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Water Wars

Every year, our local high school seniors organize what has affectionately been named “Water Wars”.  A non-school activity, it is effectively a huge water balloon and squirt gun fight, all done in the spirit of good, clean fun. That event got me thinking of Landscape Water Wars”.

“Landscape Water Wars” is also an annual occurrence that starts around July 4th, when Christensen’s starts receiving numerous phone calls regarding plants that have defoliated or declined. The week after the holiday tends to be when we receive the most phone calls since it’s usually one of the first, really, hot weekends. Many times, it’s also a long weekend, leaving plants to rely on new irrigation systems for the first time without much attention.

So, I thought I would take a moment to give everyone a friendly reminder to pass along to your homeowners and building managers.

New plantings need a thorough watering every two to three days for the first month or two. Moving from pot to landscaping is stressful and they need to be weaned from the scheduled watering they receive at the nursery. At Christensen's, plants are watered a minimum of twice a day. This is what plants are used to, making the weaning process very important.

  • Water slow enough that the water does not run off, and long enough to get the newly planted root ball wet. For the first month, the roots are only in the root ball. As a result, this is the only place where the plant will get water.
  • The ever-popular Hydrangea will be the first indicator of a lack of water. Hydrangeas will wilt within 24 hours of insufficient water and drop leaves within 3-4 days. Keep an eye on these to see if your landscape needs water.

After the first two months, watering may be reduced to every five to seven days, depending on the air temperature and the amount of wind we have experienced.

Over-watering can be just as problematic. Unfortunately, it presents with many of the same symptoms as under-watering. So, watering needs to be measured and monitored.

All of you, our awesome contractors, install such beautiful landscapes for your clients. It kills me to see them injured or destroyed by something so preventable. 

I suggest incorporating plant care and homeowner education into every job, so your projects thrive, and your clients continue to celebrate their new landscape.

Woody Bee Plants

Here at the Christensen’s, we get a lot of honeybees. One of our neighbors keeps several hives. The bees look at the Christensen’s yard as an all-you-can-eat buffet! We can be proud of that (until inventory day).

If you were to research planting to support honeybees, it would appear all information points to herbaceous perennials.

However, there is a long list of shrubs that will support honeybees (along with butterflies and hummingbirds).


Azaleas and Rhododendrons are great for early feeding! They also feed butterflies and hummingbirds.

Although insignificant to us, Berberis flowers are just the right size for bees and have lots of nectar. It is also the correct color for hummingbirds to feed. Barberry is home to a caterpillar that will eventually pupate hanging from underneath to become a moth for summer.

Caryopteris ‘Bluebeard’ is the right color and provides ample nectar and pollen. Pushy butterflies try to get the bees off these plants with hummingbirds sometimes entering the fray.

Clethra of any flavor is a bee, butterfly and Hummingbird magnet! The plant produces copious amounts of nectar and pollen. Clethra also flowers at a time when there isn’t much else available for the bees.

Diervillea. You can’t avoid them, bees need them. They are also a big attraction to hummingbirds and butterflies.

Hamamelis is one of my favorite plants! “Virgin Witches” and vernalis, along with x intermedia hybrids, are great for early spring as well as late fall. “Witch-hazels” attract bees, butterflies and small mammals.

Hydrangea paniculata hybrids. While bees will feed from them, these aren’t a great choice. Some of those flowers were bred for largeness and in the breeding lost the nectar repositories.

Itea (“Sweetspire”) cultivars are bee magnets. Some types of bees are particular and only like one plant. However, all bees like Itea. Itea also attracts butterflies, especially “Skippers”.

Ligustrum vulgare “Privet” it is a wonder food. They produce nectar and pollen. It attracts all bees, butterflies, moths and caterpillars.

Physocarpus opulifolius, and all its cultivars, produce lots of nectar and pollen for bees, as well as butterflies. Physocarpus are also a Finch magnet.

Can you spot the bee on the Diervilla?

Rosa species and cultivars attract bees. However, the Drift® and Knock Outs® are not good pollinators. They have been bred for other things, losing most of their nectaries. Older varieties, like Rosa rugosa cultivars, are the best for bees and butterflies

Salix species are a favorite food of Queen Bumblebees. Typically, Salix are early bloomers, providing nectar and pollen when not much else has started to flower. They are also butterfly plants. “Viceroy and the “Cloak” Butterflies lay their eggs on Salix and the caterpillars feed on the leaves when they emerge.

I hate having to count Spiraea during the summertime inventory. When you count, you have to move every plant and hope its bees don’t get mad at you! Cultivars available today bloom all year, giving the bees and butterflies a solid food source.

Syringa vulgaris, really any Lilac will do. They are also food for butterflies, several of which use it as a caterpillar plant.

Any and all varieties of Viburnum are heavy nectar producers. If you plan correctly, you can have  Viburnums blooming all season. It is another plant that feeds not only bees and butterflies but also birds and mammals. 

Spreading Junipers

Choosing a spreading Juniper can be a daunting task. There are so many to choose from and so many factors to consider. Height, width, color, and overall look varies between each variety. There are several varieties that are considered spreading but can end up being taller than some upright evergreen shrubs! So, how do you choose the right spreading Juniper for your customer’s landscape? While that task can be easier said than done, here are a few tips that may help point you in the right direction!

Juniperus conferta ‘Blue Pacific’

Blue Pacific Juniper is a great option when you are looking for something similar to a ground cover. It stays very low to the ground, only getting to be about 1 foot tall, and will spread to be about 6 feet wide. It enjoys full sun, making it a perfect option for open hillsides and sun gardens. Blue Pacific Juniper has blue-green foliage that will surely add interest to any landscape. Or, if you are looking for a similar plant, but in yellow, take a look at Golden Pacific Juniper. It grows the same, but has bright yellow-green foliage instead.

Juniperus virginiana ‘Grey Owl’

Grey Owl Juniper is another great option to consider when deciding between varieties. It will get a little bit taller, growing to be about 3 feet tall and 6 feet wide. It has a unique gray-green color to its foliage. Because it can withstand full sun, it’s a great option for landscapes with minimal shade.

Juniperus chinensis ‘Sea Green’

Sea Green Juniper is known for its vibrant green color all year long. At full maturity, Sea Greens can reach up to 6’ tall and 8’ wide, making it taller than most spreading junipers. Like the others, it enjoys full sun. Because Sea Greens tend to grow faster than other junipers, they are a perfect choice if you want the new landscape to fill in quickly!

Those are just a few of the options to consider.  If those aren’t quite the Juniper you were looking for, visit the Christensen’s plant yard to view what we have in stock.  Your sales person can also advise you on what can be ordered.

Bring on the Blooms!!

Can you really have too much of a good thing? Of course!  I can think of many times I’ve eaten myself sick on foods that I rarely get a chance to eat. (Most notably, crawfish in New Orleans… It just tastes better in the French Quarter)

But too many flowers?  Nah, never!  Many years ago, when I heard gardeners complaining about Reblooming Lilacs, the arguments sounded like a kitten growling at an elephant. Why would you bemoan a beloved plant blooming long past its season? A direct quote from one article is “But who wants a lilac up the nose when they’d otherwise be carving pumpkins?” The short answer is, “A lot of people!”

If your customers would love to experience lilacs all season, plant Bloomerang® Syringa.

To maximize the flourish, follow this specific pruning schedule.

  • Do not prune them before the first flush in the spring.  Since they flower on old wood, they set their first buds on the previous year’s growth.
  • After the spring bloom, there’s a window of about 6 weeks before the next flush.  This is the optimal time to cut back a Bloomerang bush. The trim will encourage new growth and this is where the strong re-flush comes from.

However, be sure to manage expectations.  Yes, they re-bloom, but they never reach the full spring flush.  The second flush is enhanced by pruning. But afterwards, the flowers are best described as sporadic.

What about a plant that obscures all the foliage with flowers making it look fake?

Bobo® Hydrangea…I’ve seen the marketing pictures of this plant, but I’ve also experienced it in real life. And, let me tell you, the pictures don’t show how full of color the plant is in the garden. The best description I can come up with is…Unreal. The plant looks like a vase jammed full of mophead, clean-white flowers.  Do you need to have foliage to make a plant look nice?  I know flower shop employees that create arrangements would staunchly say that adding greenery is important.

I disagree.  There’s no such thing as too many flowers.

Adding these stunners to your designs ensures that your customers feel the ‘Wow!’ factor without a lot of work or taking up a lot of space (it’s a dwarf panicle hydrangea).

Pruning Bobo® Hydrangea also encourages new blooms. Consider giving your customers’ Bobos a trim during dormancy (Late fall-winter).  I say trim because taking just 1/3 off the top and shaping up the plant is optimal.  You can prune them to the ground (like some roses) and they will come back nicely. But it is certainly not necessary, especially with such a compact plant.

As I wrote this article, the song “Too Much Fun” by Daryle Singletary kept running through my mind.  I think ole Daryle said it best with the lyrics, “Too much fun, what’s that mean? It’s like too much money, there’s no such thing… …No matter what they say, I’ve done, but I ain’t never had too much fun.” Now, replace “fun” with “bloom”.

Marci McIntosh

Full Sun, Full Fun Shrubs

As we sit here under the clouds in Plymouth, contemplating more rain and clouds in the coming week, let’s talk about some full-sun shrubs that can liven up your plantings. We can help make a landscape pop with vibrant colors and beautiful flowers. Here are a few unique options to consider when trying to find the right plants for uncovered landscapes:

Summer Wine® Physocarpus opulifolius

Considered to be an improvement to Ninebark, Summer Wine grows to be 5-8’ tall and wide, with dark purple foliage and white flowers in the spring that can even be cut for arrangements. This plant is very low maintenance and provides a great contrast of color wherever it’s planted. As it grows it will also give a unique look as its stems start to splay out, but its tidy habit rarely requires pruning. (If you find you like this plant but need to tuck it into an even smaller space, check out Tiny Wine Ninebark!)

Czechmark Trilogy® Weigela

Czechmark Trilogy Weigela stays relatively small, between 3-3.5’ tall and wide. The interest in this plant comes in spring with its flower color, varying from white, pink and red at any one time. As for the rest of the season, Czechmark Trilogy will have glossy green foliage that stays looking brand new.

Double Play® Candy Corn® Spiraea

Candy Corn Spirea is a part of the Double Play series, and has only made an appearance in landscapes in the past few years. It is relatively new, but sets itself apart from other Spirea with its foliage showing all different shades of yellow, orange and green. A very compact plant that stays around 2-2.5’ tall and wide, this is another low maintenance beauty. While the foliage provides the show all year long, Candy Corn has dark purple flowers in the spring and early summer that contrast beautifully with the vibrant leaves.

These are only a few options for planting in full sun, but there are many more out there if you put your sunglasses on and take a look around!

Photos for this Article Courtesy of Proven Winners - www.provenwinners.com.