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Fall at the Nursery

Who can be thinking about fall when temps remain in the 70s and 80s?  

Even with summer weather hanging on, there are plenty of signs of fall at Christensen's. Trees in the field and some plants in the shrub blocks have been putting on a show recently, turning on their fall colors. Soon, they’ll be dropping their leaves, and we’ll be selling you structure. 

Why do plants turn so much earlier at the nursery than those “in the wild”? It’s because they are not properly planted. Without the resources from the ground, plants must begin conserving energy sooner to prepare for winter.

Autumn is a time when the plants are adjusting to cooler weather. Many perennials and shrubs are starting to enter their dormant stage for winter.  As we get deeper into fall, material such as grass and perennials is cut back. We promise, there is a plant in that pot of dirt labeled “Hosta”.

Even while existing inventory is preparing for fall, fresh products are still arriving. We are excited for fall trees to start arriving in a few more weeks! They should have leaves when they arrive. We expect to ship:

  • Amelanchier (service berry)
  • Most Malus
  • Linden (Little Leaf)
  • Ginkgos
  • Pear
  • Maples such as Crimson King, Crimson Sunset and Autumn Blaze

Wishing you all a Happy Fall season!

Mixed Load Deliveries

Smarter Deliveries, Smoother Jobs

In landscaping, timing and coordination are everything. One late pallet can throw off your crew and cost you money. That’s why Christensen’s Plant and Hardscape Centers stocks plants, hardscape, drainage, and lighting—and can deliver them together!

Mixed loads save headaches:

  • One ETA, one invoice, one vendor
  • Less downtime waiting on material
  • Allows more time for plant placement, leading to “upsell” opportunities.

Our shipping team makes sure plants stay protected, hardscape stays tight, and moisture-sensitive products are packed where they’ll stay dry.

Pictured here is the flatbed trailer. Once the material is safely loaded, the Shipping Department carefully tarps before leaving the yard.

Christensen's Shipping Department has several types of trailers, perfect for mixed loads.

Pictured here is the Conestoga, along with "Driver Dave", loading a box of drain supplies.

Tips to help deliveries, and your jobsites, run smoothly

  • Store plants in a water-accessible area, with shade if possible.
  • Store adhesives and polymeric sand in a dry area, such as inside a truck or trailer.
  • Stage materials in the order your crew will install them, moving items as few times as possible.

Your partner in sourcing premium materials

When a contractor designs projects mindful of the materials stocked at Christensen’s, it prevents delays and simplifies reorders. This, in turn, improves consistency and keeps projects moving. It also adds the potential of a single delivery.

At the end of the day, single-source purchasing isn’t just convenient, it’s strategic. Let Christensen’s Plant and Hardscape Centers manage the logistics, so your crew can focus on creating landscapes that impress.

Designing with Natives

White Pine, Iris versicolor, Prairie Dropseed, and American Beech in Southern Lower Michigan

When designing landscapes in Southern Lower Michigan (West Central/East Central/Southwest/Southeast), native plants offer unmatched ecological benefits and timeless beauty. Four species in particular—White Pine, Iris versicolor, Prairie Dropseed, and American Beech—stand out for their versatility, habitat value, and ability to root designs firmly in place. Each of these plants is native to the region, making them both resilient and ecologically significant.

The Eastern White Pine (Pinus strobus), Michigan’s state tree, is a towering symbol of strength and heritage. Historically, it was prized for lumber, shaping much of the state’s economic development. In landscapes, its tall, soft-needled form provides year-round structure and shade. White Pines are excellent for screening, windbreaks, or as specimen trees in large open areas. Their adaptability to sandy soil and cool Michigan winters makes them a low-maintenance choice for long-term plantings.

Thriving along wetlands, pond edges, and moist soils, the Blue Flag Iris (Iris versicolor) is a native perennial with vibrant purple-blue blooms in late spring to early summer. Beyond its beauty, it provides nectar for native pollinators and functions as a natural water filter, stabilizing soil along shorelines. For designed landscapes, Iris versicolor adds color and seasonal interest, particularly in rain gardens or bioswales where water management is key.

The fine-textured, clumping grass of Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepsis) is one of the most graceful prairie species native to Southern Michigan. Its fountain-like foliage turns golden in fall, releasing a subtle, coriander-like fragrance as seeds mature. Prairie Dropseed is ideal for mass plantings, borders, and sustainable lawn alternatives. Deep root systems make it drought-tolerant and excellent for soil stabilization. Additionally, its seeds feed small birds, while its foliage provides shelter for insects and ground-nesting wildlife.

The American Beech (Fagus grandiflora) adds an elegant, long-lived presence to woodlands and landscapes. Known for its smooth, gray bark and glossy, serrated leaves that turn golden-bronze in fall, it provides year-round interest. In natural ecosystems, Beech nuts are an important food source for birds, squirrels, and other wildlife. While it thrives in rich, well-drained soil, it is slower growing, making it best suited for parks, large gardens, or naturalized woodland plantings.

Why Do Natives Matter?

These four species together represent the ecological and aesthetic diversity of Southern Lower Michigan. From the towering canopy of White Pine and Beech to the ground-level beauty of Iris and Prairie Dropseed, they illustrate how layered plantings create resilient, dynamic landscapes. Using native plants supports pollinators, improves soil health, conserves water, and connects landscapes to Michigan’s natural heritage.

For landscapers and homeowners alike, designing with natives like these ensures that plantings not only look beautiful, but also function as part of a larger, living system. By choosing White Pine, Iris versicolor, Prairie Dropseed, or American Beech, we help preserve the unique ecological identity of Southern Lower Michigan—one thoughtful planting at a time.

Information for this article was obtained from the following website: www.canr.msu.edu/nativeplants/plant_facts/local_info/south_lower_peninsula

Fall Bulbs

At Christensen’s, there are flowering plants for every season. Springtime showcases Forsythia and Creeping Phlox. Summer highlights just about everything from Peony to Echinacea and Hydrangea. And fall shines a spotlight on Mums, Sedum Autumn Joy, and spectacular fall grass blooms. But what if you could plant something in fall that gave you the earliest of spring blooms?! Fall bulbs make this possible. Fall bulbs include varieties such as Narcissus, Crocus, Tulips, and “unusuals” like Hyacinth, Allium, Muscari and Fritallaria.

The best time to plant fall bulbs in Michigan is in October, or before the ground freezes. Minimum soil temperatures must be in the 40-50 degree range so that the bulbs can establish roots before winter. It is important to find a nice, sunny spot with well-drained soil. Most varieties prefer full sun but would tolerate some partial shade. Bulbs should be planted 4-6” deep (pointy side up, flat side down). It is also helpful to cover with mulch for extra protection from animal damage and for extra insulation from the harsh Michigan winter.

Put on your creative hat since fall bulbs provide endless possibilities! I will share some of my favorites but there are many other options!

Tulips come in every color you can imagine, with different spring bloom times. Keep it classic with varieties like Red Emperor, Pink Impression, or Golden Parade. Or mix it up with Darwin Hybrid Mix, Emperor Mix, or Lily Flowering Mix to give you blooms of multiple colors. You can also stagger bloom times so that when one is done blooming, there is another to follow.

When it comes to Narcissus, or Daffodils, there are many options to choose from. The stunning Yellow Dutch Master, Yellow Cheerfulness, and February Gold are certainly the stand outs. But these cuties come in many looks, cup sizes, and even some bunch-flowering varieties.


The smallest, and first bulbs to bloom are the Crocuses. These delicate, purple flowers are often seen blooming in the snow! If you are looking for early spring activity, then Crocus may be for you!!

If you are looking for something a little less common, check out our “unusuals”, with my favorites being the Hyacinths. Coming in many colors, these bright, tubular flowers are the most fragrant of the spring bloomers. (Seriously, they smell AMAZING). Also known for their smell, we also carry Allium Bulbs. Their large purple and white blooms are hard to miss, and their height gives some dimension to your garden.

Your options are endless when it comes to fall bulbs. Have fun with it, get creative, and plant something in fall that will surprise you in the spring! Christensen’s bulb flyer is available on our website, www.christensensplantcenter.com (Password:6282cpc). Early order pricing is available, with a deposit, through September 3rd. Don’t see what you are looking for? Our sales team is here to help you find exactly what you need! There are plenty more varieties available than what is listed in the bulb flyer.

Water Wars

Every year, our local high school seniors organize what has affectionately been named “Water Wars”.  A non-school activity, it is effectively a huge water balloon and squirt gun fight, all done in the spirit of good, clean fun. That event got me thinking of Landscape Water Wars”.

“Landscape Water Wars” is also an annual occurrence that starts around July 4th, when Christensen’s starts receiving numerous phone calls regarding plants that have defoliated or declined. The week after the holiday tends to be when we receive the most phone calls since it’s usually one of the first, really, hot weekends. Many times, it’s also a long weekend, leaving plants to rely on new irrigation systems for the first time without much attention.

So, I thought I would take a moment to give everyone a friendly reminder to pass along to your homeowners and building managers.

New plantings need a thorough watering every two to three days for the first month or two. Moving from pot to landscaping is stressful and they need to be weaned from the scheduled watering they receive at the nursery. At Christensen's, plants are watered a minimum of twice a day. This is what plants are used to, making the weaning process very important.

  • Water slow enough that the water does not run off, and long enough to get the newly planted root ball wet. For the first month, the roots are only in the root ball. As a result, this is the only place where the plant will get water.
  • The ever-popular Hydrangea will be the first indicator of a lack of water. Hydrangeas will wilt within 24 hours of insufficient water and drop leaves within 3-4 days. Keep an eye on these to see if your landscape needs water.

After the first two months, watering may be reduced to every five to seven days, depending on the air temperature and the amount of wind we have experienced.

Over-watering can be just as problematic. Unfortunately, it presents with many of the same symptoms as under-watering. So, watering needs to be measured and monitored.

All of you, our awesome contractors, install such beautiful landscapes for your clients. It kills me to see them injured or destroyed by something so preventable. 

I suggest incorporating plant care and homeowner education into every job, so your projects thrive, and your clients continue to celebrate their new landscape.

Bring on the Blooms!!

Can you really have too much of a good thing? Of course!  I can think of many times I’ve eaten myself sick on foods that I rarely get a chance to eat. (Most notably, crawfish in New Orleans… It just tastes better in the French Quarter)

But too many flowers?  Nah, never!  Many years ago, when I heard gardeners complaining about Reblooming Lilacs, the arguments sounded like a kitten growling at an elephant. Why would you bemoan a beloved plant blooming long past its season? A direct quote from one article is “But who wants a lilac up the nose when they’d otherwise be carving pumpkins?” The short answer is, “A lot of people!”

If your customers would love to experience lilacs all season, plant Bloomerang® Syringa.

To maximize the flourish, follow this specific pruning schedule.

  • Do not prune them before the first flush in the spring.  Since they flower on old wood, they set their first buds on the previous year’s growth.
  • After the spring bloom, there’s a window of about 6 weeks before the next flush.  This is the optimal time to cut back a Bloomerang bush. The trim will encourage new growth and this is where the strong re-flush comes from.

However, be sure to manage expectations.  Yes, they re-bloom, but they never reach the full spring flush.  The second flush is enhanced by pruning. But afterwards, the flowers are best described as sporadic.

What about a plant that obscures all the foliage with flowers making it look fake?

Bobo® Hydrangea…I’ve seen the marketing pictures of this plant, but I’ve also experienced it in real life. And, let me tell you, the pictures don’t show how full of color the plant is in the garden. The best description I can come up with is…Unreal. The plant looks like a vase jammed full of mophead, clean-white flowers.  Do you need to have foliage to make a plant look nice?  I know flower shop employees that create arrangements would staunchly say that adding greenery is important.

I disagree.  There’s no such thing as too many flowers.

Adding these stunners to your designs ensures that your customers feel the ‘Wow!’ factor without a lot of work or taking up a lot of space (it’s a dwarf panicle hydrangea).

Pruning Bobo® Hydrangea also encourages new blooms. Consider giving your customers’ Bobos a trim during dormancy (Late fall-winter).  I say trim because taking just 1/3 off the top and shaping up the plant is optimal.  You can prune them to the ground (like some roses) and they will come back nicely. But it is certainly not necessary, especially with such a compact plant.

As I wrote this article, the song “Too Much Fun” by Daryle Singletary kept running through my mind.  I think ole Daryle said it best with the lyrics, “Too much fun, what’s that mean? It’s like too much money, there’s no such thing… …No matter what they say, I’ve done, but I ain’t never had too much fun.” Now, replace “fun” with “bloom”.

Marci McIntosh

Leave the Leaves!

At the risk of sounding lazy, (this is my second article arguing for less work on behalf of pollinators) I’d like to encourage you to talk to your customers about a modified fall cleanup.  Now, before you tell me that fall clean-up is a healthy revenue stream for you, hear me out…

Environmentalism used to be considered a passing fad, merely a trend that would swing in the opposite direction given enough time.  However, as the years have progressed, environmental consciousness has grown into a common practice among many of the younger generations.  While the Boomer generation tends to be split, each generation following tends to have a higher awareness and commitment to the environment. Therefore, a sound business strategy includes incorporating environmentally friendly practices into your business plan as a long-term growth strategy to keep your clientele from aging out of your services.

So now that I’ve argued the business sense around this strategy, let me give you the environmental impact of leaving the leaves:

Many pollinators and other beneficial insects overwinter in or below organic debris. Leaving a layer can help bees, butterflies, moths, spiders, fireflies, worms, and so many more utilize this kind of protection. And, all of these primary consumers provide needed sustenance to secondary, tertiary, and, down the line, apex consumers. Habitat preservation through leaving the leaves plays into the whole food chain in your small area of the world.

And lest you think that you have to leave them where they fall, raking them into designated areas is perfectly acceptable. Utilizing them as mulch in flower beds or around trees & shrubs can suppress weeds and infuse the soil with helpful nutrients for the next year.

The other environmental impact that we see from this idea is the reduction of tons of yard debris being dumped into landfills.  In the yards, the leaves have more access to oxygen to decompose aerobically without releasing excessive amounts of methane.

Of course, this whole argument is for naught, if the homeowners association or city insists on leaf cleanup. However, “leaving the leaves” has been a movement for decades.  As it continues to garner attention and interest, it may become the norm even in city ordinances and HOAs alike.  

I’ve made sure to research this article with some online sources that you can check out for yourself if you want to learn more about “Leaving the Leaves”…

https://www.usda.gov/media/blog/2022/10/17/fall-leave-leaves
https://www.nwf.org/Magazines/National-Wildlife/2015/OctNov/Gardening/Leave-the-Leaves
https://www.webstergrovesmo.gov/708/Leave-the-Leaves
https://mdc.mo.gov/magazines/conservationist/1995-10/autumn-leaves-myth-reality
https://xerces.org/leave-the-leaves?blm_aid=1217656837

Marci McIntosh

Babies in the Nursery

If you have seen me around the nursery lately, you might have noticed that I look a little different. That would be because I am currently 9 months pregnant, expecting my first child- a baby girl, due on July 21st. With this article's due date, and my actual due date approaching, I wanted to think of a way to tie my baby to the horticulture industry. Not only would that make this article a memorable keepsake, but also something I could relate to on a personal level. Then it dawned on me, BABY plants! Considering the approaches of seeds, seedlings, and plugs when starting a garden or in nursery production.

Which is better when starting your own garden- seeds, seedlings, or a mixture of both? Well, that depends on how much time and money you have to invest into this project.

If choosing to start with seeds, you will have the benefit of variety. There are endless varieties of seeds available, which would allow you to grow exactly what you want. Seeds are also typically less expensive, so if cost were a factor, seeds could be a little easier on the wallet. However, do consider the added costs of materials needed for seed propagation which could include seeding trays, special tools, and equipment like grow lights (depending on your location).

Another important detail to consider is the time-consuming nature of seeds, and the time it takes to reach maturity on your selected varieties. This timing is crucial to having your crops ready when you want them. Some seeds are quick to reach maturity, such as lettuce and spinach which can be ready in as little as 30 days. Other crops such as tomatoes and peppers can take months to fruit after planting, which makes them a better option to start as a seedling. In this case, knowing your limits and making these choices based on time to maturity will be your best bet.

Lastly, when choosing seed propagation, there also is a sense of pride in growing something start to finish. That feeling of pride is something I have experienced in the past but am now feeling in a way I never thought possible. Starting something from scratch and looking back and saying “I DID THAT” is a very special feeling. Especially in the end when you see your perfect baby- or cucumber, that you grew from scratch.

Starting a garden from seedlings- or transplants, is a much easier route to get the garden of your dreams. There is no shame in letting a professional start your plants off, grow them up and then plant the established transplants in a straight row. Think of this like sending your seeds off to daycare!! The benefits of this include less planning time, less loss, and can give you more predictable results. Timing is still something to consider when planting seedlings, but MUCH less so. Instead of all of the planning of maturation times, you will just need to make sure your seedlings are not planted too late, giving them time to bear fruit by their desired harvest date. A downfall of starting with seedlings can be cost. Generally, the transplants from your local nursery are more expensive than seeding the garden. Keep the cost in mind if this is the route you are considering.

Here at Christensen’s, we do some of our own perennial production. Considering that we are not a farm, or greenhouse, we start all our production from plugs (comparable to transplants). Over the years, through trial and error, I have learned what does, and doesn’t work for us. Cell sizes in the industry range from 128 cell-teeny tiny cells, all the way up to 21 cell- jumbo cells. These individual units are called liners. Over years of experimentation, I have learned that the larger cells- 30c to 21c- work best for me. Depending on the plant, and time of year, I get the best finish out of these. There is a lot of planning when it comes to perennial production. For example, a Nepeta started past Memorial Day can finish off in 4 weeks, whereas an Echinacea started in April, will typically not be available until mid-June. My main tip is to start at your desired finish date and work backwards as to when it should to potted, crop by crop. The plug size and temperature when planting are factors you must consider. Or just come see us for all of your perennials. We’re happy to help!

There are many resources out there to help when raising your babies. For me the best have been “What to Expect When Expecting”, all the wonderful parents in my life, and TikTok. For you with your gardens, there are many seed starting guides, the Farmers Almanac, the Simple, Sensible, Solutions guide from Walters Gardens (for perennial production), and many other excellent books! A trip to the library (or Amazon) is an excellent way to start a garden (or production). 

In conclusion, there are benefits to starting your garden with seeds, seedlings, and a combination of both. As with most things, time, money, and determination are factors that can help make the decision for you. Choose wisely, but just know that like with becoming a parent, there will be much to learn. In my case I am going to go into it with an open mind, taking advice from those around me, while also finding my own way. I have learned that growing my little ‘seedling’ is not easy. In fact, it is the most challenging thing I have done to date. But I know the reward at the end will be the most glorious of ‘gardens’ I could have ever imagined.

Molly De La Rosa Author

Mulch Appreciated!

Spring is upon us and we are selling through our mulch at a mind-boggling pace. Hardwood mulch is incredibly popular with homeowners and contractors alike, but have you considered that there is an alternative? What if I told you that this aesthetically pleasing alternative not only suppresses weeds and smells good, it even inhibits several common pests?

Cedar mulch is all of these things!

Mulch, in general, helps the soil retain moisture by preventing rapid evaporation. It acts as a protective layer, keeping the soil temperature stable, and providing insulation for plant roots.

Cedar Mulch on a Driveway

The reddish-brown color of cedar mulch adds visual appeal to garden beds, walkways, and around trees. It complements shrubs and ornamental plants beautifully and can create inspiring contrast to accents on a home or commercial building.

Property owners and maintenance crews may find the battle with persistent weeds is much easier to win with cedar mulch, homeowners may enjoy a landscape that is easier to manage and maintain.

Cedar mulch decomposes slower than hardwood mulch. This longevity translates to cost savings for homeowners. They won’t need to replace it annually, making it a more sustainable and budget-friendly option.

Cedar mulch is like a natural bug barrier for your garden. The secret lies in the aromatic compounds found in the wood, including cedrol, thujaplicin, and thujone. These compounds have pest-repelling properties, making cedar mulch an effective deterrent against insects such as roaches, moths, ants, and termites.

These compounds have been tested for efficacy against gnats and are even available extracted as a pesticidal spray for indoor plants.

The next time you’re discussing mulch options with your clients, consider emphasizing the cedar advantage!

Looking for even better weed control? Try putting Treflan granular pre-emergent down before the mulch.

Matt Millington

Frost Under the Flower Moon

Spring in Michigan is always a temperamental time. One day it’s sunny and 70, and the next day it’s snowing. Drop the words “frost free date” anywhere in a Google search and you can get the average date predicting when it’s safe to plant.  The problem with averages is that they come from data on both sides of the average and using this date could leave you frost-burnt as frequently as half the years.

Here at Christensen’s, the full moon in May, or the ‘Flower Moon’ is something we always keep top of mind along with the average frost-free dates. Each spring, we take out our calendars, look for this ever-changing date, and wait patiently. The reason being is that many in our nursery believe that until we are past this milestone, we are still at risk of a frost. Sometimes we get lucky, and this turning point is early, and in other years- like this one, it is late.

The full moon in May was named, as other monthly moons were, by Native American tribes. In regions that were covered in carpets of flowers, the commonly used name of Flower Moon was coined. Other Native American cultures used different names based on what was occurring around them at that time such as Corn Planting moon or Blossom moon. This full moon paired with a clear night has long been believed to bring bitterly cold and unseasonable weather with the threat of hard frosts. The best example of this was the 2020 Flower Moon which brought a cold snap that extended for several days.

Depending on your source, some people believe the Flower Moon is a strong indicator, while others believe it is a long-held myth.  While researching we contacted our favorite local source for all things horticulture, Michigan State University, and asked if they knew of any scientific source that could prove or disprove the moon’s effect on frost. One response was that there isn’t much research on the connection.  Another thought is that it is likely a timing thing – which leads to conclusions that may or may not be able to be proven.

Whether you believe in the Flower Moon or not, we can all agree that, for us in the horticulture industry, a sudden burst of cold weather can be very bad news.  It is dangerous to fresh foliage, buds, and flowering trees.

As you probably know, plants spend the winter in a sleep called dormancy. This dormant period naturally hardens off your shrubs and perennials to withstand the harsh winter temperatures. However, once your plants start to emerge in the spring, we become concerned about colder temps. There are 3 types of freezes issued by the National Weather Service- Frost, freeze, and hard freeze. A frost- sometimes called ‘Killing Frost’ is just frozen dew. Water on the ground, and on the leaves of plants become frozen when temps fall into mid-30s, and winds are calm. A freeze is when temps are at 32 degrees and conditions such as wind prevent the formation of frost. Lastly, a hard freeze is the most serious and occurs when temps drop below 28 degrees for an extended period. It is worth noting that the length of freeze overnight matters. A 1-hour freeze before sunrise is not as worrying as an hours long freeze in the middle of the night. All types of freeze warnings must be recognized, and a plan of action set in place.

The Flower Moon this year is late and will not occur until May 23rd. If you pair the Flower Moon with the averages that range from May 23rd to May 27th, depending on where you are, you will want to watch low temperatures and come up with a plan to combat the frost. Houseplants or potted material can easily be moved inside and out of the cold. In a nursery setting, or in your customers’ yards, here are some tips to mitigate some potential frost damage. At the nursery, we do two main things to battle against frost. Our first method is the continuous running of our irrigation. This frost protection program starts in the wee hours of the morning and runs every 45 minutes for 5-minute spurts throughout the entire nursery. This protects plants by using the heat of the water to continuously warm the plants. Our second mode of action is to use frost protection blankets. These blankets are typically lightweight but effective and do a nice job of keeping the frost from hitting the newly flushed leaves and buds. This method is less practical when talking about protecting an entire nursery, but a very effective plan for flower beds, or to cover smaller groups of our flushed perennials, and Roses. Tucking our plants in before a cold night gives us the peace of mind that they are safe and sound. Some other methods used across the industry are frost fans, under tree sprinklers, keeping grass short to absorb heat, frost protection sprays, and even the use of helicopters to increase air movement.

No matter how you slice it, frost is the arch nemesis of the nursery and homeowners alike. During early spring, it is imperative that we be on watch for cold temps and potential freezes. Whether you can run continuous irrigation, or just plan on using a frost blanket, having a game plan to protect your plants is imperative. Until Memorial Day, we will be keeping our eye on the sky to ensure the best plant material possible!

A special thank you to Michigan State University’s Rebecca Finneran and Keith Mason for help with frost-free dates. MSU is an excellent source for questions on lawns, landscape, gardening and horticulture in general.  You can contact them 24/7 by clicking here. Also, check out MSU’s Enviroweather Tool by clicking here. 

Molly De La Rosa Author
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