A recent article by my coworker Matt reminded me of this old saying. It’s born of the experiences of many rock and perennial gardeners. Throughout the years gardeners have collected and experimented with plants, looking for ways to use plants not necessarily accustomed to their soil type or zone. Their answer, in part, was raised rock gardens. Not only aesthetically pleasing, this approach created mini-climates in small spaces much in the same way mountain ranges create dramatic changes in flora from ridge to ridge. Lush forests give way to arid deserts on opposing side of the same mountains.

Rocks and raised beds give plants good drainage. Many perennials in the North die, not from cold, but from excessively wet ground conditions. Perennials such as Dianthus, Lavandula, Gaura, Thymus, et al. thrive in their first plantings only to rot during their juvenile winters. Perennials with long tap-like roots such as Lupines, Hollyhock, Foxglove to name a few die from crown rot due to excessive surface moisture. The fence post problem – solid above and below the ground but rots off right at ground level.

Ground-covering plants like Sedums, Ajugas, Thymus run along filling the crevices, encouraged by the cool, moist conditions. The seed of many annuals and perennials find some of these same places to spend their first winter, where they experience death and rebirth in the stratifying process. A true, natural nursery.

Rocks help ease the stress of extreme temperature change. In the summer they create cool, moist conditions on their down side. In the winter they warm with the sun, giving roots some protection against the cold. Gardeners were often able to include plants that were a zone less hardy. This also works for woody ornamentals that are usually considered sub-shrubs such as Buddleia, Caryopteris, Callicarpa, Hypericum, Crape Myrtle, and more. These types of woodies experience varying degrees of dieback but recover well from roots and heavier wood. Even just tucking hand-sized rocks around the base of perennials and shrubs can give protection and anchor the late-planted.

So when it comes to planting, if you’re ever in doubt, just go get one.

Photos © Holly Christensen, except mountain scene (Storyblocks)

In recent years, I’ve often heard that we should leave the first round of dandelions to grow and flourish for the benefit of early food for bees. You don’t need to tell me not to mow… done! That’s an easy way to help out our little winged friends.

As the movement to promote bees increases, it’s a good idea to have a pollinator plan ready for customers interested in this topical form of conservation.

For starters, since honeybees begin foraging when temperatures approach 50°, your plan needs to begin early. Minor bulbs such as Crocus, Winter Aconite, Snowdrops and Chionodoxa are valuable food sources on those first warm spring days when little is in flower. A few weeks later the Red Maples pitch in, followed by showy spring bloomers like Forsythia, Redbud, Amelanchier and Magnolia.

Mid-to-late spring has no shortage of excellent choices, as most of our ornamentals bloom then. As things taper off into summer, Monarda, Dianthus, and Echinacea offer long blooming periods that keep the bees happy. Late summer is more challenging but Rose of Sharon and Caryopteris are two species that bloom almost into autumn.

At the tail end of the season plants like Aster, Helianthus and Sedum are excellent fall bloomers. The beginning and end of the season are the most critical, as there are fewer food sources than during the peak of the season. If you’ve incorporated annuals into your design so much the better as they will go until either killed by frost or removed.

Color theory is both an incredibly simple and an undeniably complex concept. In the most basic sense, it is the art and science of using color.

The three fundamental tenets are the color wheel, color harmony, and color context. Using these tenets you can create a vibrant and well-balanced landscape that influences the mindset of the viewer. Read on for some examples.

The color wheel

Let's begin with the color wheel. You have your primary colors of red, yellow, and blue. Each primary color has many representatives in the landscape whether it’s the electrifying red of a Crocosmia 'Lucifer', the sunny yellow of Hypericum, or the cool blue of Delphinum, blue spruce, or the exotic Meconopsis. Next up you have your secondary colors: green, orange and purple. Obviously there’s no shortage of green in the landscape, from the uniform green of an oak tree, to the variegated green of the Hosta 'Guacamole'. Orange is slightly more difficult to find. Butterfly Weed, Echinacea, and Daylily come to mind. Don't overlook plants that bear bright orange berries, such as Little Goblin® Orange Winterberry Holly. Purple is an easy find, from flowers like Iris, Phlox, and Campanula or foliage of Cotinus, Weigela, Heuchera, and Ninebark. So many options.

Color harmony

Color harmony can be a difficult thing to achieve. In essence it engages the viewer and creates an inner sense of order. Basing your color scheme on complimentary color pairs such as red/green, yellow/purple, or blue/orange creates contrast and stability. Or you might choose analogous colors, meaning colors that are side by side on the color wheel. Typically with an analogous color scheme, one color will dominate, one color will support, and one color will accent. So combining say, a bright DoublePlay® Candy Corn® Spirea (yellow-orange), Hyperion Daylilies (yellow), and 'Frances Williams' Hosta  (yellow-green) creates a wonderful gradient that works well together. Use a primary color to draw the eye to a focal point and two tertiary colors to add dimension.

Another option is using triadic colors, where the colors are spaced equally around the color wheel, for example: 'Ruby Spice' Clethra (pink), Vinca (periwinkle), and Aruncus (cream). Triadic color schemes make each individual item stand out yet still feel balanced.

Color context

Using color to create context in the landscape is relatively simple when you know what each color reflects. Warm colors (colors created using red and yellow) reflect happiness and energy. The color red itself has been show to raise blood pressure and respiration in humans and can have an overwhelming effect if used improperly. Yellow conveys a sense of happiness and permanence. Cool colors typically convey relaxation and calm. Green is a very stable color and can add harmony to most color schemes. Shades of blue can vary greatly from calming to strong and reliable. Purple is associated with creativity and imagination in most of the world, and is also widely recognized as the color of royalty.

During the COVID-19 shutdown this spring, I was sitting on my porch on what was to be a beautiful day. It was early, and therefore quiet, and I heard a sound coming from my boxwood. I leaned in and distinctly heard what sounded like Rice Krispies in milk. Perplexed, I asked Google what was going on, and Google said, "leaf miners are eating the centers of your boxwood’s leaves". They were making quite a racket. They are either noisy eaters, or there were thousands of them. There was probably no time to lose, so I ignored it. 

A few weeks later I saw the damage to the leaves. They were wrinkling up and turning color. I split one leaf open, and inside were tiny orange maggots, from two to six in every leaf I checked. Now that I could see the little orange bastards, it pushed me into action. I asked google how to deal with them without resorting to pesticides. Google said, "you must resort to pesticides". Particularly, a systemic insecticide that would be taken up by the plant's roots and distributed to the leaves. I applied the systemic, but I was afraid I ignored it too long. They were probably stuffed and pupating and turning into adults. 

Two weeks later, my fears were confirmed. What looked like fat orange mosquitoes were flying in swarms around my boxwood, fornicating and laying eggs in the new leaves. The boxwood wouldn’t survive another generation of these Trump-colored vermin. But I was still loathe to use more insecticide. Hoover to the rescue. I took my vacuum cleaner out on the porch, and began vacuuming the mango scum, much to the dismay of my girlfriend who was awakened by the noise, and immediately questioned my sanity (not for the first or last time). To no avail, I explained my rationale about avoiding the use of insecticides that may harm beneficial insects. Verdict... I was a crazy person. I kept vacuuming. They just kept coming. After a while I went inside to take a nap. 

I woke to the sound of a vacuum cleaner. Yes, outside was my girlfriend vacuuming boxwood. We were both obsessed. This went on for nearly two weeks. The neighbors were too polite or too scared to mention our obsession, but I doubt the boxwood would have survived another season without the intervention, and they look well on their way to recovery. I have to admit though, it was a lot of effort for a few lousy boxwood.

These days I have a forty-minute commute to work, and I enjoy the progression of bloom through the season, of everything from landscape ornamentals to woodlots and farm fields. There is always something happening. There are some plants I would like to see less of, though.

In late May the purple, white and pink flowers of Hesperis matronalis, aka Dame's Rocket, bloom in abundance all up and down the roadsides and into fields and woodland edges. I love it, and I don't - it's invasive, having long ago escaped into the wild. It sows itself with abandon, soon forming vast colonies that crowd out and replace native plants. Related to Garlic Mustard, it spreads just as aggressively. If you like the look I would steer you to the tall phloxes, like P. paniculata or P. divaricata because we do not need any more of this plant. Don't get me started on Garlic Mustard, it's not even pretty.

But who says invasive plants *have* to be ugly? Here's another one that is a common sight in Michigan, Hemerocallis fulva, aka Ditch Lily. It's not a true lily, but a daylily, and not a neat clump-forming one, either. No, it spreads by rhizomes and forms large colonies filling the ditches on either side of roads all over the state. I like seeing the cheery orange flowers every summer but again, it's busily crowding out native plants. 'Kwanso' is a double form that is offered in the trade, it is not nearly as aggressive. 

One of the worst offenders is the notorious Lythrum salicaria, aka Purple Loosestrife. In spite of decades of trying to knock it back, by physical removal and the introduction of several species of beetle that eat it, it still occupies acres and acres of wetlands across the entire continent. None of our native animals or insects really need it for either food or shelter and I am personally over the obnoxious color of the flowers, too, because they just remind me of the futility of trying to put the Genie back into the bottle.

There was talk at one time that some of the named varieties were sterile or nearly so, but it turns out that they breed just fine with the wild ones. So even if you find it for sale, don't plant it. If you have it on your property, get rid of it. 

There are loads of invasive plants loose in Michigan, from Autumn Olive to Phragmites, Buckthorn to Spotted Knapweed, Multiflora Rose and Oriental bittersweet, to the honeysuckles - oh, boy, the honeysuckles... To all of them I say, hit the road! 

For more information about these and other invasives, check out these links!

• MSU Extension Field Guide to Invasive Plants - PDF
• Midwest Invasive Plant Network
• Michigan Invasive Species at Michigan.gov

There are so many options when adding lighting to your jobs - wash a wall with bullets, illuminate a path with tall hats, put ledge lights under the steps… but don't forget to look UP. Lighting draws one’s interest to noticing foliage, angles, and shadows. Fountains shimmer, boulders come alive, then one becomes entranced following the craggy trunk of a tree up into the branches.

Anyone can install outdoor lighting, but a truly captivating design that incorporates three dimensions is what's going to sell the project and have the neighbors asking for business cards.

Here’s how: Step back and look at the entire project area. Stand at the road or across it and observe the features of the home and landscape. You may want to note a few lines of sight to areas of focus such as porch pillars, dark corners, or structural trees. Also note the impact of existing light sources on the property and from neighboring homes or street lights. I like to take a screen shot from the satellite map on my phone to draw sight lines, then use the highlighter tool for light coverage areas, using different colors for existing and prospective.

After you have your general ideas plotted, move in closer. Where does the dog run and kids play? Where will people be sitting or cars be parked? Ask the customer how they plan to use the space. The more you are able to plan ahead, as with any job, the greater efficiency you'll have.

For seating areas, as fun as shadow charades may be, you don't want people irritated by a light in their eyes or to have a flood light-washed façade disrupted by a car parked close to the house. Most light fixtures stick up out of the ground, so placement is critical to avoid trip hazards. To highlight a tree trunk select a tight 10-15° beam spread. For more branches use a wider, more flood-like 30-40° pattern.

Bullet fixtures can target a specific object or be used farther away to illuminate a broader area. To really flood an area with light, a Sollos FRF058 or Alliance BL300 will do the trick. Pillars can have wall sconces like the WS200, and those confident to stray off of the instruction sheet can even mount a fixture up in a tree! Ask someone in our Hardscape building how to put a "tree loop" in your wiring so the installation will last as the tree grows.

Other options include lower profile well lights and in-ground fixtures, hanging fixtures, even rolls of tape lights. Check out Alliance's new line of color changing bluetooth fixtures for a customizable show-stopping display! With these new lights, a homeowner can change color for each season and show off to their friends as they slid their thumb around on their phone, changing the lights on a whim.

The possibilities are as endless as your imagination. Search online for inspirational photos and videos or ask the sales team at Christensen's, "What can I do that's different?" In landscaping, our projects can keep us looking down at our work, but please, don't lose sight of what's UP!

I have been working in the industry a long time, and I have come to look at some plants as... lonely. Lonely maybe isn’t the word, but underappreciated isn't the correct word either. The sparkling Stellas and Endless Summers of the world are not lonely plants. Even plants like Clethra and Fothergilla are not lonely plants.

I do think of all Ilex as lonely but I think of the verticillatas - Michigan Holly - as the loneliest. They seem lonelier than glabras (Inkberry) for some reason. Unlike their loved big brothers who are evergreen with classic holly leaves, the verticillatas are considered old fashioned and without much flair. BUT LET ME TELL YOU! There are some new cultivars and hybrids on the market, and they will make you wish all Ilex were deciduous because, “The berries are where it’s AT!”

The older varieties like  ‘Winter Red’ and ‘Sparkleberry‘ are awesome when the leaves drop and the best berry display is in view. But these older varieties can get a little leggy and out of control if they are not maintained. The older cultivars also have men in their lives that get unruly after a while - go figure!

There are several breeding programs that excite me.

• Berry Poppins®: How about heavy berries, (read COPIOUS) on a 4' tall dwarf plant, perfectly sized for the landscape. The berries are large and an orange-red in color. The leaves also drop a little earlier than other hollies for a longer display. The pollinator is... are you ready? Mr. Poppins®. 

• Berry Heavy® Red: bred for better bearing (copious again) and even longer persistence. The berries are bright red and nicely bunched along the stem. This one will reach 6-8’ in height. The pollinator is again, Mr. Poppins®. (He does get around, along with his friend 'Jim Dandy' who can help out with the pollination duties.) There is also a gold-berried version, Berry Heavy® Gold.

• Little Goblin® Red: this is a 4’ dwarf with extra-large red berries. Her pollinator is Little Goblin® Guy. There is also a orange berried variety in the Goblin series.

We are not always appreciative of new plants. Does that make them lonely? My opinion on these plants is that anything to bring the poor Michigan Holly into the spotlight is good. But I have also been watching these new varieties for a couple of years now and these are good plants and a welcome addition.

P.S. Part two may be on all the cool and awesome new Inkberry cultivars...

Some plantings are difficult.  Poor soil, deer, high ph, lack of irrigation, or a combination of some or all of these issues.  The more factors in combination, the more your plant list gets whittled down.  One of the plants you can count on to be available to use when the whittling is done is diervilla, or bush honeysuckle.

Diervilla grow in most soil conditions, all light conditions, and are deer and drought resistant. They all sport somewhat inconspicuous yellow flowers. The Kodiak® series, developed for the landscape, sport various leaf colors for more summer interest and are non invasive.  All of these colors, including amazing fall colors, are more intense the more sunlight the plant gets.

Kodiak® Black sports a blackish-purple leaf which contrasts well with the usually inconspicuous flowers.  Kodiak® Orange and Red are also available with hints of orange and red in the leaves.  The most intense fall color seems to come from Kodiak® Orange. 

These plants get between three and four feet tall and wide.  Their habit can be considered a little messy and leggy if left to grow naturally.  I like to prune them regularly to maintain a smaller size and encourage increased branching, but do it in late fall so as not to miss any of the fall color show. 

Diervilla is a tough plant for tough conditions, but the Kodiak® series gives you an attractive plant even when conditions aren't tough.

Social Distancing for... plants? Yes, you read that right.

Social distancing for plants has two distinct applications.

The first is to keep plants apart that simply don’t get along well. Examples include those affected by Cedar-Apple Rust such as crabs, hawthorn, and quince and their alternate hosts of Juniper (virginana, horizontalis, and scopulorum). The deciduous get orange spots on their leaves and early leaf droppage while junipers get galls. Similar to this is Pear Rust which affects our ornamental Asian Pears , Bradford, Cleveland, et al. This, too, is caused by over-planting and proximity to Juniper species. The results are similar to Cedar-Apple Rust. A more recent fungal problem exist with our boxwoods and pachysandra. While not alternating hosts, plantings of these as complementary may increase risk of Boxwood Blight. Some genera simply need some distance or even not being included in the same landscape altogether.

The second application of plant distancing is proper spacing. This requires planning and knowledge of plant size, growth rates, and growth habit. The first crime in planting I would call the model home or interior-decorator syndrome. The landscape is planted for the here and now. It has to look lush and lived-in – NOW. The result in a few years is usually a crowded, jungle-like landscape. Much of the original plant material will need to be pulled out. The second crime is a planting that looks nice but really does not reflect the true growth habit of what has been incorporated into the landscape. Remember the Colorado Blue Spruce on the corner of the house; thirty years later you cannot see the house. The development of columnar trees and evergreens has solved this problem. Also, the introduction of many dwarf or compact versions of the old standby varieties has expanded the pool of variety and color palette. Only people my age remember the old Vanicek Weigela (a monster) that yielded to W. fl. ‘Red Prince.’ And now, we have Weigela florida: ‘Wine and Roses, Fine Wine, Dark Horse, My Monet, et al.’ How small can they get?

The art and discipline of plant spacing depends on a great knowledge of plant growth rate and maintainable size. If a new landscape is developing nicely in about three to five years, then you did a good job of placement. Larger trees and evergreens can take around three years to really establish. This is evidenced by greatly increased leaf size and improved coloring in evergreens. From this point on you should see an increase in growth rate. Most woody ornamentals are filling in and exhibit much heavier blooms during this same time. Perennials and groundcovers establish showing very little top growth first season – the Iceberg Effect (roots first, then foliage and flowering the next season).

We are at the mercy of tag information which is far from perfect and landscape architectural drawings rendered by an industry with low plant knowledge. If you take your landscape installation seriously and are interested in long-term results, become familiar with nursery varieties as fast as you can and keep up with new introductions.

Welcome to summer! This time every year we find ourselves having the same conversation with lots of drivers picking up plant material.

This conversation revolves around putting a tarp over their load of plant material. There are two typical answers for this. “I forgot a tarp” or “I am only going a few miles.”

To be honest, we have a chuckle at both of these answers, and the reason for the chuckle is quite simple.

In the case of “I forgot”, we generally know what most of the nursery tarp inventory for most of our customers looks like as we see them often. This also means we know how many tarps the company owns. My favorite “I forgot” comes from a good friend of mine. I sold him a new tarp multiple times when he forgot. And every time he was mad as he knew there were about twenty tarps sitting unused at his shop.

The latter, “I am only going a few miles”, is not so funny. During summer temperatures, damage to the foliage while driving down the road at 50 mph (or more) happens in just a few miles. So really, any driving with the plant material un-tarped will damage the plant.

Here is the beg from Christensen’s. Please tarp everything when you leave our nursery. We will help you tarp your load!!

P.S. We will not accept anything as a return that left without a tarp on it.