During the COVID-19 shutdown this spring, I was sitting on my porch on what was to be a beautiful day. It was early, and therefore quiet, and I heard a sound coming from my boxwood. I leaned in and distinctly heard what sounded like Rice Krispies in milk. Perplexed, I asked Google what was going on, and Google said, "leaf miners are eating the centers of your boxwood’s leaves". They were making quite a racket. They are either noisy eaters, or there were thousands of them. There was probably no time to lose, so I ignored it. 

A few weeks later I saw the damage to the leaves. They were wrinkling up and turning color. I split one leaf open, and inside were tiny orange maggots, from two to six in every leaf I checked. Now that I could see the little orange bastards, it pushed me into action. I asked google how to deal with them without resorting to pesticides. Google said, "you must resort to pesticides". Particularly, a systemic insecticide that would be taken up by the plant's roots and distributed to the leaves. I applied the systemic, but I was afraid I ignored it too long. They were probably stuffed and pupating and turning into adults. 

Two weeks later, my fears were confirmed. What looked like fat orange mosquitoes were flying in swarms around my boxwood, fornicating and laying eggs in the new leaves. The boxwood wouldn’t survive another generation of these Trump-colored vermin. But I was still loathe to use more insecticide. Hoover to the rescue. I took my vacuum cleaner out on the porch, and began vacuuming the mango scum, much to the dismay of my girlfriend who was awakened by the noise, and immediately questioned my sanity (not for the first or last time). To no avail, I explained my rationale about avoiding the use of insecticides that may harm beneficial insects. Verdict... I was a crazy person. I kept vacuuming. They just kept coming. After a while I went inside to take a nap. 

I woke to the sound of a vacuum cleaner. Yes, outside was my girlfriend vacuuming boxwood. We were both obsessed. This went on for nearly two weeks. The neighbors were too polite or too scared to mention our obsession, but I doubt the boxwood would have survived another season without the intervention, and they look well on their way to recovery. I have to admit though, it was a lot of effort for a few lousy boxwood.

These days I have a forty-minute commute to work, and I enjoy the progression of bloom through the season, of everything from landscape ornamentals to woodlots and farm fields. There is always something happening. There are some plants I would like to see less of, though.

In late May the purple, white and pink flowers of Hesperis matronalis, aka Dame's Rocket, bloom in abundance all up and down the roadsides and into fields and woodland edges. I love it, and I don't - it's invasive, having long ago escaped into the wild. It sows itself with abandon, soon forming vast colonies that crowd out and replace native plants. Related to Garlic Mustard, it spreads just as aggressively. If you like the look I would steer you to the tall phloxes, like P. paniculata or P. divaricata because we do not need any more of this plant. Don't get me started on Garlic Mustard, it's not even pretty.

But who says invasive plants *have* to be ugly? Here's another one that is a common sight in Michigan, Hemerocallis fulva, aka Ditch Lily. It's not a true lily, but a daylily, and not a neat clump-forming one, either. No, it spreads by rhizomes and forms large colonies filling the ditches on either side of roads all over the state. I like seeing the cheery orange flowers every summer but again, it's busily crowding out native plants. 'Kwanso' is a double form that is offered in the trade, it is not nearly as aggressive. 

One of the worst offenders is the notorious Lythrum salicaria, aka Purple Loosestrife. In spite of decades of trying to knock it back, by physical removal and the introduction of several species of beetle that eat it, it still occupies acres and acres of wetlands across the entire continent. None of our native animals or insects really need it for either food or shelter and I am personally over the obnoxious color of the flowers, too, because they just remind me of the futility of trying to put the Genie back into the bottle.

There was talk at one time that some of the named varieties were sterile or nearly so, but it turns out that they breed just fine with the wild ones. So even if you find it for sale, don't plant it. If you have it on your property, get rid of it. 

There are loads of invasive plants loose in Michigan, from Autumn Olive to Phragmites, Buckthorn to Spotted Knapweed, Multiflora Rose and Oriental bittersweet, to the honeysuckles - oh, boy, the honeysuckles... To all of them I say, hit the road! 

For more information about these and other invasives, check out these links!

• MSU Extension Field Guide to Invasive Plants - PDF
• Midwest Invasive Plant Network
• Michigan Invasive Species at Michigan.gov

There are so many options when adding lighting to your jobs - wash a wall with bullets, illuminate a path with tall hats, put ledge lights under the steps… but don't forget to look UP. Lighting draws one’s interest to noticing foliage, angles, and shadows. Fountains shimmer, boulders come alive, then one becomes entranced following the craggy trunk of a tree up into the branches.

Anyone can install outdoor lighting, but a truly captivating design that incorporates three dimensions is what's going to sell the project and have the neighbors asking for business cards.

Here’s how: Step back and look at the entire project area. Stand at the road or across it and observe the features of the home and landscape. You may want to note a few lines of sight to areas of focus such as porch pillars, dark corners, or structural trees. Also note the impact of existing light sources on the property and from neighboring homes or street lights. I like to take a screen shot from the satellite map on my phone to draw sight lines, then use the highlighter tool for light coverage areas, using different colors for existing and prospective.

After you have your general ideas plotted, move in closer. Where does the dog run and kids play? Where will people be sitting or cars be parked? Ask the customer how they plan to use the space. The more you are able to plan ahead, as with any job, the greater efficiency you'll have.

For seating areas, as fun as shadow charades may be, you don't want people irritated by a light in their eyes or to have a flood light-washed façade disrupted by a car parked close to the house. Most light fixtures stick up out of the ground, so placement is critical to avoid trip hazards. To highlight a tree trunk select a tight 10-15° beam spread. For more branches use a wider, more flood-like 30-40° pattern.

Bullet fixtures can target a specific object or be used farther away to illuminate a broader area. To really flood an area with light, a Sollos FRF058 or Alliance BL300 will do the trick. Pillars can have wall sconces like the WS200, and those confident to stray off of the instruction sheet can even mount a fixture up in a tree! Ask someone in our Hardscape building how to put a "tree loop" in your wiring so the installation will last as the tree grows.

Other options include lower profile well lights and in-ground fixtures, hanging fixtures, even rolls of tape lights. Check out Alliance's new line of color changing bluetooth fixtures for a customizable show-stopping display! With these new lights, a homeowner can change color for each season and show off to their friends as they slid their thumb around on their phone, changing the lights on a whim.

The possibilities are as endless as your imagination. Search online for inspirational photos and videos or ask the sales team at Christensen's, "What can I do that's different?" In landscaping, our projects can keep us looking down at our work, but please, don't lose sight of what's UP!

I have been working in the industry a long time, and I have come to look at some plants as... lonely. Lonely maybe isn’t the word, but underappreciated isn't the correct word either. The sparkling Stellas and Endless Summers of the world are not lonely plants. Even plants like Clethra and Fothergilla are not lonely plants.

I do think of all Ilex as lonely but I think of the verticillatas - Michigan Holly - as the loneliest. They seem lonelier than glabras (Inkberry) for some reason. Unlike their loved big brothers who are evergreen with classic holly leaves, the verticillatas are considered old fashioned and without much flair. BUT LET ME TELL YOU! There are some new cultivars and hybrids on the market, and they will make you wish all Ilex were deciduous because, “The berries are where it’s AT!”

The older varieties like  ‘Winter Red’ and ‘Sparkleberry‘ are awesome when the leaves drop and the best berry display is in view. But these older varieties can get a little leggy and out of control if they are not maintained. The older cultivars also have men in their lives that get unruly after a while - go figure!

There are several breeding programs that excite me.

• Berry Poppins®: How about heavy berries, (read COPIOUS) on a 4' tall dwarf plant, perfectly sized for the landscape. The berries are large and an orange-red in color. The leaves also drop a little earlier than other hollies for a longer display. The pollinator is... are you ready? Mr. Poppins®. 

• Berry Heavy® Red: bred for better bearing (copious again) and even longer persistence. The berries are bright red and nicely bunched along the stem. This one will reach 6-8’ in height. The pollinator is again, Mr. Poppins®. (He does get around, along with his friend 'Jim Dandy' who can help out with the pollination duties.) There is also a gold-berried version, Berry Heavy® Gold.

• Little Goblin® Red: this is a 4’ dwarf with extra-large red berries. Her pollinator is Little Goblin® Guy. There is also a orange berried variety in the Goblin series.

We are not always appreciative of new plants. Does that make them lonely? My opinion on these plants is that anything to bring the poor Michigan Holly into the spotlight is good. But I have also been watching these new varieties for a couple of years now and these are good plants and a welcome addition.

P.S. Part two may be on all the cool and awesome new Inkberry cultivars...

Some plantings are difficult.  Poor soil, deer, high ph, lack of irrigation, or a combination of some or all of these issues.  The more factors in combination, the more your plant list gets whittled down.  One of the plants you can count on to be available to use when the whittling is done is diervilla, or bush honeysuckle.

Diervilla grow in most soil conditions, all light conditions, and are deer and drought resistant. They all sport somewhat inconspicuous yellow flowers. The Kodiak® series, developed for the landscape, sport various leaf colors for more summer interest and are non invasive.  All of these colors, including amazing fall colors, are more intense the more sunlight the plant gets.

Kodiak® Black sports a blackish-purple leaf which contrasts well with the usually inconspicuous flowers.  Kodiak® Orange and Red are also available with hints of orange and red in the leaves.  The most intense fall color seems to come from Kodiak® Orange. 

These plants get between three and four feet tall and wide.  Their habit can be considered a little messy and leggy if left to grow naturally.  I like to prune them regularly to maintain a smaller size and encourage increased branching, but do it in late fall so as not to miss any of the fall color show. 

Diervilla is a tough plant for tough conditions, but the Kodiak® series gives you an attractive plant even when conditions aren't tough.

Social Distancing for... plants? Yes, you read that right.

Social distancing for plants has two distinct applications.

The first is to keep plants apart that simply don’t get along well. Examples include those affected by Cedar-Apple Rust such as crabs, hawthorn, and quince and their alternate hosts of Juniper (virginana, horizontalis, and scopulorum). The deciduous get orange spots on their leaves and early leaf droppage while junipers get galls. Similar to this is Pear Rust which affects our ornamental Asian Pears , Bradford, Cleveland, et al. This, too, is caused by over-planting and proximity to Juniper species. The results are similar to Cedar-Apple Rust. A more recent fungal problem exist with our boxwoods and pachysandra. While not alternating hosts, plantings of these as complementary may increase risk of Boxwood Blight. Some genera simply need some distance or even not being included in the same landscape altogether.

The second application of plant distancing is proper spacing. This requires planning and knowledge of plant size, growth rates, and growth habit. The first crime in planting I would call the model home or interior-decorator syndrome. The landscape is planted for the here and now. It has to look lush and lived-in – NOW. The result in a few years is usually a crowded, jungle-like landscape. Much of the original plant material will need to be pulled out. The second crime is a planting that looks nice but really does not reflect the true growth habit of what has been incorporated into the landscape. Remember the Colorado Blue Spruce on the corner of the house; thirty years later you cannot see the house. The development of columnar trees and evergreens has solved this problem. Also, the introduction of many dwarf or compact versions of the old standby varieties has expanded the pool of variety and color palette. Only people my age remember the old Vanicek Weigela (a monster) that yielded to W. fl. ‘Red Prince.’ And now, we have Weigela florida: ‘Wine and Roses, Fine Wine, Dark Horse, My Monet, et al.’ How small can they get?

The art and discipline of plant spacing depends on a great knowledge of plant growth rate and maintainable size. If a new landscape is developing nicely in about three to five years, then you did a good job of placement. Larger trees and evergreens can take around three years to really establish. This is evidenced by greatly increased leaf size and improved coloring in evergreens. From this point on you should see an increase in growth rate. Most woody ornamentals are filling in and exhibit much heavier blooms during this same time. Perennials and groundcovers establish showing very little top growth first season – the Iceberg Effect (roots first, then foliage and flowering the next season).

We are at the mercy of tag information which is far from perfect and landscape architectural drawings rendered by an industry with low plant knowledge. If you take your landscape installation seriously and are interested in long-term results, become familiar with nursery varieties as fast as you can and keep up with new introductions.

Welcome to summer! This time every year we find ourselves having the same conversation with lots of drivers picking up plant material.

This conversation revolves around putting a tarp over their load of plant material. There are two typical answers for this. “I forgot a tarp” or “I am only going a few miles.”

To be honest, we have a chuckle at both of these answers, and the reason for the chuckle is quite simple.

In the case of “I forgot”, we generally know what most of the nursery tarp inventory for most of our customers looks like as we see them often. This also means we know how many tarps the company owns. My favorite “I forgot” comes from a good friend of mine. I sold him a new tarp multiple times when he forgot. And every time he was mad as he knew there were about twenty tarps sitting unused at his shop.

The latter, “I am only going a few miles”, is not so funny. During summer temperatures, damage to the foliage while driving down the road at 50 mph (or more) happens in just a few miles. So really, any driving with the plant material un-tarped will damage the plant.

Here is the beg from Christensen’s. Please tarp everything when you leave our nursery. We will help you tarp your load!!

P.S. We will not accept anything as a return that left without a tarp on it.

We enjoy seeing our broadleaved evergreens survive year after year in spite of being punished by our long, cold, icy Michigan winters, don’t we? Did you notice that I didn’t say snowy? It seems like we haven’t had much snow in the past few years, doesn't it? Whether it’s Rhododendron, Azalea, or Pieris, that fresh pop of color is a welcome sight each spring. Then you have your Hollies, Boxwood, Mahonia and some of the Euonymus. Euonyminians? Euonymi?

But even finicky broadleaved evergreens can outgrow an area that they’ve called home for many years. Which brings us to the title of the article:

Can you transplant broadleaved evergreens?

Yes. But a little extra care is needed to safely move them to their new home.

• Do not transplant them in the heat of summer. Early spring and late summer into early fall is optimal for survival, when top growth slows but root growth is still active. Any nurseryman will tell you that transplanting broadleafs in the middle of July when it’s 90° plus for weeks is a death sentence. They may live, sure, but we will never recommend you doing it. Wait until late August – early September if at all possible.

• These plants have very shallow, fibrous root systems. When digging, focus more on the width versus the depth. You’ll still need some depth, believe me, but I would recommend going as wide as the plant itself, and then add some more. Easily an extra third of the plant. Get some burlap to help support the root ball while you are transferring it.

• After transplanting, apply Ferti-lome Root Stimulator and Plant Starter Solution. This product can reduce transplant shock and is safer to use than conventional fertilizers. You may also use a slow release fertilizer such as the organic Tone series (Plant Tone, Flower Tone, or Holly Tone) to help the healing process. You do not want to use any strong quick-release fertilizers at this time.

• Water, water, WATER! Water daily for at least two weeks, and please, for longer than one minute. Hit the foliage (not in the heat of the day), and especially soak the ground. Remember, they have shallow roots, so this will be absorbed quickly. Using a quality bark mulch is also a good idea.

Remember to site your broadleaved evergreen plants where they will be protected from winter sun such as the north or east side of a building or under a canopy of trees. Smaller-leaved specimens like boxwood are more forgiving when it comes to winter burn but know that it is a possibility in some situations.

We’re not talking about something not agreeing with you. We’re asking can plants pass on disease to humans?

Humans have a number of viruses in common with plants and animals. Three such families exist: the Bunyaviruses carried by insects (like mosquitoes, ticks and sandfly) causing the diseases Crimean-Congo Hemorrhagic Fever and Rift Valley Fever and rodents causing Hantavirus infections; the Rhabdovirus better known as rabies causing encephalitis; the Reoviruses which causes gastrointestinal and respiratory disease primarily in infants and young children.

Many of us have experienced dermatitis from poison ivy and other plants. People often misidentify plants and become sickened or even poisoned after ingesting. A fairly common disease throughout the world is Sporotrichosis caused by the fungus Sporothrix. This fungus exists in soils, plant debris, sphagnum moss, hay, and on rose thorns. It usually enters the body through small cuts or punctures from rose thorns ( sometime called the rose-gardener’s disease). It can manifest as small bumps or blisters at entry site, more seriously if breathed in it can cause a type of pneumonia, and if entry wound is near a lymph node it can become disseminated throughout the entire body.

Another common and opportunistic pathogen is Pseudomonas aeruginosa. It’s what causes soft rot in plants, fruits, and vegetables. It is especially dangerous for people with immunity deficiencies causing pneumonia, urinary tract infections, and oral infections. And, similar to the staph that causes MRSA it is antibiotic resistant. Much of what has been mentioned results in disease caused by the myotoxins produced by the bacterium.

More recently in France people have been showing symptoms of fever, aches, and pruritus (a systemic itching usually caused by a disease) after eating peppers with mild mottle virus (PMMoV). Viable virus has been found in salsas, powdered spices, and in the samples of hundreds of people. Viable tobacco mosaic virus has been found in the mucus and thoracic fluids of smokers.

In India tospoviruses causing tomato spotted wilt and groundnut bud necrosis are passed on by insects, thrips, and humans. Live virus is found in ripe tomatoes only to be eaten and passed on through ground and water. Begovirus which causes the tomato yellow leaf curl virus affects tomato production worldwide and, in turn, affects the insects that carry it by shortening their lifespan and their ability to reproduce.

So as you can see, plant diseases have many paths to make humans sick - but none of the pathogens has, of yet, crossed the line of entering the human cell. Plant diseases for now have no direct route as a human pathogen.

I love comedy, especially old fashioned slapstick like Charlie Chaplin, the Three Stooges, and Laurel and Hardy. Fun and silly, light hearted and easy to watch. Watching a character step on a rake that hits him in the head only to back up into another rake that also beans him. Then there’s the guy with the super long pipe swinging it near another guy on a step ladder and you just know what is going to happen next. The timing and choreography it takes to pull off these stunts is a thing of beauty.

But in all seriousness, safety is no laughing matter. It can be hard to plan and implement. It’s usually the first thing to go when you’re in a hurry, and the last thing you want to explain to the boss and doctor when you wind up injured. Nothing ruins a nice summer weekend like a broken anything! I am not here to preach of the importance of safety, everyone knows it. But I would like to share some things that I have learned from other contractors and owners that can help you in your work day.

Knives, we all have them. Mine is as dull as a brick, while the nursery guys across the street could perform surgery with theirs. How many times have we been in a hurry, distracted or lulled by repetitive motion until whoops! Instead, use a multipurpose snip (Fiskars makes a nice one). They can cut almost anything, very hard to slice a leg or arm with, and easier to use for long periods of time. Fatigue can definitely cut you down.

Garbage, it's unsightly and a nuisance. It’s also a byproduct of the process. I have a contractor that has about a dozen 5 gallon buckets throughout the jobsite. He likes bright orange ones that are highly visible. Great for empty water bottles, pulled weeds and other miscellaneous construction materials, and easy to load out at the end of the day.

Speaking of tools, there is a company that paints all of their tools bright orange! No mistaking whose shovel that is or where that shovel is. Hammers, rakes, knee pads, I mean everything! How much time would be saved if you never have to search for, wait where was I going with this?

Ah - the right tool for the right job. Can’t find my hammer, but I can pound this 10” long spike with my shovel. That always works out great. After they’re done for the day, the foreman of one particular company checks the trucks to ensure all the necessary equipment is there. This ensures accountability of the company’s property and readiness for tomorrow’s endeavor.

Good communication is huge when it comes to safety. Make sure that everyone knows what is going on. Take the time to talk to not just your employees, but to your customer and your customer’s neighbors. I know a guy who talks to anybody within hearing range, especially if they have children. People are curious, and they are not always very smart about feeding that curiosity, especially kids and animals. Another company sends out a flier, and has had great success with new leads from this.

Like the Granger commercials say, “It’s always safety season”. Let’s leave the slapstick to the pros.