made many of the “annual” reasons obsolete. Why would you plant annual salvia instead of a perennial salvia? Same awesome blue color, both need deadheading to reflower after a rest period. Let’s compare Coleus to Heuchera. Both plants are grown for their foliage and both prefer a little shade. Check out Heuchera ‘Fire Alarm’, ‘Caramel’, or ‘Snow Storm’. Not only do they have spectacular foliage year after year but they also have pretty flowers to boot! Never let those Coleus flower – because that is sudden death. There are many options in the perennial department to choose from – all with lots of color that last all year long. Why not try Geranium ‘Rozanne’, G. ‘Azure Rush’ or G. ‘Blushing Turtle’, Campanula ‘Blue Waterfall’, Dianthus (any of multi-hundreds to choose from), Lavender (perfume of the Gods) or how about some of these dwarf Buddleias?

Petunia Midnight Sky

I have to be honest and tell you up front I went to a local Garden Center this weekend and bought – GASP- some annuals! I succumbed to this awesome annual Petunia called ‘Midnight Sky’. I fell in love with it because I like that speckled look. You can tell I like that look because my garden is filled with perennials like Heuchera ‘Marvelous Marble’ and ‘Midnight Rose’, Pulmonaria 'Mrs Moon’ and Brunera ‘Jack Frost’. I am going to plant it right off the deck and enjoy if for as long as possible. It will die soon, as I don’t water my plants! Perennials, they really don’t mind it too much – but annuals, well they can’t live without a constant watering. How many of you have heard from your customers that all those succulent Begonias just suddenly – out of the blue, died. All the while, they swear they watered them every day!

I want to leave you with these three thoughts: 1: Ageratum for Butterflies? You haven’t seen Butterflies until you planted Echinacea and now it comes in every color in the color wheel and, the newer ones are rock hardy, 2: Hellebores? Try and find an annual that blooms when there is still snow on the ground, 3: I am desperately looking for Petunia ‘Frills & Spills Damson Ruffle' – help!

Kim Roth

Beware the late frost!

Hoarfrost

Barring tornadoes and earthquakes, few weather occurrences strike fear into the hearts of the avid gardener, landscaper, and nurseryman like a late frost. We have no control over Mother Nature, if she decides she wants to paint everything white on a chilly spring morning. But there are things we can do to protect our plants.

Frost occurs on clear still nights. In late spring a light frost (28-32 F) can harm tender plants, magnolia blooms, and can kill annuals. A hard frost (25-28 F) can kill root hardy perennials and harm new leaves on woody plants. Below 25 F can harm many plants in late spring, mainly due to desiccation. Since temperatures can vary a few feet off the ground, smaller plants can be affected by a frost even if your thermometer reads above freezing. Most weather stations and apps will report a frost advisory, so pay special attention if you have vulnerable plants. Making sure to select plants that are suitable to the Hardiness Zone where they are being planted will reduce the risk of damage, and reduce anxiety over frost.

Hoarfrost

Types of frost include Hoarfrost (feathery white frost crystals), Rime (fog or dew frozen into a glaze), and Black Frost which is when there is no actual frost formed but the low temperatures are still harmful to the plants.

When is it safe to stop worrying about frost in Michigan? That depends on where you live. According to the Climactic Data Center website, in Ypsilanti it’s May 5th, in Detroit and Ann Arbor it’s May 10th, in Flint and East Lansing it’s May 28th, and if you live in Tahquamenon Falls it’s July 9th. Unfortunately nature doesn’t consult the Climactic Data Center website and can easily send a harmful frost your way beyond these dates, so be vigilant in late spring.

Some trees that are susceptible are early budding evergreens such as Black Hills spruce and Concolor fir, and deciduous trees including Sycamore, Lilacs, and Honeylocust.

So what can you do to protect your plants during a late frost? If you haven’t planted them yet and you have the space, bring them indoors (a garage, shed, or enclosed porch will do). Smaller plants can be covered with overturned pots or buckets, and larger plants can be covered with fabric, old bed sheets, or burlap (be prepared and have these items on hand before you need them). Another good method is to use your irrigation system. Watering your plants before and during below freezing temperatures helps prevent desiccation, and the water has and insulating effect on the plants and soil.

What if your plants are damaged by frost? If they are annuals or garden vegetables, they are probably toast. The effects on most landscape plants is cosmetic and plant survivability is good. The healthier the plant is, the more reserves it has to push new growth, so it is important that the plant is in the right environment and is well fed and watered.

Hopefully we don’t have to fret much longer about frost as the warmer months head our way, but don’t let your guard down yet. The Late Frost will get you if you do.

Frost damage
John Mollon

Preventing weeds in landscape beds

Treflan

Spring is here, now is the time for weed prevention, and Christensen’s has a few ways to prevent weeds and up-sell products to your customers for increased profit. Today I want to talk about Treflan and landscape fabric.

Treflan

Treflan is a pre-emergent herbicide for annual grasses and broadleaf weeds. Treflan can be used in new landscape beds, around trees, groundcover, and in established landscape beds. Now is the time to apply - before you see weeds emerging. Treflan creates a chemical barrier to germinating weeds. If there are root fragments in the bed, Treflan can’t stop them from coming up, so bed prep is important for good results. Be sure to follow the directions on the bag for coverage and how to apply. Also note the part of the directions about how the product must be watered in. This is an easy step that is key to your success when using this product.

Another way is using landscape fabric. It stops approx. 95% of weed growth by creating a physical barrier to the weeds germinating. Fabric is useful under decorative stone in landscape beds. It also works very well as a filter fabric around drain tile and behind retaining walls. Christensen’s carries a wide range of fabric in sizes from 3’x 50’ to 10’ x 250’.

Please remember that both of these products only prevent weeds coming up from seed. Anything existing in landscape beds will not be stopped by Treflan or landscape fabric. Your only move is physically removing them or using a product like Killz All. But that’s another topic!

Applying Treflan is a good plan when installing mulch. It’s a value-added service resulting in great-looking beds and happy customers. And make sure that you check out Jermi’s mulch video from last week to get the best practices for installing mulch and making you more money.

David Krajniak
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