Plant care – Page 5 – Sticks & Stones

Archive

Category Archives for "Plant care"

Water: too much – or too little?

Mud puddle

WATER, WATER, EVERY WHERE
And all the boards did shrink;
Water, water, every where,
Nor any drop to drink.

Some may recognize these verses from Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s “The Rime of the Ancient Mariner.” Even if one does not, it is worth noting this work, now approaching 200 years since it was written, was one of the first works advocating a more responsible use of our natural resources. The mariner’s senseless killing of an albatross leads us to question how we use and treat the fauna of this planet. Much of what is written could be applied to the flora as well.

If we remember back to this spring, days of rain created saturated soils and standing water. This did not bode well for some plants. In Coleridge’s story the sailors had no fresh water to drink, but here our trees and evergreens had more than enough fresh water, yet still could not absorb that water. Why not?

Stranded in the equatorial waters of the Pacific all but the ancient mariner eventually die from heat and lack of water.

The overabundance of water and saturation of the soil interfered with a plant’s ability to respirate and to absorb nutrients and water through its roots. The cold, wet spring also encouraged the growth of fungi, like Phytophora, in the soils which can cause lesions on the roots, which, in turn, interferes with a plant’s ability to metabolize whatever it needs. This is called root scald. At first glance some trees looked like they were wilting, in some respect they were, their roots were unable to take in nutrient and moisture causing the plant to collapse. Usually if a plant is dry leaves will wilt, turn yellow from the inner and lower branches, and the plant will begin to drop foliage to compensate.

When a plant is too wet it will begin to wilt only to have the apical branches turn reddish -brown but not separate from the plant.

overwatered and dead

How can one prepare for weather extremes? First, there is more than one way to plant a tree. Common sense goes a long way! Planting depth, the type of planting media, and choosing plants that will tolerate different soils are basic questions any landscaper should be considering for every site. It isn’t rocket science, but there is a lot more to landscaping than digging a hole and throwing the plant in!

Does the site drain well? If not, should I elevate plants in beds that will cause excessive water to run off? Choosing plants with higher metabolisms, plants with dark, more fibrous roots that can handle periodic or ephemeral flooding and including beneficial mycorrhizae in the planting media to protect root nodes will lead to transplant successes. If your planting losses are over 10%, is it due to lack of planting experience and good practices, or is your company guilty of cutting corners and careless installations? Even if you are not warranting your work, poor workmanship will catch up with any company eventually.

healthy tree

If heavy plant losses are “an albatross around your neck,” be a “sadder and wiser man,” and question practices and losses. Remember “the best gardeners have killed just about everything!” Becoming a more responsible contractor and pursuing best planting practices Will reduce losses and increase the bottom line. It pays to care!

“...but this I tell to thee…
He prayeth well, who loveth well
Both man and bird and beast.


He prayeth best, who loveth best
All things both great and small;
For the dear God who loveth us,
He made and loveth all.”

Jeff Good

Five steps to quality

little wilt on these oakleafs

What goes into Christensen’s Plant Center having the freshest, most viable stock?

It began years ago when Lee Christensen (and probably before him his dad Pete) sought out material from the finest growers in North America. When Lee passed on the company to Tim Joy and Frank Huber, that sourcing experience of finding nice material at a good value was part of the deal. Over the years Christensen’s has cultivated relationships with a number of top-notch vendors, and our current Investment team of me, Kim Roth and David Dermyer as well as Frank Roth at Rushton Farms are focused on nurturing and expanding those relationships.

checking the shipping documents

Secondly, the material is shipped by trucking companies we broker ourselves, then unloaded by our highly trained (and sometimes overworked) receiving staff. They can unload 8-12 trucks in a day and 1000’s of boxwood and yews in a week. All plants are placed in our facility under irrigation, both in the yard or the field. Maintaining that irrigation system is a top priority for our yard manager Chris Nielson (assisted by Rigo).

Third, the material is evaluated and approved as it gets unloaded or shortly after. If we see anything wrong, it gets rejected. If I wouldn’t buy it for myself, why would I sell it to you? Sub-par material is often put right back on the truck.

inspectiong some boxwood

We make sure that plants are viable, rooted, and healthy. Plants that don’t pass this evaluation are removed from inventory immediately. Rarely, we receive trees in the spring that are rejected for quality but are not able to be shipped back to the vendor. We put the best of them in our “2%” area, and offer them to you at shockingly low prices.

We do want to be fair to our vendors, so if material arrives early in the year, we give the plants till early June to come out of dormancy. It’s amazing how some will take that long (like trying to wake up a teenager on a Saturday morning).

Finally, the other main force for refreshing our stock is you, our customer. Quick stock turns are key. If you’re busy planting, our staff is busy doing what Lee, Tim and Frank have trained and asked us to do. We are experts at finding quality material and are ready to provide what you need for your installs.

We know your success is our success, and we are glad we can help.

Dan Alessandrini

Beware the late frost!

Hoarfrost

Barring tornadoes and earthquakes, few weather occurrences strike fear into the hearts of the avid gardener, landscaper, and nurseryman like a late frost. We have no control over Mother Nature, if she decides she wants to paint everything white on a chilly spring morning. But there are things we can do to protect our plants.

Frost occurs on clear still nights. In late spring a light frost (28-32 F) can harm tender plants, magnolia blooms, and can kill annuals. A hard frost (25-28 F) can kill root hardy perennials and harm new leaves on woody plants. Below 25 F can harm many plants in late spring, mainly due to desiccation. Since temperatures can vary a few feet off the ground, smaller plants can be affected by a frost even if your thermometer reads above freezing. Most weather stations and apps will report a frost advisory, so pay special attention if you have vulnerable plants. Making sure to select plants that are suitable to the Hardiness Zone where they are being planted will reduce the risk of damage, and reduce anxiety over frost.

Hoarfrost

Types of frost include Hoarfrost (feathery white frost crystals), Rime (fog or dew frozen into a glaze), and Black Frost which is when there is no actual frost formed but the low temperatures are still harmful to the plants.

When is it safe to stop worrying about frost in Michigan? That depends on where you live. According to the Climactic Data Center website, in Ypsilanti it’s May 5th, in Detroit and Ann Arbor it’s May 10th, in Flint and East Lansing it’s May 28th, and if you live in Tahquamenon Falls it’s July 9th. Unfortunately nature doesn’t consult the Climactic Data Center website and can easily send a harmful frost your way beyond these dates, so be vigilant in late spring.

Some trees that are susceptible are early budding evergreens such as Black Hills spruce and Concolor fir, and deciduous trees including Sycamore, Lilacs, and Honeylocust.

So what can you do to protect your plants during a late frost? If you haven’t planted them yet and you have the space, bring them indoors (a garage, shed, or enclosed porch will do). Smaller plants can be covered with overturned pots or buckets, and larger plants can be covered with fabric, old bed sheets, or burlap (be prepared and have these items on hand before you need them). Another good method is to use your irrigation system. Watering your plants before and during below freezing temperatures helps prevent desiccation, and the water has and insulating effect on the plants and soil.

What if your plants are damaged by frost? If they are annuals or garden vegetables, they are probably toast. The effects on most landscape plants is cosmetic and plant survivability is good. The healthier the plant is, the more reserves it has to push new growth, so it is important that the plant is in the right environment and is well fed and watered.

Hopefully we don’t have to fret much longer about frost as the warmer months head our way, but don’t let your guard down yet. The Late Frost will get you if you do.

Frost damage
John Mollon

When should you use Holly-tone®?

Holly-tone

Holly-tone ® is a fertilizer designed to feed plants that prefer to live in acidic soils. Some examples of acid-loving plants are: azalea, dogwood, rhododendron, ferns, hemlock, holly, hydrangea, juniper, arborvitae, magnolia, Japanese Andromeda (pieris), pachysandra, vinca and many other evergreens.

Holly-tone

In new plantings, dig a hole twice as wide and about as deep as the root ball. Add some compost, humus, or sphagnum peat to the soil - not too much, current recommendations are to use mostly native soil when backfilling.

Add one cup Holly-tone ® and mix thoroughly. Holly-tone ® is an organic, slow-release fertilizer and is enhanced with Bio-tone ® microbes, so it is very safe to use.

Established acid-loving plants should be fed twice yearly, spring and late fall. Sprinkle Holly-tone ® around like adding salt and pepper to food. If the area to be fed is mulched it is preferable to remove the mulch, feed, and then restore the mulch on top of the application of plant food.

Shrubs such as hollies, azaleas, and rhododendron use 1 cupful of Holly-tone ® per foot of branch spread. Double the quantity if spread is 3 feet or larger. In the spring, trees such as hollies, hemlocks and juniper use 1 lb.* of Holly-tone ® per inch of trunk diameter. Triple the quantity for diameters 3 inches and over. In the fall plants should be given a light feeding in the late fall.Use half the quantities recommended for the spring.

*One pound of Holly-tone ® equals approx. 3 cupfuls

Rhododendron
David Krajniak
1 3 4 5