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So you want blue in the garden!

Ceratostigma

Horticulturally speaking, the color blue is rare. So rare, that many of the flowers we call "blue" are in fact... purple. Blue iris? Purple. Blue roses? HA! Purple - and weak at that. Syringa, Campanula, Lobelia, Hyacinth, Baptisia... all have varieties CALLED blue, but they are... purple. I found this quite confusing when I started in the nursery business. Apparently we gardeners are DESPERATE for blue in the garden and we will call anything close "blue".

Picea pungens 'Glauca Globosa'

Picea pungens 'Glauca Globosa'

This tendency extends to foliage as well - blue spruce, blue juniper, and blue hosta, are all rather more silvery than blue, with the added insult of the color wearing off with weather and time! I still chuckle about the customer I had on the retail lot one day, who accused us of spray-painting the 'Moerheim' spruce because, "Look! It rubs off!" There wasn't much I could say because he was right, it did.

Scilla and Chionodoxa

L: Scilla siberica - R: Chionodoxa luciliae

There ARE a few truly blue flowers we can grow in Michigan. Amsonia, Delphinium, Virginia Bluebells, the annual 'Black and Blue' Salvia, Forget-me-nots, Sisyrinchium, and Ceratostigma all have excellent blue flowers. Scilla siberica is a minor bulb that naturalizes and can give you an ocean of blue flowers every spring. Chionodoxa's pretty good, too.

Caryopteris

Caryopteris x clandonensis

In shrubs you can try Caryopteris - wait, that one's a bit on the purple side - heck, it's barely a shrub, more like a woody perennial. Hmmmm. Hibiscus 'Blue Chiffon' is pretty blue. Almost. OKAY, OKAY, FINE. You want blue? You'd best be planting Hydrangea. The old favorite, 'Nikko Blue' has been surpassed by newer cultivars like Nantucket Blue™ and The Endless Summer® line, with the original Endless Summer®, Twist-n-Shout®, and BloomStruck®  all of which bloom on both old and new wood. These plants can be coaxed into producing nice blue blooms with the proper soil pH.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea Endless Summer®

So you do have some options. And take those photos of bright blue-flowering plants on Pinterest with a grain of salt. Most of them are Photoshop. Or perhaps dyed like those poor Phalenopsis orchids at the grocery store. 

Myosotis

Myosotis palustris

Holly Christensen

How to shear boxwood and yew

Sheared taxus

People are always asking me about the best time to prune the shrubs they've installed or are maintaining.  For flowering shrubs the answer is easy - prune right after they’re done blooming. Late pruning in this case is bad since you’re removing the next season's flower buds and most of your clients would not be happy about that.

Buxus ready for next shear

Boxwood (Buxus) and yew (Taxus) are a little different as flowers are not necessary or desired. First and foremost, always use very sharp pruners or shears, to make the pruning easier and reduce damage to the plant. To maintain trimmed forms and hedges you ideally need to shear twice a year. Once in late May or early June after the initial foliar flush, and then a second time around August. This causes the formation of lateral buds which help maintain denser growth. 

Sheared buxus

Keep in mind that shearing a plant to the same exact size every year causes the outside of the plant to become very dense, leaving the interior bare. Allowing for a slight increase helps delay the need for an extreme renewal pruning or plant replacement. Try not to prune during a drought period, and to prevent foliar freezeback pruning should never occur in late fall or winter. If you’re only going to shear once a year, try to do it around August. 

taxus with tight shear

When shearing hedges, taper them so that the top is narrower than the bottom, so all sides will be exposed to sunlight. This will give you a slightly pyramidal shape. Avoid at all cost the inverted pyramid look, as this even further screens sunlight and eventually kills the bottom.

Taxus hedge

Both boxwood and yew are very tolerant of shearing and with proper technique will remain attractive and functional in the landscape for many years. 

sheared taxus
Bill Ten Eyck

Are native plants always better?

amelanchier berries

Native plants have their place in landscaping. It is in native areas. Attempting to force native plants into landscapes in urban areas is difficult for everyone and everything. The plants will have a difficult time being successful in those conditions, and often the property owner and the landscape contractor are not prepared for the amount of maintenance it will take to make this successful. And neither are prepared for the financial commitment to make this successful.

For the last several years there has seemed to be a push to have more natives included in landscapes. To say that I am not a fan of this is not a secret. But it is always nice when someone with Ph.D after their name supports your position. Please read the below article by Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott about how native plants might not be good choice for most landscapes in urban areas.

Aronia melanocarpa

Black Chokeberry  (Aronia melanocarpa) a Michigan native

The Myth of Native Plant Superiority:

"Always choose native plants for environmentally sustainable landscaping."

by Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D.

Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor
Puyallup Research and Extension Center
Washington State University

The Myth

In recent years, people have become more interested in native plants and landscapes as natural ecosystems continue to shrink. This admirable dedication to our natural world heritage has manifested itself in native gardens springing up in every place imaginable. At the same time, I see more of these native gardens suffering from disease, pests, and general decline. What’s happening? Aren’t native plants supposed to be resistant to local pathogens and parasites?

The Reality

There are some urban areas where many native plants just do not survive (or do so only with substantial maintenance). Such areas can include parking strips, traffic circles, and parking lots: in short, areas with limited soil area and a lot of environmental stress. Consider the realities of these landscapes:

  • Discontinuous, dissimilar layers of topsoils and subsoils with poor drainage and aeration
  • Significant compaction and other physical disturbances as a result of animal, pedestrian, and vehicular traffic
  • Alkaline pH due to leaching of lime from concrete
  • Inadequate or improper fertilizer application
  • Lack of mulch or other soil protection
  • Lack of adequate water in summer months
  • Increased heat load from asphalt reflectance
  • Air pollution

Many of the trees and shrubs native to our region evolved in thin, acidic soils with adequate moisture to maintain soil and plant water status. When these species are installed in urban landscapes with significantly different soil and water characteristics they are challenged by a new set of environmental circumstances. As landscape plantings begin to suffer from multiple stresses, they become prone to invasion from opportunistic insects, bacteria, and fungi. Stress can weaken a plant’s natural resistance to local pests; witness the recent decline in our native Arbutus menziesii (Madrone) populations.  

Arbutus_menziesii

Another example of the failure of native trees to survive in urban sites comes from Palm Desert, CA. Many of the parking lots there were planted in native mesquite. Mesquite survives in its arid environment by developing both a deep taproot and an extensive shallow root system. When planted into the very limited soil spaces typical of parking lot tree wells, these trees often tilt or topple as a result of insufficient lateral root development.  The City of Palm Desert has recently looked to non-native tree species, including ash, to replace mesquite in these settings.  

The Bottom Line

  • Native, temperate forest plants are excellent choices for unrestricted sites with acidic, well-drained soils.
  • For sites with limited, alkaline, and/or poorly drained soils, choose species adapted to environments with similar soils. Consider especially those species that tolerate clay soils.
  • For sites exposed to increased heat load, choose species adapted to hot, dry climates that can also tolerate cool, wet winters.
  • Instead of installing large trees into limited sites, consider smaller trees or shrubs that can be arborized.
  • Be sure to protect soils with mulch, especially where foot traffic causes compaction.
  • Site considerations should always dictate plant selection.

For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scott’s web page at ​The Informed Gardener.

Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott Phd

Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott has a Ph.D. in Horticulture from Oregon State University and is an ISA Certified Arborist. She is Washington State University’s Extension Urban Horticulturist and an Associate Professor in the Department of Horticulture, and holds two affiliate Associate Professor positions at University of Washington.

She is the author of three books: the award-winning, horticultural myth-busting The Informed Gardener and The Informed Gardener Blooms Again, and Sustainable Landscapes and Gardens: Good Science – Practical Application, a comprehensive approach to the science behind urban horticulture and arboriculture.

Two other books are in progress: How Plants Work – A Gardener’s Guide to Plant Physiology (Timber Press) and an update of Art Kruckeberg’s seminal work Gardening with Native Plants (University of Washington Press). She has published extensively in the scientific literature magazines as well as in popular magazines such as American NurserymanOrganic Gardening, and Fine Gardening. She and three other academic colleagues host “The Garden Professors” blog and Facebook page, through which they educate and entertain an international audience.

This article was reprinted in The Michigan Landscape magazine, a publication of the Michigan Nursery & Landscape Association (MNLA.org).

Reprinted by permission to Sticks & Stones, June 2018

Eric Joy

Limited time – free local delivery

our Moffett

Take advantage of our industry-leading delivery service! We can deliver your plants, brick, or bulk items right to your jobsite - no need to rent a specialized vehicle - just let us handle it.

For two weeks this July we are offering FREE local delivery. From July 23rd to August 3rd, we will deduct up to $210 from your delivery charge. Our local area is highlighted in yellow on this map, but please check with your salesperson for details. (Click to zoom view)

Local delivery area

We have full-size semis and a smaller dump truck and each has easy-to-reach minimums to qualify for a delivery. There may be site access restrictions as well, so plan on discussing your needs with your salesperson so we can service you appropriately.

Semi Truck

Dump Truck

Plants

Pavers

$2000 minimum order

3 bundle
mix / match
 minimum


$35 Moffett fee if the tires touch the ground

$210 minimum;
$70 / hour

$140 minimum;
$70 / hour

Plants

Bulk

$1000 min to
 $2000 max order

Heavy stuff;
5 cu yd min to
10 cu yd max


Light stuff;
10 cu yd min to
20 cu yd max

$140 minimum;
$70 / hour

$35 flat charge inside the box

Present this coupon to receive your discount - delivery slots are limited, so book now! Your order must deliver between 7/23 and 8/3, 2018.

COUPON • FREE DELIVERY • JULY 2018

  • Up to $210 off your delivery charge
  • Order must deliver between 7/23 & 8/3
  • You must present this coupon
  • check
    This coupon has no cash value
  • check
    Limit one per company

Here’s the fine print: You, the contractor, are responsible for unloading the truck or trailer. Our driver is there to help, but you must have people and the proper equipment on site to unload the material.

Spotlight on ornamental conifers

obtusa aurea

Coniferous evergreen shrubs can be used for foundation plantings, hedges, screening, topiary or a stand-alone focal point, and if planted in the right location, they never disappoint. Narrow, wide, tall, or short and in shades of silvery blue to green to yellow, evergreen shrubs bring four-season appeal and must be included in any quality landscape design. 

Chamaecyparis brings many questions each year, and I’ll highlight some of our favorites.

Chamaecyperis obtusa - Hinoki Falsecypress: The obtusas have flattened sprays of arborvitae-like foliage. There are dozens of varieties available to the trade. These are the ones we try to carry every season.

C. obtusa ‘Aurea’: Full-size golden variety with spreading, graceful branches. The outer foliage is golden with a green interior. Can grow up to 12" per year. Use as a specimen or in a group as a focal point.

obtusa aurea

Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Aurea'

C. obtusa ‘Nana Aurea': Dwarf version of 'Aurea'. Slow growth rate of 1-6" per year. Maintains golden color all year long. High impact in a small package!

obtusa nana area

Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Nana Aurea'

C. obtusa ‘Crippsii’: Broadly conical with spreading branches and pendant sprays of bright, yellow foliage. Best in sunny or partially sunny areas. Good winter color. Excellent specimen. Growth rate up to 12" per year.

obtusa crippsii

Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Crippsii'

C. obtusa ‘Gracilis’: Broadly pyramidal and compact, the dark green lacy foliage is elegantly swirled. The rate is moderate, averaging 6-12" per year. It can reach 5-10' in ten years. Stunning specimen plant.

obtusa gracilis

Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Gracilis'

C. obtusa ‘Nana Gracilis’: Dwarf version of 'Gracilis', growing 1-6" per year. The rich green color makes it a focal point in any landscape design. An irregularly globose form that is beautiful pruned or natural. A favorite of bonsai artists.

obtusa nana gracilis

Chamacyparis obtusa 'Nana Gracilis'

Chamaecyparis pisifera - Threadleaf Falsecypress

C. pisifera ‘Filifera Aurea Nana’: This beauty is not a genuine dwarf, but a slow growing cultivar that can reach a height of six feet, though that is not common here in Michigan. Bright greenish-yellow to golden whip-like leaves and branches that grown into a haystack mound, this popular plant is hard to keep in stock!  ‘Golden Mop’ is a mutation of ‘Aurea Nana’ and a true dwarf. Other cultivars we carry are ‘Golden Charm’, ‘Golden Mop’, ‘King’s Gold’,  and ‘Lemon Thread’. We stock them all, but not all the time.

filifera aurea nana

Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Filifera Aurea Nana'

We are always looking for plants that will make your design stand out and these varieties deserve your attention:

Juniper chinensis ‘Daubs Frosted’: Light golden-yellow new growth matures to soft feathery bluish-green. We will have some this year on standard.

juniper daubs frosted

Juniperus chinensis 'Daub's Frosted'

Thuja plicata 'Whipcord': Hard to believe that this is an Arborvitae! 'Whipcord' is a dwarf selection of Western Red Cedar. It's a slow grower, getting only about 3' wide in ten years. The unsual whip-like branchlets give it a soft, mop-like appearance, making this a fun accent plant in the landscape.

thuja plicata whipcord

Thuja plicata 'Whipcord'

In closing, evergreen shrubs are an important element in any good landscape design. Next time you’re in the Plant Center have a look at the new varieties, and the great selection of ornamental conifers we carry. We are always looking for plants that will make your design stand out.

Clint Rasch

Don’t be “that” guy!

ingrown tags

On my commute to work I pass a recently landscaped site that has a lot of plants still sporting their plastic tags.

I say "recent" but I really mean SEVERAL MONTHS. Seeing those tags flapping in the wind really detracted from a very nice landscape job!

oak with tags

Nursery growers and re-wholesalers put tags on plants for identification, not for decoration. I can see leaving the tag on for a few days on a residential job so the homeowner knows what was planted. But you probably gave them a landscape plan with everything identified on it, making those bright plastic tags unnecessary. On some commercial jobs I’ve seen tags left on for years, until they weathered off. It's not a good look.

tags left on

Not only does the tag look bad, it is unhealthy for the plant. Plastic tags can girdle branches on trees, and large portions of smaller shrubs. I have personally removed tags that have become embedded in the bark as the plant grew. It does take a few extra minutes, but having your crew take those tags off will make your install look as professional as it should. Have them do this as the parting site-cleanup as they remove scraps of burlap, lengths of tagging ribbon, and snarls of tying twine. You want your client - and all his friends and neighbors - to admire your work without distraction.

tags left on
David Krajniak

Where the rubber hits the …dirt

knobby tire

There aren't too many landscapers that get by without a good wheelbarrow. This essential tool has been improved upon in many ways and there are a lot of variations these days. Modifications have been made to make the wheelbarrow even more versatile and user-friendly than ever before. Some features increase the weight capacity while others improve the stability and maneuverability of the traditional one-wheeled wheelbarrow.

Excavator wheelbarrow

One of our more popular wheelbarrows is the Excavator. The metal tub and all-welded frame makes it a real workhorse on landscape job sites. The front of the Excavator has a unique design that eliminates catching on the ground when maneuvering. Flat free tires are also available for sale that will fit this model.

Scenic dual wheel
Scenic single wheel

Another popular line are the Scenic Road models. These wheelbarrows have an extra thick high density polyethylene tub and extra thick lacquered ash handles. We carry one-wheeled 6 cubic foot and 8 cubic foot models, and a two-wheeled 10 cubic model for those really BIG jobs.

The 10 cubic has different tire options as well: standard, turf, and flat free.

We also sell replacement tires, wheels and handles in case a repair is needed. With a minimum of care a good wheelbarrow will give years of use.

Jim Guy

Bright ideas for 2018

Decostrand

Are you interested in boosting your sales and barely break a sweat? How about adding decorative lighting the easy way? Idea: add lighting to a patio, an outdoor kitchen, pergola, gazebo, deck or any outdoor living area. Here are two products that can enhance just about any project you have going - or refresh a completed one.

Decostrand from Halco Lighting Technologies is an LED-friendly weatherproof decorative lighting strand that can create a distinctive look to nearly any outdoor space. It operates from a standard, 3 prong 120 volt electrical outlet, so there’s no need to splice into an existing landscape lighting system, and is available in two lengths: 26’ with 12 lamp sockets, and 50’ with 25 sockets.

Reflector options

They are 100% LED compatible. You can lamp them with our 2 watt 150 lumen Halco lamps in either 2700k (natural white) or 2200k (warm white). Other lamps are available as special orders.

Decostrand by Halco

A variety of reflector options are available in antique brass, silver, copper, as well as textured bronze and black and multiple strands can be connected end-to-end up to ten strands, based on 4 watt LED lamps.

DecoStrands qualify to receive our current lighting tier discounts for additional savings.

Click here for the manufacturer fact sheet.


From Alliance lighting we bring you the iTimer (Intelligent Astronomical Timer). This little device can make something old seem new again, or satisfy a techie’s hunger for the next latest and greatest doo-dad to show off to the neighbors.

iTimer from Alliance

If you are familiar with Alliance’s Bluetooth I-Series transformers, then you’ll love this!  The iTimer has the same phone app driven technology as the Bluetooth transformers, but I call it a “plug and play”, which means you can plug any 120v electronic device (like a Decostrand, an Easy Pro Fountain pump, holiday strings of lights, maybe an old stereo in the garage, you get the idea…) and you will have the exact same options that the Bluetooth transformers have… all through your smartphone.  

Through the IT app, the unit synchronizes with the time in your region through the global astronomical clock. You may set up your device to turn on and off from sunset to sundown, or to operate for a set amount of hours per day, but in my opinion, the BEST option about this is that you can have it operate at specific times of the day, on whatever day you choose.

For example, let’s say that you want your device on at 7pm and off at 11pm Monday through Thursday, but you want it on from 8pm to 3am on Friday and Saturday, and on Sunday you'll take it easy on the neighbors and have it on at sunset and off after 6 hours. Yes, you can easily set up your iTimer this way. Another neat option: you can have turn your connected device on and off a little bit before sunrise and sunset, without ever updating the time. And of course, you can also control the power manually from your phone, regardless of what day or time it is.

But there is one more benefit that I’d like to add: if you have an existing landscape lighting system, you can still use the iTimer - simply set your system to the always ON setting, and plug the transformer into the iTimer.

Lighting by D. Reutter

These two products will have an immediate impact on both new projects and previously completed jobs. They are fairly inexpensive and easy to install and set up. Both of these products are set up on display and for demonstrations at our Hardscape Center, so please stop in and check them out.

David Reutter

Ultra Violet in 2018

Pantone Ultra Violet

Did you hear? The Pantone color of the Year is "Ultra Violet". Interestingly, both the Landscape Perennial of the Year and the 2018 Shrub of the Year feature violet tones in flower or leaf. Take a closer look, you won't be disappointed!

Purple, violet, lavender, or wine - this color brings in a whole new concept to plant choices and themes for spring. You can work this color into bold designs with yellows, whites, or reds, or create a soothing palette using grays and cream to soften. The choices are abundant when incorporating textures, shades, and different heights to the landscape.

Copyright Laurel Christensen

2018 Perennial Plant of the year - Alium ‘Millenium’

What a smart choice for spring. Deer and rabbit resistant but loved by butterflies and bees, this mounded compact allium is a beautiful addition to any landscape. 'Millenium' offers glossy green foliage and rosy purple 2” globe flowers with a maximum plant size at 20” x 15”. It is a perfect size to be a border plant, blend into rock gardens, or alone in a clump to offer texture and color. Easy to grow in moist soils, happy in part shade to full sun, and requires low water needs.

Proven Winners Weiglea Spilled Wine

2018 Landscape Plant of the Year- Weigela Spilled Wine®

This petite delight is a beauty in most landscapes. Dark wine-colored foliage pops against other plantings and structures. From the first leaves of spring the foliage remains dark and intense all season long. Not preferred by deer but enjoyed by butterflies and hummingbirds, the. tubular magenta flowers bloom for a long period beginning in late spring. Easy to grow, this compact bush measures 2-3’ tall x 2-4’ wide. This is an improved, compact version of the popular Wine & Roses® Weigela and the wide, low habit can be useful almost anywhere in the landscape.

Weigela Wine Series
Joanna Whitt

Bad Karma

PBJ

It has always seemed that many things were just meant to be. Peanut butter and jelly, perhaps the greatest love affair of all time. Romeo and Juliet, Desdemona and Othello, Mr. Darcy and Elizabeth, Ozzie and Harriet, Mork and Mindy, Gertrude and Heathcliffe, Joe and Kirsten, Bonnie and Clyde – the list is endless! But humanity is cursed with its fatal flaws. Peanut butter and jelly – they don’t really mix and the jelly oozes out the side of the bread. Romeo and Juliet are tragic star-crossed lovers. Othello has a serious problem with jealousy. Mr. Darcy and Elizabeth get past their pride issues, but eventually the book has to end. Ozzie and Harriet, as well as Mork and Mindy, get cancelled. Joe and Kirsten’s Days of Wine and Roses turns to Brandy Alexanders – not a good finish. And, a life of crime does not pay off for Bonnie and Clyde.

PBJ and R&J

Plants, or combinations of some plants, can have similar tragic results. Some planting designs look great but eventually nature unleashes it’s fatal flaw. The design of some landscapes brings out the worst in some plant varieties. A number of these ill-fated arborial marriages exist but the coexistence of pears and junipers requires our attention.

pyrus calleryana

The ubiquitous Callery Pears, strong and adaptive growers, are increasingly being bothered with Pear or Trellis Rust. To blame are junipers. And vice versa. Together they create a perfect storm scenario for the fungus, Gymnosporiangium fuscum. This is a dark, bare capsule on junipers which explodes with orange, jelly-like fingers during cold, wet springs. These galls cause dieback in junipers and rust colored spots and scabs on the leaves of pears as well as lesions on their branches. Proximate use of these plants is a marriage gone bad; under certain conditions they bring out their worst attributes.

Removal of affected plant material is part of the solution. Putting appropriate distances between host and parasite plants is another. Callery Pears are great trees for parking lots and streets where drier conditions prevent these fungal outbreaks. Systemic fungicide treatments are available. However, both groups of plants are fairly durable and recuperative. No matter how well they might look together their combination is just bad karma.

Plantings of Pears and Junipers are like the tit for tat relationship of Gertrude and Heathcliffe (if you’re not over 50 - look it up!). There is no real fatal flaw, but a lot of bumps and bruises along the way.

Please check out the linked article for more details.

Trellis Rust Management Update by Dr. David Roberts, MSU

Jeff Good