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Sorting Out Sweetbay Magnolia

MagnoliaVirginiana Sweetbay Magnolia

Sweetbay magnolia (Magnolia virginiana) is a native tree species found primarily in the southeastern United States. It is renowned for its graceful form, fragrant flowers, and glossy green foliage, making it a beloved choice for gardens throughout its range.

Sweetbay magnolia is a medium-sized tree that averages heights of 10-35 feet, depending on growing conditions and variety. Its narrow, oval-shaped leaves are dark green on top and silver-gray underneath, creating a striking contrast when rustled by the breeze. In late spring to early summer, the tree produces creamy white, lemon-scented flowers that stand out against the foliage. These are followed by cone-like fruits that attract birds and wildlife.

Magnolia virginiana - Sweetbay Magnolia

In addition to its horticultural appeal, Sweetbay Magnolia holds cultural significance for indigenous peoples, who traditionally used parts of the tree for medicinal and ceremonial purposes. 

Sweetbay magnolia thrives in moist, acidic soils and partial shade but can adapt to a range of conditions, including clay and loamy soils. Its association with waterways has earned it the nickname "Swamp Magnolia."

A versatile tree that can be used in various landscaping applications, it works well as a specimen tree, providing year-round interest with its foliage, flowers, and fruit. Its moderate size makes it suitable for both small and large gardens, where it can serve as a focal point or backdrop. Additionally, it can be planted near water features or in rain gardens, where its affinity for moisture is an asset.

Sweetbay is often overlooked in favor of its popular cousin, the southern magnolia.  But, as the name implies, the southern magnolia can be affected by the mercurial Michigan weather.  You could miss a whole season of blooms if the conditions are not right.  But the Sweetbay avoids this with a later bloom.

In conclusion, Sweetbay magnolia is an enchanting plant that deserves a place in any garden or landscape design. So why not consider adding one of these captivating trees to your plantings and experience their unique charm firsthand?

David Dermyer

The Uphill Battle of Shrubs on Slopes

Steep slopes and uneven terrain can be a common burden that presents itself in a landscape. This less-than-ideal planting situation can make it all the more challenging when it comes to plant selection. Low-maintenance shrubs are often desired in these kinds of areas, and there are a select few that not only thrive in these conditions, but they look great as well! Here are a few that can offer a lot of character to a landscape while also stabilizing these hillsides.

Blue Pacific Juniper

Junipers:
Spreading and low-growing junipers can cover large areas and provide a unique look and color to a landscape. Some varieties to consider are Blue Pacific or Blue Rug. There are many varieties of Juniper that could be used in these situations, but these two are known for how well they do in these tricky environments.

Drift Roses:
There are endless options for color when it comes to drift roses. There’s anything from pinks and red to yellows and whites. They have a spreading growth habit and can be great in a landscape for someone who loves roses.

Deutzia:
Some varieties of Deutzia include Nikko, Nikko Blush, or Chardonnay Pearls. This can be a more unique plant to be put on a hill, but it has a mounded shape that can look great as a mass planting.

Euonymous fortuneii:
Also known as Wintercreeper, there are many different color and shape choices for this plant. They can be spreading or mounded, variegated or solid colors, and everything in between. These stay low to the ground and have vibrant color all year long.

As an extra tip for a great plant to put at the bottom of these hillsides, you may want to consider a dogwood. Some varieties include Bailey, Bergeson, Buds Yellow or the Arctic Fire series. These shrubs can handle the extra water that comes from the runoff of these locations and have interest all year long, from beautiful green foliage in the summer to brightly colored stems in the winter.

If You Can’t Beat ‘Em, Substitute ‘Em!

With Boxwood still in limbo I thought I would give a refresher on some plant substitutions that have been flyin’ out the door as a replacement.

I would have to start with Ilex glabras – seriously! I would have considered these an underused plant, but their time has come to step out in the world! “Inkberries” are hardy to a zone 4, not too bothered by wet feet, and can take part shade. They are not as deer-resistant as boxwood but are on the ‘least browsed’ list. Ilex glabra do not like our alkaline soils and to look their best with an acidic fertilizer applied. (Our alkaline soils are why they get yellow.) They are also salt tolerant. Straight Ilex glabra gets rather leggy and is known to sucker. However, the newer cultivars are an improvement in both leafing all the way down and less suckering (…they say no suckers but… I don’t always believe what they say.)

  • Ilex glabra ‘Shamrock’ is 3-5’ x 3-5’ with upright branching.
  • I.g. ‘Compacta’ is 3-4’ x 3-4’ with an oval-rounded shape.
  • I.g. ‘Densa’ is very uniform in shape.

There are 3 new ones from Proven Winners. They are bred to have better disease resistance as well as leaves all the way to the ground.

  • I.g. ‘Strongobx’  is 2-3’ x 2’ with large leaves. The habit is kinda of a donut… squat and round.
  • I.g. ‘Gembox’ 2-3’ x 2-3’ with petite leaves and a globe habit. (‘Strongbox’ and ‘Gembox’ are both females.)
  • I.g. ‘Squeezebox’ is male with an upright, dense habit at 4-6’ x 2-3’

Fun fact of the day: Why are they called “Inkberry”? Civil War soldiers used the sap as ink to write letters home.

Even “Mugos” have seen a resurgence. Pinus mugo prefers full sun but is light-shade tolerant. Of all the evergreens it is the one that gets the least winter burn. They will tolerate our heavier soil but prefer something a little sandier. Pinus mugo is also deer-resistant and tolerates salt. Nothing new and fab but some tried and true ones are available…

  • Pinus mugo ‘Compacta’ is a dwarf cultivar reaching about 3-4’.
  • P. mugo var mugo gets 4-6’ x 4-8’, but is still considered a dwarf.
  • P. mugo var pumilio is a dense somewhat prostrate form with branching heading upwards for a slightly different look. It is still considered a dwarf but reaches 4-5’ tall and 6-10’ wide.
  • I am expecting to have some P.m. ‘Sherwood Compact’. They are very dense with leaves that have a slight twist to them. ‘Sherwood Compact’ will get to be about 3-4’ x 3-4’.
  • I am also hoping to get in some Pinus strobus ‘Sea Urchin’, a 2-3’ dwarf with blue-green needles and a tight globe habit.

Globe shaped Thuja occidentalis have been moving up the popularity ladder for the last several years. The Globe “Arbs” have some newer well-behaved cultivars (not that the older cultivars are not well-behaved!!). Thujas will take our alkaline soil as well as wet soils. They prefer full sun but will take part shade.

  • T.o. ’Golden Globe’ is very dense and a 2-4’ dwarf with soft yellow coloration.
  • T.o. ‘Firechief’ Do you remember ‘Rheingold’?? ‘Fire chief’ is a mutation of a ‘Rheingold’. It has a better orange-red coloration and gets 4’ x 4’.
  • T.o. ‘Linesville’ or ‘Mr. Bowling Ball’. ‘Mr. Bowling Ball’, also known as ‘Linesville’, is a dense 2-3’ x 2-3’ globe with blue-green foliage that is soft to the touch.
  • T.o. ‘Hetz Midget’ is a slow cultivar eventually reaching 3-4’ x 4-5’. The foliage is blue-green.
  • T.o. ‘Little Giant’ is another slow-growing cultivar with dense dark green foliage.
  • T.o. ‘Woodward’. They get big! They grow to 4-10’ x 8-15’ eventually. Landscape size will be on the smaller end, because these are very slow growers (reaching 4-5 x 8’ in 10yrs.) They have dark green needles.
  • T.o. ‘Anna’s Magic Ball’ As per the Proven Winners website these are nifty! (I like that word.) I agree, a nifty little plant 2-3’ x 3-4’ with bright yellow foliage.
  • T.o. ‘Danica’ I know this one is the love of everyone’s life, but it is incredibly difficult to find! I grab everyone I can! ‘Danicas’ only get to about 2’ x 2’ with dense emerald green foliage.

There is one more “Globe Arb” to mention. T.o ‘Aurea’ (group). They are kind of a mishmash of yellowish foliage globe arbs. They usually only reach about 2-3’ x 2-3’

I hope I’ve given you enough alternatives to think about.  If that’s not enough, there are a few other options – Mirobiota, Myrica, “Chamy’s” or even “Barberry”. Maybe I’ll delve into those suggestions in a future article.  But for now, check out the above varieties.

Until next time!

Kim Roth Byline

Babies in the Nursery

If you have seen me around the nursery lately, you might have noticed that I look a little different. That would be because I am currently 9 months pregnant, expecting my first child- a baby girl, due on July 21st. With this article's due date, and my actual due date approaching, I wanted to think of a way to tie my baby to the horticulture industry. Not only would that make this article a memorable keepsake, but also something I could relate to on a personal level. Then it dawned on me, BABY plants! Considering the approaches of seeds, seedlings, and plugs when starting a garden or in nursery production.

Which is better when starting your own garden- seeds, seedlings, or a mixture of both? Well, that depends on how much time and money you have to invest into this project.

If choosing to start with seeds, you will have the benefit of variety. There are endless varieties of seeds available, which would allow you to grow exactly what you want. Seeds are also typically less expensive, so if cost were a factor, seeds could be a little easier on the wallet. However, do consider the added costs of materials needed for seed propagation which could include seeding trays, special tools, and equipment like grow lights (depending on your location).

Another important detail to consider is the time-consuming nature of seeds, and the time it takes to reach maturity on your selected varieties. This timing is crucial to having your crops ready when you want them. Some seeds are quick to reach maturity, such as lettuce and spinach which can be ready in as little as 30 days. Other crops such as tomatoes and peppers can take months to fruit after planting, which makes them a better option to start as a seedling. In this case, knowing your limits and making these choices based on time to maturity will be your best bet.

Lastly, when choosing seed propagation, there also is a sense of pride in growing something start to finish. That feeling of pride is something I have experienced in the past but am now feeling in a way I never thought possible. Starting something from scratch and looking back and saying “I DID THAT” is a very special feeling. Especially in the end when you see your perfect baby- or cucumber, that you grew from scratch.

Starting a garden from seedlings- or transplants, is a much easier route to get the garden of your dreams. There is no shame in letting a professional start your plants off, grow them up and then plant the established transplants in a straight row. Think of this like sending your seeds off to daycare!! The benefits of this include less planning time, less loss, and can give you more predictable results. Timing is still something to consider when planting seedlings, but MUCH less so. Instead of all of the planning of maturation times, you will just need to make sure your seedlings are not planted too late, giving them time to bear fruit by their desired harvest date. A downfall of starting with seedlings can be cost. Generally, the transplants from your local nursery are more expensive than seeding the garden. Keep the cost in mind if this is the route you are considering.

Here at Christensen’s, we do some of our own perennial production. Considering that we are not a farm, or greenhouse, we start all our production from plugs (comparable to transplants). Over the years, through trial and error, I have learned what does, and doesn’t work for us. Cell sizes in the industry range from 128 cell-teeny tiny cells, all the way up to 21 cell- jumbo cells. These individual units are called liners. Over years of experimentation, I have learned that the larger cells- 30c to 21c- work best for me. Depending on the plant, and time of year, I get the best finish out of these. There is a lot of planning when it comes to perennial production. For example, a Nepeta started past Memorial Day can finish off in 4 weeks, whereas an Echinacea started in April, will typically not be available until mid-June. My main tip is to start at your desired finish date and work backwards as to when it should to potted, crop by crop. The plug size and temperature when planting are factors you must consider. Or just come see us for all of your perennials. We’re happy to help!

There are many resources out there to help when raising your babies. For me the best have been “What to Expect When Expecting”, all the wonderful parents in my life, and TikTok. For you with your gardens, there are many seed starting guides, the Farmers Almanac, the Simple, Sensible, Solutions guide from Walters Gardens (for perennial production), and many other excellent books! A trip to the library (or Amazon) is an excellent way to start a garden (or production). 

In conclusion, there are benefits to starting your garden with seeds, seedlings, and a combination of both. As with most things, time, money, and determination are factors that can help make the decision for you. Choose wisely, but just know that like with becoming a parent, there will be much to learn. In my case I am going to go into it with an open mind, taking advice from those around me, while also finding my own way. I have learned that growing my little ‘seedling’ is not easy. In fact, it is the most challenging thing I have done to date. But I know the reward at the end will be the most glorious of ‘gardens’ I could have ever imagined.

Molly De La Rosa Author

Finding a Rare Gem – Heptacodium

Gardening enthusiasts are always on the lookout for unique and visually striking additions to their landscapes. And many homeowners love to be the ‘Joneses’ rather than keep up with them. An inimitable tree that stands out for its beauty and distinctive characteristics is Heptacodium.

Heptacodium miconioides (also known by the original species name, jasminoides and commonly known as Seven Son Flower) is native to China. First introduced to the West by the plant explorer E. H. Wilson in 1907, it would be mostly forgotten until the 1980s when additional seeds and cuttings were brought to the Arnold Arboretum. Most modern Heptacodium in North America can be traced to this shipment. Considered to be rare in the wild, this tree has been gaining popularity in gardens worldwide due to its elegant appearance and unique blooming habits.

The Heptacodium is a deciduous shrub or small tree that typically grows relatively quickly up to 15-20 feet in height, though it can sometimes reach 25 feet under optimal conditions. Its most notable feature is its exfoliating bark, which peels away in thin, papery layers to reveal shades of tan, gray, and brown, adding interest to the winter landscape. In late summer to early fall, clusters of fragrant, creamy white flowers bloom atop the branches, attracting bees and butterflies. These blooms give way to small, purple fruit that persists into late fall. Despite attracting pollinators, it is deer-resistant. 

In addition to its ornamental value, Heptacodium holds cultural significance in its native China, where it is often planted near temples and sacred sites. The number seven is considered auspicious in Chinese culture, hence the name "Seven Son Flower."

Heptacodium is adaptable to a variety of soil types but prefers well-drained soil and full sun to partial shade. It is relatively low-maintenance once established and has good drought tolerance. And while it takes to the Midwest environment well (zones 5-9), it is a non-invasive species.

Despite its relative obscurity, but due to its manageable size and attractive features, Heptacodium is well-suited for use as a specimen tree, focal point, or backdrop in gardens and landscapes. It also makes a lovely addition to mixed borders, where its late-season blooms can complement other flowering plants.

The Seven Son Flower is an excellent special-order option from Christensen’s. While it is gaining in popularity, we do not stock this variety (yet). However, we are happy to bring in what you need, just ask!

David Dermyer

An Amelanchier by Any Other Name

Amelanchier, also commonly known as the Juneberry, Serviceberry, or Shadbush; is an ornamental fruiting shrub native to Michigan and much of North America. With its delicate flowers, flavorful berries, and vibrant foliage, it has earned its place in gardens and natural habitats all over. We carry a variety of Amelanchier, that can be seen flushing white flowers, row upon row, in late April or early May.

Amelanchier belong to the Rosaceae family, sharing their lineage with species such as roses, apples, and strawberries. They flower early and produce edible berries in the summer after the branches flush out with elliptic leaves. The leaves emerge as bronze in spring before maturing to a lush green in summer. Come fall, they turn an array of warm colors from golden yellow to deep red. They typically grow as a multi-stem shrub, reaching heights of 15 to 25 feet, and are also grown as a single-stem tree.

Beyond their aesthetic appeal, Amelanchier play a vital role in native ecosystems. As an early bloomer, it provides a crucial source of nectar and attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Moreover, its berries serve as a vital food source for songbirds, small mammals, and people, too. Amelanchier produce small, round berries similar to blueberries, but with a distinct flavor of their own. Rich in vitamins and antioxidants, they have a sweet-tart taste and are great for jams and pies.

Amelanchier also hold a special place in the cultural traditions and folklore of North America. For Indigenous peoples, the shrub has spiritual significance and has long been used for its fruit and medicinal properties. Among early European settlers, the “Juneberry” acquired many names reflecting its seasonal habits. The term "Shadbush" came from the synchronized timing of its flowering with the annual migration of shad fish in New England.

Autumn Brilliance Amelanchier 

The Autumn Brilliance Serviceberry is a fast-growing variety with an intense red fall color available as both a shrub and tree form that can grow 15-25 feet wide. Cumulus is a single-stem tree-form variety that has a strong upright growth habit that only spreads 5-10’ wide. Amelanchier are hardy and adaptable to a range of soils but prefer well-drained and slightly acidic soil. They can be planted in full sun or shade but typically produce more fruit with full sun. These characteristics make them a versatile plant perfect for applications from screening to an ornamental centerpiece.

Pick uo your Amelanchier-Juneberry-Serviceberry-Shadbush-Chuckley Pear (or whatever you call them) from Christensen’s beautiful selection!

Jacob Haines By Line

It’s Peony Month… YEAH!

Paeonia Peony ITOH Bartzella

You may ask, 'Why?' or perhaps “Do I need a Hallmark card?" No cards are required. And, ‘Why?’, Well, because peonies are about to bloom! Which peonies? – ALL the PRETTY PEONY!!

I have written a lot of articles in my life, but I do not usually jump up and say me, me, me please, pick me. But an article about PEONIES?!? – Yes, please. They have always been my favorite. The flower is massive, and the fragrance is sweet (it is also one of the few smelly plants that does not give me an instant allergy headache!). I cut them and enjoy them inside by the bucketful. I may end up with a few ants indoors – but who cares, it’s worth it for peony flowers! And, well, they are just ants.

We grow our own peonies at the nursery, and they are quite impressive! (...If I may say so myself.) The production crew pots them up in the fall and they typically root out before dormancy. In the spring, they POP! We not only grow peony, but we grow several types of peonies.

You all are used to the common herbaceous peony (Peony lactiflora). Usually about 2.5’ and they can easily get to 3’ across. The varieties we carry are typically double-flowering cultivars. However, there are a few we offer that are single. I like single ones but prefer – as will most of your customers - the double flowering cultivars. There is no doubt the doubles put on a show.

Felix Supreme Peony

Sarah Bernhardt Peony

Some of my favorite double flowering cultivars are not only old cultivars but they are still some of the best (they are also reasonably priced, they aren’t “fancy pants” peonies, you know, ones that will cost you your first child!). ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ (double pink), ‘Duchess De Nemours’ (double pink), Felix Supreme (double red). The list goes on. There are at least 6 cultivars in stock, and I know one of them is ‘Krinkled White’ (single white flower). Herbaceous peonies will go downhill by mid-summer and the leaves look quite ratty. When placing an herbaceous peony make sure it can be seen in all its glory through May and then maybe something like a rose to cover them up for the rest of the year.

Bartzella Itoh Peony

But the production crew does not stop there. No, they have added Itoh Peonies to their production list. A totally different animal than an herbaceous Peony. Itoh’s are a cross between an herbaceous peony and a “Tree Peony” (they are known as “Intersectional” Peony – in case you were wondering). Why would you ever want that – well Itoh’s form a semi-woody stem that is able to hold up the huge flower (both come from the “Tree” Peony (Peony sufferticosa), and it also has and produces herbaceous stems – so if it dies to ground no problem. I have several at home. I do not cut them back until spring and then only to the buds on the woody stems. Every year they get bigger and bigger as new herbaceous stems join the 'club'. Believe it or not, they look more and more fab every time I see them. The easiest to come by is 'Bartzella'. It has a semi-double to double yellow flower that can be 6-8” in diameter. ‘Morning Light’ has a semi-double fuchsia flower. On the upside the plant flowers for longer period as side shoots will also flower and the colors cannot be found in P. lactiflora. (there aren’t even semi vigorous yellows in herbaceous Peony.) The foliage is very clean and lasts all year and when it blooms it is covered with flowers not only on the top but also on the sides. The only thumbs down I would give the Itoh cultivars is like a “Tree” peony the flowers are not cuttable. Vase life is only hours!

I can’t let you go just yet because although I no longer have much to do with perennials and even less on production I know a secret. There are – are you ready for this – “Tree Peonies” in stock. Yeppers. True “Tree” peonies are a rare find. They are incredibly hardy with massive flowers held up by woody stems. The group we have is an “assorted” color collection. But it doesn’t really matter because they are, well, not only Peonies but they are “Tree” Peonies and……. IT IS PEONY MONTH – YEAH! 

Krinkled White Peony

A couple of other quick notes about peonies… They can live 100+ years (all peonies can!). They THRIVE in the cold. If you want to see some spectacular ones, go to Alaska! There are 11 different flower types – from single to lotus, hundred proliferate, golden circle to bombs! They like well-drained soil and if you feel like it, throw some fertilizer on them after flowering and in the fall (you can do it in the summer also). Surprisingly, unlike most plants that put on such a huge, spectacular flower they need little in supplemental feeding. I do not feed mine but occasionally I dump some compost or peat around them (depending on whether I am feeling generous!). 

All peonies prefer full sun. From experience, I can tell you my herbaceous peonies are not flowering as well since the tree started giving them shade – I will be moving them this year. My Itoh peony gets AM sun till about noon then they are in shade – not dark but shade from a massive Maple tree. Doesn’t bother them a bit. They always have tons of huge flowers. Tree Peony require full sun and never get cut back – Tree peonies are a woody plant.

Rachel Peony

Kim Roth Byline

Medicinal Landscaping Plants Here at Christensen’s

Achillea Millifolium Paprika Red

People have been using plants as remedies for centuries. From curing the common cold to stopping bleeding, much of modern medicine is rooted in plants. Some cures come from your favorite flowers and shrubs in your landscape. For me, herbal medicine started simply, by using dead nettles and jewelweed poultices to treat poison ivy. When I was dealing with health issues I wasn't able to treat entirely with traditional medicines, this is where I turned. I learned that mint and ginger teas could help soothe an upset stomach, or that a salve of common mugworts would do wonders for inflammation and pain after chiropractic adjustments. Treatments for everyday ailments like a sore throat or arthritis can be as close as your backyard. It should be noted that before taking any plant consistently or for medical treatment, you should consult your doctor.

Echinacea PowWow Wildberry

Purple Coneflower
Echinacea purpurea
Parts used: roots and rhizomes

Most commonly Echinacea is taken for colds and other infections. Its polysaccharides help stimulate your white T cells which help you adapt to and fight off infections. Echinacea is filled with alkaloids and antioxidants that give it anti-inflammatory and antifungal properties. These same antioxidants and properties make it incredibly useful in skincare. It’s often taken as a tea, tincture, or as an over-the-counter supplement.

Anise Hyssop
Agastache foeniculum
Parts used: leaves

The dried leaves have great antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. A hot tea can help with congestion, acting as an expectorant, and can induce sweating to help break a fever. A cold infusion of this tea can help soothe chest pains from coughing. The plant is filled with antioxidants and polyphenols that help fight off and prevent illnesses. A poultice can be used to treat burns and other skin conditions due to its aforementioned properties.

Common Barberry Admiration

Common Barberry
Berberis vulgaris
Parts used: wood and stem bark

The bark of barberry contains tannins and a phytonutrient called berberine that gives it its medicinal benefits. Berberine can decrease intracellular calcium. This helps with arrhythmia, decreases blood pressure and is an anticoagulant, all of this makes it great for many heart conditions. Its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties make it a common component in many eye washes.

Achillea New Vintage Violet

Yarrow
Achillea millefolium
Parts used: Herb

A poultice of its leaves can be applied to a wound to stop bleeding and help with other skin issues. Its components like apigenin and salicylic acid give it its anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic properties; this makes it great for some digestive, cardiovascular, and menstrual issues.

Again, always consult your doctor!  But if you’re looking for a multi-purpose landscape design, consider adding these plants for additional benefits to your customers. They may be surprised at how useful (not just beautiful) your landscaping can be!

Rhododendrons 101

Rhododendron Cunningham White
/ˌrōdəˈdendrən/
     noun

First of all, “Rhodys”, Azaleas, and ‘PJMs’ are all the same!!! They are all officially part of the rhododendron genus. They are one of our most popular stars of spring. All of those stocked at Christensen’s are Broadleaf Evergreens, flower in the spring, stay leafed out all year, and start the process over again. (We do not stock deciduous Azaleas anymore but if you need them, we will get you some.)

'Boursault' Rhododendron

Those most commonly recognized as “Large Leaf” Rhododendron can be monsters in their natural habitat, the Mid Atlantic. They do not actually have a final height or width as they will continue to grow and grow. I have seen massive ones traveling through Pennsylvania (it’s kinda hard to tell the exact size at 80MPH!). The cultivars that we sell here are some of the hardiest. We stick to H1 hybrids (H1=hardy to -25°F, occasionally a few H2’s arrive and they are hardy to -15°F, after that, we shy away!). ‘Edith Bosely’ is one of my favorites with a deep purple flower. 

I also like ‘Boursault’, again another purple flower (heading towards pink). ‘Boursault’ is a Rhododendron catawbiense hybrid and is short. It will reach 5-6’ max. Both are those hardier H1 hybrids.

  'Karen'                                  'Rosebud Double Light Pink'                            'Hino Crimson 

All Azaleas are Rhododendron… But not all Rhododendron are Azaleas. And, what would spring be without them? My favorite here is not your favorite (I can tell!!). ‘Elsie Lee’ is mine with huge purple trusses. The plant will reach 4-5’. Your favorites, based on sales, are ‘Karen” (Lavender, 3-4’), ‘Rosebud’ (small plant 2-4’ with pink flowers), and ‘Hino Crimson’ (2-4’ with deep red flowers). Oh yeah, you guys like ‘Stewartstonians’ also (4-5’ with deep red flowers).

(Sometimes I do question your tastes!!)

'Elsie Lee' Azalea

'PJM Elite' Rhododendron

Last on my list of Rhododendrons is the small-leafed “PJM”. ( FYI: PJM is a series developed by Peter J. Mezitt and his son in the 1930s to be exceptionally winter hardy.) They are getting very hard to find. Sometimes we get ‘PJM’, ‘PJM Elite’, or ‘PJM Regal’. They are all very similar and can work interchangeably. All have the same ‘PJM’ flowers and will reach 3-5’.

'Hino Crimson' Azalea

All Rhododendrons are planted for those flowers. I hear complaints about “Rhodies” not doing well after the first year or not flowering well after the first year. I am here to tell you WHY!!! Those great big, huge, long blooming flowers drain the plant of any strength it had! Not only will keeping your “Rhodo’s” well-fed produce more flowers, but it will help the plant with overwintering. Giving it strength to maintain those flower buds all winter long until WOW! Speaking of which – Remember “Rhodo’s” produce the flower buds just after blooming this year. If you need to prune your “Rhodies”, do so just after they flower.

One last note about Rhododendrons. They like very acidic soils. Top dressing them with peat a couple times a year will not only help to acidify the soil but by acidifying the soil the plant is able to take up more nutrients, therefore more flowers!! WIN-WIN.

Gotta go and find more ‘PJM’s’ and probably ‘Stewartstonians”! 

'Edith Bosley'

Kim Roth Byline

A Total Eclipse of a Plant

Just in case you haven’t heard about it, today is the day of the 2024 Total Solar Eclipse. We would like to think that our newsletter is so good that you feel it’s the only source of information you need, but that would mean you are just now finding out it is going to get dark this afternoon! Our main customer base is not in the arc of totality. I believe we are only going to hit 97%. So, for us, it’s mostly been business as usual. A couple of weeks ago, I heard that some of our customers are expecting an influx of people into their area of up to 2 million! There have been a lot of recommendations in the news on how to best enjoy this rare event in our area. I hope that you make the best of it. 

But since we’re in the business of plants, I’d like to ask you…
What would you consider a “Total Eclipse of a Plant?”

Many traditional shade genera have eclipsed themselves and have added sunbathing to their abilities. (Would we consider that a lunar eclipse of a plant?) Hosta have been a staple in the shade garden for years but nowadays you can put them in the sun! This means that the bed that goes along the house (typically in shade) and out to a point in the yard (typically full sun) can have matching plants in both the  sun and shade! As a rule, green, chartreuse, or golden-leaved varieties tolerate the sun better than the blue or white variations. Choose favorites like August Moon, Guacamole, Patriot, Paul’s Glory, Stained Glass and Sum & Substance. Hostas, like Astilbe, Heuchera, Hellebore’s, and other shady plants that can tolerate the sun, do require more watering if placed in a sunny location.

Solenia & Double Delight Begonias Proven Winners

In the ever-changing annual market, they have bred for sun tolerance in Begonias. In recent years, Proven Winners has brought on the Double Delight and the Solenia Begonias. Both series are recommended for sun to part sun. They aren’t recommended for shade at all!

But my question is, “Why?”  So many plants are sun tolerant already.  Shade varieties are the minority and need to be sought out for troublesome spots in the landscaping.  Where are the shade-tolerant Coneflowers? How about a good tall shade-loving Ornamental Grass? Why are we breeding (in my opinion) in the wrong direction?

David Austin Emily Bronte Rose

On the other side of the moon, are there sunny plants eclipsing themselves by taking some shade? Who is trying to bring the bright colors of roses into the dark corners of the garden? David Austin, that's who. His English rose collections have some full sun roses that will take shadier locations. Some of Dave’s roses only need 4-5 hours of sun. Ironically, one of them is called “Bring Me Sunshine”.  They are a step in the right direction of bringing more plants over to the shady side. 

Now, that’s what I call a total eclipse of a plant!

Looking for more options to keep continuity between sun and shade? Check out our resources on the website or give us a call. We are happy to help!

Marci McIntosh