At Christensen’s, there are flowering plants for every season. Springtime showcases Forsythia and Creeping Phlox. Summer highlights just about everything from Peony to Echinacea and Hydrangea. And fall shines a spotlight on Mums, Sedum Autumn Joy, and spectacular fall grass blooms. But what if you could plant something in fall that gave you the earliest of spring blooms?! Fall bulbs make this possible. Fall bulbs include varieties such as Narcissus, Crocus, Tulips, and “unusuals” like Hyacinth, Allium, Muscari and Fritallaria.

Put on your creative hat since fall bulbs provide endless possibilities! I will share some of my favorites but there are many other options!

Tulips come in every color you can imagine, with different spring bloom times. Keep it classic with varieties like Red Emperor, Pink Impression, or Golden Parade. Or mix it up with Darwin Hybrid Mix, Emperor Mix, or Lily Flowering Mix to give you blooms of multiple colors. You can also stagger bloom times so that when one is done blooming, there is another to follow.

When it comes to Narcissus, or Daffodils, there are many options to choose from. The stunning Yellow Dutch Master, Yellow Cheerfulness, and February Gold are certainly the stand outs. But these cuties come in many looks, cup sizes, and even some bunch-flowering varieties.

If you are looking for something a little less common, check out our “unusuals”, with my favorites being the Hyacinths. Coming in many colors, these bright, tubular flowers are the most fragrant of the spring bloomers. (Seriously, they smell AMAZING). Also known for their smell, we also carry Allium Bulbs. Their large purple and white blooms are hard to miss, and their height gives some dimension to your garden.

Your options are endless when it comes to fall bulbs. Have fun with it, get creative, and plant something in fall that will surprise you in the spring! Christensen’s bulb flyer is available on our website, www.christensensplantcenter.com (Password:6282cpc). Early order pricing is available, with a deposit, through September 3^rd. Don’t see what you are looking for? Our sales team is here to help you find exactly what you need! There are plenty more varieties available than what is listed in the bulb flyer.

Globe arborvitae are some of the most common plants you’ll find in a landscape. But there are many reasons to justify its frequent use.

Globe arbs are slow growing and relatively low maintenance plants, making it an easy choice for anyone wanting smaller evergreens that they can plant and not have to worry about.

Globe arbs do best in either full or partial sun with well-drained soil. They can be just a little picky on where they want to be planted but you'll know pretty quickly if they aren’t happy. Luckily, when they're happy, they look great!

There are many varieties of Globe arbs to choose from, varying in size, color, and foliage making it easy to find the right one for your project.

You can find these at Christensen's.

One of the slower growing varieties, Hetz Midget will reach around 4’ at maturity, but it will take a number of years to do so.

Also known as Linesville, Mr. Bowling Balls will stay around 2-3’ and have scale-like foliage that is different than other arborvitae.

Golden Globes grow similarly to an average Globe Arborvitae, reaching around 4’. But, what makes these stand out is its bright yellow-green foliage.

Fire Chiefs will have yellow-green foliage in the middle with the ends turning a brighter red. They grow to be about 4’ with scale-like foliage, similar to that on a Mr. Bowling Ball.

Visit Christensen's yard to pick out the perfect Arborvitae for your next project!

Every year, our local high school seniors organize what has affectionately been named “Water Wars”.  A non-school activity, it is effectively a huge water balloon and squirt gun fight, all done in the spirit of good, clean fun. That event got me thinking of “Landscape Water Wars”.

New plantings need a thorough watering every two to three days for the first month or two. Moving from pot to landscaping is stressful and they need to be weaned from the scheduled watering they receive at the nursery. At Christensen's, plants are watered a minimum of twice a day. This is what plants are used to, making the weaning process very important.

After the first two months, watering may be reduced to every five to seven days, depending on the air temperature and the amount of wind we have experienced.

Over-watering can be just as problematic. Unfortunately, it presents with many of the same symptoms as under-watering. So, watering needs to be measured and monitored.

All of you, our awesome contractors, install such beautiful landscapes for your clients. It kills me to see them injured or destroyed by something so preventable. 

I suggest incorporating plant care and homeowner education into every job, so your projects thrive, and your clients continue to celebrate their new landscape.

Here at the Christensen’s, we get a lot of honeybees. One of our neighbors keeps several hives. The bees look at the Christensen’s yard as an all-you-can-eat buffet! We can be proud of that (until inventory day).

If you were to research planting to support honeybees, it would appear all information points to herbaceous perennials.

However, there is a long list of shrubs that will support honeybees (along with butterflies and hummingbirds).

Azaleas and Rhododendrons are great for early feeding! They also feed butterflies and hummingbirds.

Although insignificant to us, Berberis flowers are just the right size for bees and have lots of nectar. It is also the correct color for hummingbirds to feed. Barberry is home to a caterpillar that will eventually pupate hanging from underneath to become a moth for summer.

Caryopteris ‘Bluebeard’ is the right color and provides ample nectar and pollen. Pushy butterflies try to get the bees off these plants with hummingbirds sometimes entering the fray.

Clethra of any flavor is a bee, butterfly and Hummingbird magnet! The plant produces copious amounts of nectar and pollen. Clethra also flowers at a time when there isn’t much else available for the bees.

Rosa species and cultivars attract bees. However, the Drift® and Knock Outs® are not good pollinators. They have been bred for other things, losing most of their nectaries. Older varieties, like Rosa rugosa cultivars, are the best for bees and butterflies

Salix species are a favorite food of Queen Bumblebees. Typically, Salix are early bloomers, providing nectar and pollen when not much else has started to flower. They are also butterfly plants. “Viceroy and the “Cloak” Butterflies lay their eggs on Salix and the caterpillars feed on the leaves when they emerge.

I hate having to count Spiraea during the summertime inventory. When you count, you have to move every plant and hope its bees don’t get mad at you! Cultivars available today bloom all year, giving the bees and butterflies a solid food source.

Syringa vulgaris, really any Lilac will do. They are also food for butterflies, several of which use it as a caterpillar plant.

Any and all varieties of Viburnum are heavy nectar producers. If you plan correctly, you can have  Viburnums blooming all season. It is another plant that feeds not only bees and butterflies but also birds and mammals. 

You may have heard of the rise in popularity of native perennials, making you wonder, “Why should I plant them?”. Well, there are many reasons! 

Native plants are beneficial to our environment. Not only do they provide habitats and food for insects and animals, but they create a healthier place for us and our communities. Native perennials are excellent pollinators and will fill your garden with beautiful flowers, attracting butterflies, hummingbirds, and more! They are also beneficial because they help reduce noise and carbon pollution! Finally, natives require less water due to being adapted to their native environment, saving you money and time!

One of my favorite Michigan natives is Asclepias tuberosa (Butterflyweed). This plant is beautiful in all seasons. The star of the show is its stunning orange flowers that bloom mid-summer. Fall interest continues with unique seed pods! Not only is this plant beautiful, but it is also food for Monarch Caterpillars. By planting Asclepias Tuberosa, you can rest easy, knowing that you are helping preserve one of the most beautiful, and vulnerable, butterflies in North America. Stop by the perennial lot and check out our Asclepias tuberosa. Look closely and you might see the stunning Monarch caterpillar yourself!

Last, but not least, are the Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower). This plant is native to prairies, meadows and woods, making it a very diverse and easy to grow Coneflower. Its bushy foliage and purple flowers provide interest all summer long. Once the flowers are spent, if not dead headed, they will last well into winter, allowing Finches and other birds to munch on their seeds. Fun Fact: Echinacea comes from the Greek word ‘Echinos’, meaning Hedgehog or sea urchin, describing the flowers’ spiky look. Can you see the similarity to the hedgehog in your email?

(Note: Although we do carry many Michigan native plants at Christensen’s there are many more that can be special ordered! Don’t hesitate to inquire about natives and we will do our best to get you what you need!)

Choosing a spreading Juniper can be a daunting task. There are so many to choose from and so many factors to consider. Height, width, color, and overall look varies between each variety. There are several varieties that are considered spreading but can end up being taller than some upright evergreen shrubs! So, how do you choose the right spreading Juniper for your customer’s landscape? While that task can be easier said than done, here are a few tips that may help point you in the right direction!

Juniperus conferta ‘Blue Pacific’

Blue Pacific Juniper is a great option when you are looking for something similar to a ground cover. It stays very low to the ground, only getting to be about 1 foot tall, and will spread to be about 6 feet wide. It enjoys full sun, making it a perfect option for open hillsides and sun gardens. Blue Pacific Juniper has blue-green foliage that will surely add interest to any landscape. Or, if you are looking for a similar plant, but in yellow, take a look at Golden Pacific Juniper. It grows the same, but has bright yellow-green foliage instead.

Juniperus virginiana ‘Grey Owl’

Grey Owl Juniper is another great option to consider when deciding between varieties. It will get a little bit taller, growing to be about 3 feet tall and 6 feet wide. It has a unique gray-green color to its foliage. Because it can withstand full sun, it’s a great option for landscapes with minimal shade.

Juniperus chinensis ‘Sea Green’

Sea Green Juniper is known for its vibrant green color all year long. At full maturity, Sea Greens can reach up to 6’ tall and 8’ wide, making it taller than most spreading junipers. Like the others, it enjoys full sun. Because Sea Greens tend to grow faster than other junipers, they are a perfect choice if you want the new landscape to fill in quickly!

Those are just a few of the options to consider.  If those aren’t quite the Juniper you were looking for, visit the Christensen’s plant yard to view what we have in stock.  Your sales person can also advise you on what can be ordered.

There are many things that remind us of the holiday season. Hot cocoa, snowmen, Christmas Trees, and falling snow. But when you picture your decorated holiday table, there is usually a festive plant as well- the Poinsettia. This holiday classic is the Christmas gift that keeps on giving. Each year, over 70 million Poinsettias are sold in the United States during a 6-week period, making them a staple of the Christmas season- but how? And why? I decided to do some digging into this yule tide annual, to understand where it came from, and how it became so popular.

Poinsettias are famous for their bright red leaves- or bracts. These bracts are often mistaken as the flower, which is a small, not so radiant cluster, found in the center of the leaves. The bright red foliage is the most common color found during the holidays, but Poinsettias also come in over 100 colors including pink, green, orange, and white. Interestingly, the color of the bracts is determined by a process called Photoperiodism. This means the amount of sunlight vs. darkness, which changes with the seasons. Longer darkness periods (14 hours of darkness for 6-8 weeks) result in the bright red hue that the Poinsettia is famous for.

Contrary to popular belief, the Poinsettia plant is nontoxic to humans and animals. This urban legend began, after 2 children who were said to have ingested the leaves passed away. In truth, it never even happened. Despite being untrue, the FDA released a statement that “even one Poinsettia leaf can be deadly”. This caused people to turn their back on the scarlet beauty, even becoming prohibited in certain places. Studies on rats proved that the plant is not lethal, although if ingested could cause an upset stomach.

Poinsettias are indigenous to Mexico, and Central America and were introduced to the US by Joel Roberts Poinsett in the 1820s. Its popularity can be attributed to the Ecke family, who started by selling them at street stands in 1909. After realizing their natural floppy, weed-like look could be improved, the family came up with a new grafting method- cross breeding 2 varieties, to make the plant more desirable. This enhanced their fullness and made them more compact. After perfecting their habit, they began pushing the holiday favorite, and even took the plant to late night talk shows in the 1960s to help promote them. Soon the Eckes family had controlled the market on Poinsettia, at one point contributing to 70% of the domestic market. Eventually, their grafting process was published, allowing other growers to follow in their footsteps. Today, the Ecke family is out of the Poinsettia business, but growers in California continue to produce Poinsettia today, capitalizing on the Holiday cash crop.

The Poinsettia is a Christmas staple that lives on beyond just the winter season. By keeping up with water, fertilizer, and trimming schedule, you can keep them happy all year long. With the added bonus of being nontoxic, there is no need to worry about you or your animals falling ill. Although there is no true reason for these plants to be associated with the holidays- other than excellent marketing, they do not appear to be going anywhere anytime soon.

Fall and winter months are arguably the most difficult times of the year to identify plants. All the leaves are gone, and there are no flowers left. It may just look like there’s a random cluster of sticks in the ground, and each one looks like the other. However, have no fear, there are still plenty of ways to still accurately identify these plants! Here are some things to look at that might make this an easier process.

Size and growth habit are the easiest characteristics of a plant to pinpoint first. Whether it is columnar and upright, has a mounded shape or if it is lower to the ground and has more of a spreading habit. Sometimes this may not be enough to identify the plant, but it can point you in the right direction.

Buds can be an easy giveaway of what the mystery plant may be. Many plants have unique bud shape, size and color. The placement of buds on a stem can vary as well, helping to narrow down the investigation. For example, the buds on a Viburnum trilobum will be smooth and with two distinct outer scales, while Viburnum carlesii will have buds that will be more vegetative and almost resemble the start of a leaf.

The stems and bark of a plant can also hold many unique characteristics of a plant. A lot of which can be hidden by the foliage during the summer. For example, Weigela has relatively coarse or rough bark which is not very noticeable until it loses its leaves. Or a more easily identifiable plant, red Dogwood varieties will have their signature bright red stem color in the winter.

In most cases it will take a combination of these factors to properly identify a plant, but by recognizing these characteristics you will be successful. As the planting season comes to an end, it is a great time to take advantage of learning what these plants look like without their foliage. Well, that is until spring!

P.S. If you want to get deeper into identifying in the offseason, check out this book. 

Every year as we start to bring in fresh trees in the fall we hear requests for any and every kind of tree. Unfortunately for us, the cold winters here don’t allow for just any tree to be dug and replanted in the fall. It is a great time to plant trees that have previously been dug and given time to recover in our yard. However, it can be dangerous to dig certain trees late in the year depending on the growth habits of the species and other environmental factors. There are many trees we try our best to avoid digging in the fall to protect ourselves and our customers from finding dead trees in the spring when everything else is nice and green.

Most trees go into dormancy in the fall, entering a state where metabolic processes slow down so they can survive the winter. Digging trees in early spring while they are still dormant minimizes the stress caused by cutting its roots and transplanting it. The root system is preserved more effectively, allowing the tree to recover quickly once replanted. As it warms up in spring, they break dormancy and start putting on new growth which is ideal timing for reestablishing the root system after being dug. Trees dug in spring also have the advantage of cooler but warming temperatures and higher moisture. This combination reduces how much water the tree is losing and provides ideal conditions for recovery. Most species acclimate to their new surroundings better when dug in the spring. This is why we bring in thousands of trees in the spring and hold them year-round. It gives the trees a chance to recover until you need them and minimizes the risk of transplant shock or failure to make sure your newly installed landscape looks good and will last.

Some trees are better suited for fall digging and can reestablish roots before winter. Most species of Amelanchier, Crabapple, Ginkgo, Linden, Lilac, and Maple do well with fall digging and some even seem to do better, avoiding transplant shock. These trees will still develop roots in the cooler months after being dug. With the ground still warm but air temperatures cooling, growth can continue even as the tree's leaves drop. This late growth enables the tree to adjust and recover before winter, preparing the tree to absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil as soon as the weather warms up in spring. During spring, the tree’s energy is directed towards new growth and root development, instead of recovery, which can result in stronger and more vigorous plants. This can enhance the overall health of the tree, making it more resilient to inclement weather, diseases, and pests. In contrast, spring digging can lead to transplant shock, as trees may struggle to adjust and recover while also trying to grow new leaves.

In conclusion, digging and replanting trees is a practice grounded in ecological and botanical science. The combination of biological factors such as dormancy cycles and growth rates with environmental factors like soil conditions and moisture determine the optimal time for digging. By timing the transplanting process correctly, one can set the stage for healthy, vibrant trees that will thrive in their new environments for years to come. So, if you see a tree with some old deteriorating burlap in the fall don’t be too quick to write it off. That tree is not “old”, it was intentionally dug in the spring according to the best botanical practices and held all year just waiting to be planted. It has survived the stress of digging and is primed for replanting, more resilient and ready to thrive in its new environment.

As we sit here under the clouds in Plymouth, contemplating more rain and clouds in the coming week, let’s talk about some full-sun shrubs that can liven up your plantings. We can help make a landscape pop with vibrant colors and beautiful flowers. Here are a few unique options to consider when trying to find the right plants for uncovered landscapes:

Summer Wine® Physocarpus opulifolius

Considered to be an improvement to Ninebark, Summer Wine grows to be 5-8’ tall and wide, with dark purple foliage and white flowers in the spring that can even be cut for arrangements. This plant is very low maintenance and provides a great contrast of color wherever it’s planted. As it grows it will also give a unique look as its stems start to splay out, but its tidy habit rarely requires pruning. (If you find you like this plant but need to tuck it into an even smaller space, check out Tiny Wine Ninebark!)

Czechmark Trilogy® Weigela

Czechmark Trilogy Weigela stays relatively small, between 3-3.5’ tall and wide. The interest in this plant comes in spring with its flower color, varying from white, pink and red at any one time. As for the rest of the season, Czechmark Trilogy will have glossy green foliage that stays looking brand new.

Double Play® Candy Corn® Spiraea

Candy Corn Spirea is a part of the Double Play series, and has only made an appearance in landscapes in the past few years. It is relatively new, but sets itself apart from other Spirea with its foliage showing all different shades of yellow, orange and green. A very compact plant that stays around 2-2.5’ tall and wide, this is another low maintenance beauty. While the foliage provides the show all year long, Candy Corn has dark purple flowers in the spring and early summer that contrast beautifully with the vibrant leaves.

These are only a few options for planting in full sun, but there are many more out there if you put your sunglasses on and take a look around!

Photos for this Article Courtesy of Proven Winners - www.provenwinners.com.